Dogsfevr

The groomer should be checking her anal glands but seriously you need to address the poo eating as long term you will have big issues

We have a set price starting at $44 but the price varies on coat condition,regular bookings,type of groom(bichon in a show trim etc) etc etc. Personally for $60 i would want the rolls royce of clips. generally the clips are clip offs or a good traditional breed trim thats suitable for pet life. A tidy often ends up being a full groom,if we are to do a head/tail & nails then the dog must be brought in knot free & spotlessly clean as owners will soon take advatage,you must set the rules from day 1 ie/top/tail means this otherwise full charge etc etc. For some giant breeds we charge $44 because they have been easier & taken less time than a matted maltese & the wear & tear on the equip was less for the first so it really comes down to having a good regular clientele & playing with the prices. If your GSt registered then work that into your price . You must set a reasonable basic price

The first part will certainly be supplied by the breeder in there puppy pack as breeders can use different vaccs . As to the desexing many breeders now will desex prior to leaving or it will be in the contract. If you are thinking of breeding you will have to find a breeder who is willing to be helpful. Many breeders will not just sell dogs for breeding purposes due to the lastest fads in DD poor breeding choices & the fact there prefix is attached to the dog when things go wrong. Buying a dog & keeping it entire means having a good relationship with the breeder who can assist in what lines are compatable with the dogs as you dont just put a/b together. Do you plan to show,trial,sled or work the dogs?or just maybe have a litter? Quite a few of the mal breeders do desex there pups before they go .

we have always used roseline & wahl for daily grooming & on the showdogs although we do have seperate scissors the shaping etc the showdogs. The thing with scissors is the comfort,feel etc

I would feed am but you also need to remember when a dog has been outside for so long it can go to the loo when it pleases so in reality the routine is normal to the dog,now the dog is learning to break that routine & letting you now is good toilet training

I often think the problem is people think obedience is a social playtime for the dogs,they dont appreciate the talk & when you get the few that think they now it all they wonder off . You will never satisfy everyone but aslong as 99% of the class is learning/listening you are doing well. We have trained junior handlers in the past & whilst obviously there is a different age group,we did out of our own pocket hand out treats or print off a home made certificate/s to the keenest listerner,those with trouble dogs succeeding,a small pack of smackos,we would go to good sammies & get a bag of good teddies & hand them out,you would be surprised how adults/kids get chuffed at being noticed & i believe for many people they sometimes feel invisible.We may not do it every week but it does make people a tad competive. I mean i now it sounds stupid but do the people in you class now each other,there dogs names??People feel more at home when they now each other.

Cockers are gundogs so by nature are very mouthy breeds.Its important that any game you play doesnt encourgae the dog to be mouthy,when the dog gets over the top divert the behaviour,use it as a training moment. The dog snapping back is being dominate & depending on your reaction the dog has won so it has achieved nothing. I have setters,they will carry my hand around but there are boundries ,i dont have an issue with it but they also now the word gentle & if they try & go overboard that when i change the play to something that stops the behaviour & i come out the winner,it can be a very simple thing .Just be patient,when pup is rough be calm calmly say gentle if it doesnt respond walk away

yep had dog with P/C. It can be a killer as the pain is so bad.Attacks can occur again especially if stressed,diet is so important. Recovery can vary from very quickly to a month or more with plenty of good/bad days inbetween. Our dog lived a full life but we had to watch any food intake like a hawk the most trival thing can set it off

The problem often is people make a big deal of the pup from day1,they carry it around baby it & create an insecure feeling.When it whines everyone jumps. Obviously you have to be attentive to noises & its important to listen to the noises & understand which one goes with what.Our dogs have a distinct noise for toilets,alerting & the a general whine that doesnt get a response. English cockers can be very clingy & whinge alot but its very important to ignore but do so with feeling. When you feed do you leave the food down if he follows?? Leaving for short times is a start & its very important not to make a big deal when you return,go out & walk into the house ignoring the pup,you also must leave in a very confidient positive fashion. Some dogs dont cope well when leaving there home & now this pup is looking at the people for pack leadership,you at present have become its mum & as such you need to think like a dog not a human. The key here is do all things in small baby steps but keep with it you must win the battle no matter how small it is so the dog knows all is well. Things will settle just be consistant with a routine & dont react to all noises

We too have used metacam & alot of the dogs in boarding are on it too & none of the dogs have had reactions but it is a drug & there will always be the few dogs that react. We are using it on a dog now that natural alternatives no longer work. How do you now its an overdose??

