alpha bet

Asking for the 'best' trainer!...... perhaps you need to reword... just find out who operates in Newcastle Then either: Ring and chat to find out what they offer and see if this suits. Go and watch how things operate at the club etc.... You can get a good feel then make your own decisions about what would suit you, rather than just getting online recommendations as these do not know you.

Just remember there are 8 strains of KC and only two are covered under the vaccines..... By Jean Dodds the vaccine only lasts 6 months.... Have run a boarding kennel for 20 years and not had any kennel cough (touch wood) - my own dogs don't have the KC vaccinations. no need to panic unless you have a dog who is unwell and his immune levels are low.... Let your dogs have their normal fun and frolic..... keeping them robust and healthy is more important than worrying about a bit of a cough.

Anyone else received an email about a new feed for StemCell Nutrition? They are having a launch in September and from what they are saying it all seems a little odd..... talks about the stem cells being released into the bone marrow hence helping out the organ and tissue function......!!!!! Thoughts anyone?

When Councils set up off leash dog parks.... it would make sense to place a LARGE sign at the entrance with some guidelines.... Also fenced parks should have a double gate system.... creating a bit of an airlock ..... especially in smaller parks less than about an acre in size.... this would allow people to step into the airlock with their dog and allow the dogs inside to come over and sniff each other thru the fence .... helps to settle before you let them in together. Also off leash parks should not have seating so that people keep wandering around instead of sitting and ignoring their dogs. Sign should state...... NO FOOD ALLOWED IN OFF LEASH PARK TURN MOBILE PHONES OFF (To concentrate on the dog) REMOVE YOUR DOG IF EXCESSIVE ENERGY TO OTHERS NO CHILDREN UNDER 8 YEARS OF AGE CHILDREN UNDER 18 MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY ADULT DON'T FORGET TO CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG

We have to accept that there are many in the public who do not want to go to the welfare and get themselves a rescue dog but instead would like to bring a puppy into their home..... Personally I don't wish to remove this right from a family to go and get a pup of their choosing.... after all it is important for future generations of humans - remember that many now are living in big houses on small blocks and often minute landscaped gardens with fake grass..... to have a dog is often the first real contact kids have with 'mother nature'.... Lifestyles have changed in the last 30 years and families have different needs from their dog so we have to consider that there are many breeds that no longer are suitable for the average family, hence we see the small/medium sized 'OOdles' fitting the mould that might be better suited. So why do so many of these families pay big bucks to the petshops and online commercial breeders - Well I run training classes / boarding kennels and am also a breeder, so understand a great deal where many of these families are coming from. these are common senarios I have come across. 1. Perhaps they think of getting a pedigree dog and often they ring around and email breeders (often from DOL) - but no one gets back to them..... so eventually just go and look elsewhere. 2. Often families look up breeders sites online but then come across comments about having to agree to contracts etc. which sounds very complicated and at times I have looked up these contracts and been surprised at how negative they are towards the future pet owner. 3. Have met Families who have visited breeders to see pups (sometimes more than once) even thought they were getting a particular pup in the litter and then to receive an email or have it posted on facebook that they have been unsuccessful in getting a pup. Not even the good manners to ring and explain. 4. Families have contacted Dogs Vic for information and listings - however there are no pups on record and even those that are are so out of date and pups are already homed. 5. Public don't understand that it could take 3-12 months to get a pup..... 6. Families have purchased dogs from registered breeders and not received paperwork even 12 months later......!!!!! Pure Dog Breeders need to be more professional in the way we treat enquiries from the public.... we are often the first port of call and we are the ones who create the impression... For the public it is a daunting process as many of the breeders are difficult to talk to and often come across as judgemental.... Just consider some of the threads here where DOL members are very judgemental about how and who they will sell their puppies. So where else can the public get dogs if not from us.... they have to resort to petshops or online.

Bad luck there RV.... Arnt there any other babies due for August.....?

