Dogsfevr

If hes toileting in the house its simply because your not watching for the signs or allowing thim o show the signs & waiting to long before reacting. Do you have a doggy door or is the door open for outside access??If he has access outside you need to allow him to walk the access path & take him to a desired area & basically keep watching & waiting. For me i would place pup on the lead & give a key word"Toilets"etc when done lots of praise. I find by placing pup on lead they dont get distracted & go off playing instead having to focus & your there. You must continously show pup the door access even if it doesnt want to go NEVER CARRY,it needs to learn the access ,a puppy will genearlly have a wee each time taken out & once it understands the door to outside it will go out on its own but still persist with the training even after its got it . Feeding as already said be firm ,give less meat ,it also may be teething & often the bikkies are a tad tougher on its teeth but the main thing is it no longer has competition for food so you now need to be the replacement,if it doesnt eat in set time remove & dont give the pup any scrapes,treats etc if it isnt eating its proper meal. There are certainly things you can add but pup needs to get into a routine on the breeders diet first & then contact the breder for maybe alternatives but adding things like tuna in oil ,natural yoghurt cant hurt. Training does start from day 1 but your expectactions need to be realistic,pup has gone from an environment it new & trusted to a new house,new people no freinds ,different voise tones & owners that arent sure.Basic training is a must but it needs to conquer the basics first .dont confuse the pup with trival areas. Puppy biting i agree dont wave finger its jjust encouraging it & ithasnt a clue why the finger is being pointed, agood firm no with eye contact is simple enough

Doesnt the OH do any training??It sounds like you are doing all the work of training whilst OH is doing nothing?? Training 2 pups can be easy but for starters they have to squeal a little to learn alot more. Pups will cry chuck a tainty but you need to ignore that at times for pup to learn. We have showdogs,they all learan crate training & they all learn to wait there turn some will chuck a stink at first but they soon learn that behaving badly gets them no where & they will always get there turn but they never get let out whilst performing,only when there quiet wwith big rewards for being good. You need to perserve with independant crate time & training & it sounds like the OH needs to do more o help training time together can be just as rewarding & an opportunity for you to learn the pups identities etc

Ross hasnt retired as such but has gone back to his passion of genetics in horses. We also use Applecross but will only see either Ian or Peter unless we have an emergency when there not on. Many people use George & we have way back when,i believe people take a strange view to him because he is old fashioned & tries things that are different which i think is great in a vet. The vets we use are also very open to the basics or alternatives (like natural,bowen etc)when we discuss areas.For me i prefer vets who are down to earth & not just into drugs for answers.

Yes irish are much softer & generally submissive in rough play.Irish babies arent normally rough like many breeds & just thrive on following people or other dogs which for some can be annoying alone.They are very clumsy babies even once older. I too wouldnt muzzle because the dog doesnt now what its getting muzzled for except associating the muzzle with the irish. I would spend more time in doing small walks together & rewarding,i would monitor play time & where possible get in before anything happens & rewarding both dogs for being good,let playtime end on a high. You also may find your dobe girl is going thorugh the 9 month puberty stage,trying to establish herself as the queen bee

Arthritis can occur at any age just like humans,a previous injury can contribute to arthritis . Personally i would have been at the vet sooner than later but we also use a chiro or bowen on our dogs. You may find the dog has a sore spot & due to the size it makes it harder for her to get up. My large breeds have bowen every month plus i use Glucomosine etc & ensure they keep active. What you need to remeber is in giant breeds getting up with an injury etc causes stress on the other limbs so its important to sort out any issues sooner plus with winter coming on it may only get worse. Expense is part of owning a dog but if you want your dog for the next 8 yrs to be as healthy as possible then you need to sort the problem out now

A sibe & a maltese should never be left together & it isnt the sibes fault its plays rough nor is it the malts,more a case of 2 entirely different breeds,needs & age groups. Muzzling will teach it nothing & most importantky its punishing the pup for doing nothing wrong. Probably not the best combo of breeds ,i would suggest you have a time out area set up for the maltese because even if the sibe starts to play gentler it wont be gentle enough for a malt & you may find trouble down the track if both try to challenge each other so having sepearte areas for the life of the too will be a safe measure

Totally agree with Fifi,vets should be your first visit especially during business hrs. The de gas is very specific not something you just give. If the dog has started bloating the de gas is useless ,we carry the de gas for country shows etc to use as a precious saver on the way to the vet but as yet we have never used it. Also there is one main ingredient that makes de gas important you get the wrong brand & it wont be helpful

Dogs are no different to us,if someone suddenly comes along & grabs our food we react difference is we can talk they can growl. As said the dog needs to be taught that taking food away isnt a drama. Personally i would never growl at a pup they way you did & especially not hit it,You taught it nothing in that moment except confusion. Often when people grab dogs food they give no warning just bend down & grab,the dog is startled or doesnt understand so it reacts. You need to spend time giving & taking food & making it fun & rewarding

Yep we keep the de gas here too but if we have the slighest incling of bloat where off to the vet as the earlier caught the better the chances of survival & hopefully no surgery just tubing

Myabe make the OH read here.Sadly he has to understand that the novelty will wear off when the dog gets out of hand with rough house play it will also teach the dog its acceptable play & when it does it with a child who is to blame. Your OH needs to realize this is a family dog with young children around . The dog is like your 2 year old,competing for attention & a sponge for learning & its at a crucial age for consistantly in its daily routine. Until basic house rules are set the dog will get no better,that means house rules for both adults. A dog with no manners is no joy at all.