The fleas will be an issue,flea bites are like having chicken pox .You need to flea bomb the house & treat your yard & then keep the dog on same preventative. Dogs can get dandruff & it gets worse in times of stress(flea bites are stressful) diet can also create itching issues & poor skin

Check the gov laws but lure coursing wasnt allowed due to a TAB issue.May have changed since

Does it swim in damms or estate water holes??

Sept i live in perth ,may i ask where you are situated in regards to the parvo cases? I ask from a boarding kennel point of view.

I would be asking the vet if there is any connection with the pups with parvo.Personnally i would be avoiding the park if parvo is that bad in the area at present .The park is where many unvaccinated dogs roam plus alot of dog faeces which is the issue. Even after his 12 week vacc they will suggest 10 days before doing heavy duty outside actitivities.

Rugerfly very easily,i am the pack leader not the dogs all are equal,no one gets preference . I have setters & mini schnauzers. We have 6 males that run together & 4 are stud dogs .Plus the females . The dogs here dont sort anything its simply one rule for all & in over 24 plus years no troubles at all & the dogs are very social here & in the outside world In that time we also had greys,GSD &the same rules applied

Any breed may be suitable but you as the owner makes or breaks a dogs nature.If you dont put the training or effort in even the most stable breed may not be suitable.

You need to interfere when it gets over the top its not as simple as saying "let them go for it". In our house all the dogs are equal & we have no issues at all but when a new baby is allowed to jointhe pack we do so carefully,some will try the strut about stuff which we do not allow,the main issue is simply rough play that the pup isnt able to stand up too . The bitch needs to understand the pup is no threat but you cant let her get away with it.Both dogs must be equal in your eye & you are the pack leader.Whilst the older dog will try to be the pack leader you must also as the owner set the rules whilst he is young & not hormonal or inclined to react & she must learn that she isnt the queen bee.

Im sorry to sound harsh but what did you expect??You seriously didnt think a 12 week old & mature adult could just be left out to play together .It will be atleast 6 months before you can fully trust harsh playtime .At this stage its simply a case of putting yourself out & allowing for small play sessions until the pup is old enough & not so fragile to romp around

Depends on the brand,the strength & the type.I use it here every day on my large dogs & follow the directions on the product . I use the powder

Bikle its up to you but many vets have started on the puppy preschool fad because it is extra dollars especially when your not getting a qualified person taking the classes. Any person could run PP but if the intercation is done wrong & the instructor isnt able to intervene & assist then yes your $50 is wasted. Most classes are up to 10 dogs so thats $500 for 4 weeks so they do make money as the product donated is the product that vets sells which may not be what your breeder has recommend.Some vets solely promote a certain brand & willpush that at these classes but if it isnt what your breeder suggested it isnt much value to you. I would be wanting to now what the qualifactions are of the instructor etc etc PP is about teaching you how to let your puppy socialize ,how to read body language etc etc,if the instructor hasnt a clue then what will you learn. As i said KC is very bad at present in perth & quite a few vets have cancelled there classes due to the risk to puppies. I would phone your vet up as an enquiry & see how many cases they have seen. In the end its solely up to you.

If the vet has seen 2 cases of parvo i wouldnt be taking my pup & would be very cautious of the subarian area at present. As to puppy preschool in perth,canine cough is going around badly at present & i wouldnt be going to the vets unless it was an emergency & even for vaccs i would leave dog in car until your turn. Some vets have actually cancelled there PP at present because of the canine cough issue at present. Most PP arent run by the vets but vet staff some PP trainers are not qualified & can cause more issues than good .It has become a business opportunity for many vets but they dont give you a qualified trainer.

Yep the coat keeps growing .If these owners intend not to clip then its very selfish on there behalf,probaly dont want to spend money on grooming & the dog pays the ultimate prive

I would scrape that diet alltogether. Pal puppy is great for small breeds & The intetional eating stage but once able to eat well we no longer use it.The milk is of no use. The pal puppy would also cost a fortune. I would get a good biscuit & use lamb flaps,frames,knecks,mutton etc. My large breed babaies ate far more than now. As a rule of thumb providing they are fully wormed the dog shouldnt be popping out more than it eats nor should it be overweight but if the diet isnt suitable it can affect adult condition

Rememeber one thing there are owners who are home all day & the dogs spend all there life outside,get no social activities,no compainship time . It seems people think because you work & want a dog your irresponsable especially if you want a pup. Older dogs from rescue can be just as much work as a puppy so i dont see that as an arguement for someones situation & there is nothing wrong with someone wanting a pup to train there way & enjoy it from 8 weeks to old age. As a groomer i can tell you now the worst owners for not brushing or training there dogs are the ones home all day