I also have a clause in my contract that any problems my puppy buyers have they are welcome to contact me to either help with solving problems, rehome or if possible I am happy to take the dog back. This is probably all that can really be expected from any breeder. Personally I don't want to be involved with the rescue groups any more than I need to - often I find them too judgemental - against breeders, against owners, against other rescues, against RSPCA, against anyone that doesnt confirm to their 'standards or ideals'.... This post just confirms this feeling......

Safe to say that all three officers should be brought forward for a "please explain" - one because he was the instigator and the female and male officer who stood by and watched the idiotic behaviour..... certainly RSPCA should be investigating.... Very unprofessional and the Federal Police should be highly embarrassed

I will get the ball rolling - We hope to have some Aussie Shep pups around 15th August.

This is a very shortsighted view - not all breeders could afford to pay to kennel someone else's dog..... heaven forbid!!!!!!! Besides the owner of the dog has a responsibility that is probably now greater than could be expected from any breeder. It is too easy in this day and age, for people to want to ignore their responsibilities for anything.... Just consider the excuses we hear (and excuse my sarcasm) ... the problems my kids have at school is not my fault it must be the school !!!! ... no its not that my kid is being a bully its just he has (add your self diagnosed disorder here) !!!!! ... the car accident wasn't my fault... the tree is planted to close to the road !!!!! ... I'm sorry your Honour but I only stole because I have a gambling debt !!!!

Dont be put off by the vets clinics ignorance... Keep ringing and asking.... the only way the vets will sit up and take notice is if they start getting many enquiries..... Perhaps they will even add a session to the Vet Courses at Uni. Sometimes with some people you have to keep hitting them with the idea before they start to realise it might be a good idea.

I'm another breeder who won't answer the survey.... just tooo many factors to take into consideration and hard to judge others without understanding their individual circumstances. As breeders we have a responsibility to: 1. Try to choose the right home i.e. the sort of home that suits the lifestyle for their breed. 2. To help educate and guide that home particularly (with general public) for the first 12 months till they have established a good connection with their dog. 3. Keep an open line of communication - so homes know they can get in touch for help, preferably without being judgemental. 4. Understand that situations can change - hence help in rehoming.... that means to either take the dog back or HELP find another home..... The above is possible for all breeders and should be the basis of what sets Pedigree Dogs apart from the BYB / Puppy Farm / Pet shop. However what I think really should happen is that we start to define what is a Breeder to the general public- confusion lies with the concept of Registered Breeder - Registered how? I would love to see Dogs Vic (ANKC) bring out a system of having "CERTIFIED BREEDERS" - This would be someone who goes above and beyond the call of duty - not a first time breeder but someone who has had 3-4 litters could apply. An assessment could be conducted to certify a breeder - new puppy owners could be given a survey to complete and send back - this could encourage buyers to continue networking with the breeder and the VCA and reporting any issues they have concerns or indeed for puppy buyers to continue to praise the services of their breeder. Perhaps a breeder should: * show they provide a comprehensive puppy pack * meet the requlations of Dogs Vic and/or Dept Primary Industry * Provide ongoing support to the families * Provide a simple Letter of Agreement between buyer and breeder * Have a system in place to help with rehoming * Have conducted health testing - individual xrays and dna that is relevant for the breed Personally I know I go well above what most breeders do - we hold an Annual Picnic and a few workshops thru the year to encourage people back - we send out xmas cards to EVERY dog EVERY year ..... and we also get back many xmas cards with photos - have now started doing a seasonal newsletter to keep families up to date on information regarding new vaccination protocols, microchipping laws, reviews on products we have used and even holiday ideas for dogs. We even have a few dogs who we take out and run little demo's in the community. Breeders also need to be encouraged to expand their ideas about what a Breeder actually is - from just having a website or attending shows and competitions.... but thinking outside the box and promoting their breed in everyday life. Pedigree dogs need to be exposed to the general public in a positive way - and this is not just at a Pet Expo where families have to pay to attend.... The breeders who make the effort should be rewarded and set up as examples for others to follow. Now I will get down off my soapbox......