Remember dont confuse him with too much. Whilst he may sit/drop now it doesnt mean he will do so in 3-4 weeks time. It is important to make sure pup nows & does consistaantly well one command. I believe the most important is come & this age is great for it plus sit. Fetch incorparates it & sitting on return also keeps it up to date. teaching the dog to sit before feeding,sit before getting in the car,sit at he edge of the road. With our pups we will sit out the front where the distractions are(people,cars,bikes,lawn mowers etc) on a long lead & teach come.In the comfort of the house or backyard they will do anything get them out with distractions & whole new world.

I walk 2 large dogs.They walk out infront & mild pulling i dont mind as long as when i ask a command they respond. The walk is have there time & half mine.They can be looney when i say so. I dont stop for any pee walks as theres no need for it & it just teaches them peeing up anything is OK by me & then it becomes a habit every walk. If a dog walks pat i generally just stop allow the dogs to go past with no fuss & of i go as most of the other dogs go troppo at mine. As mine are showdogs they now how to behave on a lead very well so its basically a case of what the scenario is as to whats acceptable

Im with Nekhbet,when i walk the dogs dont pee up everything & i dont allow it. When you allow the dog to wee up everything you are approving the behvaiour. I allow my boys to wee on trees & only when i give the word toilets. We get clients who drop there dogs off & allow them to wee up every post,the car,BBQ or anything else .The dogs are dirty & do pee in the house & they wonder why.Toilet training also means out in public too

Agree several litters??? Personally thryoid treatment isnt that expensive but can answer many questions. At present she sounds obese which will be more harm long term & if it is thryoid no amount of quality dieting will work. Get the test done & see if she actually has a problem,she may also have some other health issue which doesnt affect her in many ways but weight is a side effect

If you have had no issues then dont worry,otherwise ask the vet what brands are suppose to be the problem,what exactly did they cause etc & ask if the issues are any greater than the products they sell .That is what we do these days if we happen to get a vet that says the things this one has said.We say show us the facts I am all ears for realistic product warnings but find most vets just want to scare & push they yearly jab which has had far too many issues & the monthly stuff which needs to be suited to the breed in question. e for many years used the daily tabs until numbers wise the ivermec liquid was better but our breeds can tolerate it. It sounds like your happy with what your using & so be confidient unless the vet can show you good reason to change

It does smell great & the chicken is human stuff LOL but works a treat for the few days needed to settle a sad tummy

If it was one of ours with upset tummy & little out of works we would cook up chicken & potatoes(some use pumpkin)we dont use rice as we find our dogs react to it. I would give her that for a few days & slowly add some dry food & slowly change from there

Agree worns & the vacc can knock around a young pup.I would also stop the milk until the stools are firm. Also agree with the comment stick to the diet recommend or one brand. Greys get stressed quite easily so dont panic to much or over fuss even though its a baby be confidient & the pup will adapt too.Remember 6weeks is an age where it is still relying on its mum for confidience,it now has no one & is very young so it will take longer

For starters you vet is telling you alot of B******.They obviously only want you to buy from them which is very poor. Did the vet suggest a brand suitable for the sheltie,i believe they can react to heartworm meds so picking the right brand is very important & something the vet should have stressed more. I suggest you contact the sheltie club & ask there advice. There is nothing wrong with friskies/excelept at all & infact the excelepet flea liquadator works far better than frontline etc from our clients point of view with no reactions at all. We have used both the names above worm tablets for over 25 yrs plus other brands with no problems it just means the vets arent getting business Many vets only want you to use monthly so you buy from them only its a good business racket.

Very few kennels i now of use tins,it isnt cheaper at all . You will find good kennels feed better foods than what alot of dogs get at home & go home in better condition than what they came.

A good kennel will feed whatever you provide,it does come under the "special diet" label. Aslong as its clearly labelled & a detailed sheet is provide then a kennel should have no issues with given the dog the diet requested. What many barf feeders do is have a comprimise diet they use when away . Many dogs have different diets due to health,reactions etc etc so special diets shouldnt be an isue for a kennel that is dog minded

Firstly you would want to find out if theres any medical reason for heavy tears,after that its purely daily hygiene around the eyes.We get clients who want the dog to go home white & stain free & as we say we can do our part but they have to do the daily stuff.We wont apply anything for a quick fix. Just like my white showdog if i dont maintain the urine areas he will stain & go yellow its done to daily maintaince

Pre show groom 2.5 hrs each,show baths 1.2-2 hrs. I never brush unless its a full bath as you do pull out coat,i pee feather wash nightly & full bath 2-3 times

Im not a supercoat fan but thats me. I would scrape the rice,puppy alphabets(total waste of money),puppy porridgedinosaur bone chicken frames,mutton flaps are more useful plus the raw meats etc I use natural yoghurt & give tuna once a week,no eggs as our dogs throw them up

What exactly are you wanting to do & with what breed??