Jasperwall The best advice - don't rush out and browse thru the pet supermarkets and get tempted to buy everything.... before you realise you will spend hundreds of dollars on poor purchases..... I give my puppy buyers a list of items to consider and also the brands I have found useful for my breed.... My breed is Aussie sheps so not dissimilar to your choice. So here are some ideas.... * BEST bed I have found for being robust, easy to clean and a favorite for my dogs is the BonoFido bed - available in different sizes and fairly competative in price just under $100. * BEST flat collar i found - Personalised Pet Collars (Australian Co and can order online) Cost about $30 but has great clip and strong - added bonus of embroided name and phone number on the collar.... Definate must. * Advantage Flea Treatments - I buy these online (yes from overseas) but they cost about $7 each instead of $15 from the local vet..... * Kong Frisby - expensive in the pet shops but buy online for about $12 - lasts for ages and soft on the dogs mouth - buy two..... * Dog toys from the discount store cost $3-$10 compared to $20 at Coles or Pet Supermarkets. * Stainless steel dinner bowls - I pay about $2-$3 from the discount stores get a few at once. * Short steady water bucket for indoors - deep enough to prevent splashing around your floors * Heavy metal bucket for outdoors - don't want it tipped over or chewed - I buy them from local discount store for $6-$10 each and use them in the boarding kennels. * Plastic moulded kennel - comes in two parts and clips together - easy to clean and lightweight to move - mine cost $90 from the local discount store and I place a washable mat inside. In really cold weather I place an old canvas horse rug over the top to give more warmth. * Travel Crate - Soft Sided and folds down when needed - can use as a mobile bed so very useful. Careful what brand as some have poor quality zips that break easily - I found some from an Australian Company and they are terrific and available thru mail order - brand K9+ Crates That gives you all the basics at a reasonable price and then you may have items you need as you go..... Good luck with your new dog - smooth collies are terrific.

Steppenwolf Yes the Progesterone is a guide - but a pretty good guide. Have attached a chart if you are interested. Personally have bred some bitches when they have had readings from about 16nmol/L onwards up to about 40nmol/L - am still compiling this info with regard to litter numbers etc. The objective is so I have a better understanding and perhaps a better predictability.... hopefully. Also I am lucky to have a vet nearby who does their prog testing in house, so we can get results in about 2 hours. If your vet sends them out then timing could mean you are 24 hours before you have results which can be crucial at times. You will see that levels are given and then an Estimated time for breeding depending on the level.... Not precise as they give a couple of days. Hope you find this useful. ProgesteroneLevels.pdf

To go back to the Original Post - Personally feel there is a trend for many of the show lines to be presented - in not ideal condition - perhaps it is not just overweight but without the muscle tone to really enhance the individual dog. However this could be said for most of the much loved pet dogs we see in peoples homes..... Certainly with breeds like the OP's query the Labrador there are concerns that a show as high as the Westminster Show would be rewarded a dog who does not show the overall balance one would expect from this breed. A labrador is after all meant to be a working gun dog.... perhaps not to run all day but have the strength and agility to walk across the fields for a few hours, leap into water and swim to retreive and then stand ready for the next task.... Aussielover - mentioned that she is not sure what is happening in the Aussie show ring - I don't enjoy nor do I have the time to show but as a breeder I try to keep in touch with what is happening and what young dogs are coming thru, so attend the occassional show and generaly Vic Aussie Speciality every year to see what is around. At the 2013 Speciality they had an American Judge Nannette Newbury - and was very impressed with her judging....plonked myself down where I could hear her record her critique on the all the placing. I was not surprised that she actually mentioned many times that some of the dogs were shown overweight and not in working condition. Quite a few of these were from the better known names on the Aussie Show Scene.... they are a working dog and should be lean and muscled, some just carry too much condition perhaps from spending hours in crates and pens instead of wandering around the Ranch as was intended. Someone else mentioned that it would be interesting to have a machine to measure the dogs. Well in fact you can - If you search - many of the breeds do give measurement ratios..... height/width/length, head ratios, weight ranges and even angles of shoulders and croup. - There are even some breeds who conduct official surveys and the GSD is the one I had experience with when I bred dogs in the 80's - I assume the club still runs it currently. They produced an annual Survey book which was every breeders bible when it came to researching dogs of interest, not only for a sire you liked but also to look up the offspring to see how they stacked up to the standard.... especially for information on bite and detention. It is interesting to look back at the quality of the GSD back in the 80's and see strong bone and toplines and hocks without such the exaggerations also very uniform in size and type - Nowdays see many males who would tower over these previous dogs and bone as huge as my foream..... very loose hocks and often movement that paddles instead of glide. So what can breeders do to improve - Have started conducting my own Survey on the Aussie Shepherds that I have bred = I have brought the calipers and measuring sticks and started recording the measurements for dogs I have bred and have been very surprised at the results.... firstly it is easier to do than I thought and with some of the dogs I thought were too big and rangy have proven to still fit within the ratios, same with ones that I thought might be too small.... I wish my breed club could bring out a survey system for Aussies like they have for the GSD would be invaluable to have a more detached result as well as an official data base for hip/elbow and dna results. Oh well I can dream......

Personally feel that the limited register is often abused by members..... I have even heard of stud dog owners who insist that only a max number (e.g. 2) pups from a litter from their dog may be put on main register - the reality is this is potentially limiting the pool of dogs for a breeder to go on with. I certainly think it would be worth breeders having to state on the form as to why they are choosing to put a pup on the limited register. Can understand Dogs Qld looking into restricting the use.....However there are many factors that account for dropping numbers and really the ANKC groups should be reviewing their format every decade or so... they need to get more up to speed with the world around them rather than living in the 'Days 'O' Olde'..... Consider the following in this day and age..... ....Registers still insist on using titles such as Mr/Mrs/Miss on ALL the paperwork - which is soooo old school and somewhat sexist - nowdays most businesses use a first and last name ....Dogs Vic don't even have the ability for members to pay membership etc via netbank system - Still require CHEQUES which involves more handling or credit cards which costs bank fees. ....Members have no way to access any Registration data base to check breed prefix/hip and elbow scores etc, nor do the public even have access to find out if a breeder is in fact a registered breeder. ....Public have no access to find out current pups available thru registered breeders as litters arent shown on the magazine until they are 3 months old and hence already sold. Just my thoughts.

Actually most of the repro reports I have read - ovulation is not as precise as just one day.... generally it is accepted that ovulation can happen for perhaps 24-72 hours - hence gives some more variation to predicting whelping dates. Bitches can be very individual - from my own litters and ones I have helped - some bitches have very specific dates from mating - 2 bitches had 4 litters each all 58 days from 1st mating - 1 bitch has had 3 litters at 60 days from 1st mating - 2 have had 3 and 4 litters at 61 days - 7 have had some variety from 58-61 days from 1st mating. In the last 5 years we have done the progesterone tests where some of the bitches had fresh AI some had fresh AI + live mating - Prior to this we used to mate when the dog and bitch showed interest and usually 2 matings 24 hours apart. Can't say we feel there is much difference between fresh AI or live mating.... Generally nowdays I like to get an AI and then 24 hours later a live mating if possible...... just makes me feel more comfortable for good chance of good numbers.... Number of pups varied but it did seem that some bitches were prone to higher numbers and others to smaller - difficult to predict really - nor does there seem to be much to predict whether we get males or females or what colours....... so we still have to accept what nature provides......

To answer that question is not easy online as really you have to see how it works to really understand : However we have many dogs in our Adult Classes who start out with very poor focus on their handlers - but given the opportunity to mix off lead and relax with other dogs then they become interested in the activities. Amazing how quickly new dogs start to try new things when they have the chance to watch, they often want to copy the other dogs.... Also handlers have to learn to try different approaches to get the dogs attention, this is sometimes frustrating but, once the handlers get some success then they are usually very eager to try more. One thing we find helpful is that we set up a small obsticle course (mainly with jumps and ramps) as people start moving around the arena the dogs follow and then the handler can begin directing their dog over jumps - dogs love this activity and once you start adding a few treats amazing how quickly dogs start to look to their people for the next thing. Another thing we focus on is some quick easy tricks - 30 seconds is all you need - reward and then be prepared to let the dog wander off again - when he wanders back then another quick trick. The objective is to build from 30 sec focus and then double it and double it and double it - before you know you have a dog who can focus on a 3 minute stay.... IN A GROUP and OFF LEAD. Consider the Photo from my previous post - Dog's Stay on the table - the two dogs on the left are dogs who were rescued at about 18 months old and both of these dogs had high distraction but are now highly focused on working. One is an aussie the other is a bordercollieXhuskie. The aussie sitting on the stool was a 3yo dog who had a severe dog aggression problem when she was re-homed 6 months ago she is now much more pleasant around other dogs. Dogs don't need to be genetically driven for food.... Focus is something dogs and humans can learn to improve but for many it is about finding how to make learning more fun. People and Dogs who enjoy their time together enjoy learning together. Creating foundation training from a pup is of course great but it can also backfire if done incorrectly which is very common when we see even on DOL the number of people who have problems with normal behaviour such as DA, not coming when called etc. - Many dogs get bored with constantly drilling exercises and it is common to see dog aggression problems develop because the handlers try to restrict a dog from any social contact. This is even the case with some experienced obedience handlers. Often 'traditional' ideas of what should work - stand in the way of people trying something different.....

I remember back in late 80's the VCA (Dogs Vic) started talking about introducing a Pet System for registration - at that point many of the breeders used to just write Pet Only in big letters on the registration papers. In 1994 I had a litter of JRT's - the litter registration form in my file has allowance for marking a pup as Limited Register - so suspect it might have been more in 1993-94. However back then breeders tended to register most of the pups on the main register unless there was a specific reason to restrict the dog for breed or show. Usually if too small or wrong colours or some major fault was obvious.

Aliwake and Natszar - You asked questions about Kennel Cough.... Here is the link to the Guru of work on vaccinations for dogs: http://www.hemopet.org/education/jean-dodds-veterinarian.html A few points to know about kennel cough. * There are 8 known types of kennel cough and there is vaccinations for two types.... hence why sometimes dogs might get KC even when vaccinated...... * Also the KC vaccination has a life of about 6 months not 12 as most Australian Vets seem to quote. * Kennel Cough is not life threatening and requires no treatment except perhaps a bit of peace and quiet. It is only if the dog gets a secondary infection that medications are required. Dogs who are stressed seem more prone to KC which is why often dogs can go into kennels (especially in very small cramped situations) this can be more stressful. Older dogs, pups and dogs who are unwell are more prone to KC. So you will find places Rescue Kennels have loads of stressed dogs coming in and much higher risk. It is almost impossible to sanitise a kennel to prevent KC no matter how many chemicals you throw at it - You can have 10 dogs and 1 gets KC and no others, but then next doors dog can catch it.... Very individual. As I said we have not had any KC in our boarding facilities to date (doesn't mean we won't - just we try to create an environment to reduce the risk). Things we do that we believe reduce the risk.... this is not scientific just experience. We don't use chemicals - these can irritate the nasal passages of the dog and make them more susceptible (if it smells bad to us imagine how the dog feels). Instead we use a blower and pressure wash when needed. We don't wash pens with the dogs in the pen - they go out in the paddock so don't have to deal with any stress from us hosing. We have large pens 18sqm that are well ventilated with deciduous trees that allows lots of natural light. Small Kennel blocks with only about 10-15 dogs in each, hence reduces stress. Plenty of large paddocks that allow dogs the chance to get out and run around - relax and make friends..... ideally a few hours a day in paddocks weather permitting Minimal handling creates less stress - we have myself and one staff member and sometimes a school kid doing work experience - we have laneways set up so the dogs just follow us to paddocks and we don't need to put them on leads or try to catch them - dogs get to know us and relax in our company. Large Kennels don't have these options but there are plenty of smaller kennels now offering less stress environments. As far as conducting some of your own rescue, chances are if your dog is happy and relaxed at home you will find she is not likely to be at risk.... the risk is more to the dog coming to stay..... Hope this answers some of your questions - if not you are welcome to message me

Melbie, correct....he is just a kid himself..... he doesnt need to have his bottom on the ground, just standing and waiting is fine.... Remember if you keep trying to get him to sit..... you are using energy that keeps him excited.... plus you are expecting him to do two things at once..... SIT AND RELAX Just work on Relax..... Good luck.

Cockers can be a little slow to get the message at times... some can be so enthusiastic that they don't stop and think about what is going on, they are just dashing in and pushing the game.... Not uncommon with staffies as well. Firstly you want to find a group of dog friends who are fun and fairly neutral... (I know seems difficult at times). We run these groups every week for just these problems The best thing here would be to have him around the dogs while they play but keep him on lead and make him learn how to just observe and not join in.... Ignore him, just hold the lead and if he is pulling give a tug and release... if he starts barking give a tug and release.... nagging him if needed but not getting emotional about his behavior .... don't say anything.... you need to relax and keep very low energy so he can learn to settle and be patient. Once he gives up trying to join in he will sit and watch the games.... he is learning patience..... when he has been settled for about 10 min you just unclip his lead - say nothing - and let him wander off - he will then wander over to say g'day but likely at a lower energy so he has the chance to read the dogs more. He needs to practice being patient in many different situations and then he will learn to stop and look rather than just react. Good luck.....

We operate a training school that specialises in creating social play - off lead - with multiple dogs in the class. We then incorporate exercises for the dogs to distract from the play and back to the human - this builds a working attitude to their human. We have been operating this way for nearly 18 years and work with average families and their pets. We have become more and more committed to this style of training and it has proved highly success for many different people. We have also had some who are now going off and starting to become interested in competition so can join clubs to learn the official format for Rally, Obedience, Flyball and Agility. When these dogs attend the competition clubs the instructors have moved them up from the starter grades in the first week or two to the higher levels where they can immediately start the comp training. This is purely because the dogs are happy to work for their people around other dogs. Often trainers believe you have to build a strong obedience and avoid creating an interest in other dogs. However we operate the opposite - For the first few weeks the dogs are highly distracted due to the novelty but then the dogs start to look for more things to join in. Most of the class is held off lead and the human is the one who has to learn to adapt. Breeds we have worked with beagles, poodle mixes, rotties, aussie sheps, labs, kelpies, retrievers.... just about anything really.... even a few maremma 18 months ago went to Europe and visited different clubs and breeders - was fascinated when i discovered a school who worked very much in the same format.... called The Mirror Method in Hungary..... I spent a full day with a couple of the instructors who had quite good english.... was terrific to see this done on a huge scale, they have 9 clubs throughout Hungary and one of the founders has now moved to Texas to start a school. This style of training is certainly very different to the traditional.... and we have learnt just to adapt as things go along.... If anyone knows others who work this way I would love to have their contacts. So to the Original Poster - look for many alternatives and take what works for you......

You need to consider what is the objective of doing a course of this nature.... is it just for your own interest, is it as a prerequisite to perhaps enrolling in a more qualified course or do you hope to use the certificate to get a job. If for your own interest.... then it is a lot of money and you would be better off volunteering at a animal welfare shelter where you get the hands on knowledge. Prerequisite.... ensure that the certificate would be accepted by any course you are wanting Job..... firstly what sort of job would this qualify you for..... boarding kennel, grooming salon, dog training centre, RSPCA, vet nurse... chances are if these jobs would be available without the course and on whether you know someone to introduce you or just damm luck.... Best of luck in your endeavour.

Surely people realise that the Pet Insurance premiums will start to go thru the roof. The Companies entice you in with low premiums and get you locked into the idea of having the cover then they start increasing and know that a big percentage will just keep paying. When you hear of many who say they are claiming for operations that cost $2,000 or $3,000 - where do you think the money is going to come from - The insurance company don't care about giving pet owners piece of mind, they just want to make money..... we will see more increases in cost and less items that can be claimed. Common sense, just do the maths. Nowdays with four dogs instead of paying an Insurance Company $200 or so a month - I have $2,400 to put in a bank each year.... in four years you have nearly $10,000 to deal with any major issue..... who do you think is the winner?