mita

Yes, start with the most immediate. Poodle to the vet to treat the tail bite. And keep the two dogs separate for feeding, treats & bones. There's been research on inhouse fights between dogs....& female pairs were found to figure the largest in this type of aggression. Given that aggression is a normal trait in dogs (as it is in humans), it's a question of setting the boundaries to what's acceptable via training....such as all food, treats & other good things (like pats & cuddles) have to be earned by obeying a command first. And also by managing the environment. I've had 2 shelties who lived together for nearly 14 years, who had 2 all-out, in-home brawls in that time. Because the pushy female tried to nick the others food (my fault for feeding them together). And my angelic tibbie girl....also with a glorious temperament....once flew at the same pushy sheltie girl who tried to steal her treat. Another almighty dog-fight (but I learned my lesson, again!). And I had to pluck the tibbie who was fighting like a small dragon, out of the middle. By the way, both the sheltie & the tib were purebreds, born & raised in the best of circumstances. Those isolated dog fights were a manifestation that aggression is a normal trait....& more likely inhouse between female dogs. And needed to be kept within the boundaries, via training & management. Which I did & so those isolated incidents didn't escalate in frequency.

Thank you for posting to clarify. I'm pleased about the policy opposing BSL. It will take the emphasis re dogs & safety, back to where it always should have been. On the behaviours of humans as they influence the behaviours of dogs. Taking the action towards prevention, not pursuing dog breeds.

Putting ideas in my head....of course this will stuff my saucepans! As temporary as their dogs barking I should have said that the bashing pans strategy is so the dog will learn to stop starting barking. Not just to stop after he's started. Which is why...if it works...the use of the bashing noise is only temporary.

The breed I'd love to see introduced into Australia & recognised by the AKC would be the Damchi, a breed much loved in Bhutan. Presently the Damchi is not recognised by any Kennel Association. This small breed is similar to the Tibetan Spaniel only larger. The former King of Bhutan owned a Damchi and the breed has been featured on one of the country’s postage stamps. A few can be found in Germany where a breeder imported the lovely dogs from India but the bloodlines are very thin. Damchis have a silky top coat which is moderate in length they have a slight mane. They have a curl in the tail which is well feathered. The coat comes in black and white and tri-colour several variations are acceptable. Aloof with strangers, loyal yet independent. They are highly intelligent, playful and good with children. This would be a lovely breed to develop...a larger small breed that's mighty handsome & with high intelligence and good nature.

You're right, MM, it's an excuse to read the books ourselves! There's another one called Let's Get a Pup, said Kate....that you'd love, too. Family go to the animal shelter & adopt a cute puppy. But they can't get out of their minds, a grey & elderly dog who just looked at them so sweetly. Yep....they go back & adopt her, too. By Bob Graham, an Australian....this book won awards for its positive messages about rescue dogs...young and old. http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/1068302...a_Pup_Said_Kate

It'd make a great gift for the children in our lives....& for primary school libraries, too. I'll be buying a copy. Published by Forget-Me-Not;Books, Moss Vale NSW, in 2010.

Here's what the book looks like & a synopsis of the story. http://www.booktopia.com.au/the-incredible...0980715408.html

I'm just listening to it now! The author said she got the idea about her book when walking dogs for her local pound. And she wanted to let people know what lovely dogs they are.....so this is why she turned them into characters. She's made up a place called Tumbletown Dog Pound. Where the pound dogs have a lot against them in surviving. She based the dog characters on real dogs she walked for the pound....Tiger & Flip & Spike. Jenny Ferguson....'The Incredible Pound Dogs'. The interviewer has just said that the message of this book is the power of pulling together. Pound dog story has a happy ending with Sutton Forest author ALISON BALDING 29 Mar, 2010 08:06 AM SUTTON Forrest author Jenny Ferguson was so moved by the plight of the dogs at the Moss Vale Animal Shelter she wrote a book about them. Becoming a grandmother inspired her to turn the dogs into heroes and make their story known to the wider world in two adventure stories - The Incredible Pound Dogs. Working as a volunteer dog walker for the shelter for the past seven years, Ms Ferguson instigated the formation of the volunteer group called Friends of the Wingecarribee Animal Shelter (FOWAS). “We walk the dogs every morning, help care for the cats, pay for thousands of dollars worth of veterinary costs each year, buy food for young animals and collect donated food from the general public in bins situated throughout the Highlands,” she said. “We also help improve the facility - buy paddle pools for the dogs to splash about in summer, shade sails for their runs, fans and air conditioners for the catteries, cages, hydrobath, kennels. Wherever we can help, we do. “Our posters advertising the animals are placed in shop windows throughout the Highlands and these help in re-homing.” Ms Ferguson said she was particularly concerned to find out that Councillors would revisit the euthanasia debate when they put the management out for tender. “We were disturbed to read in the News that council would even consider changing the way things are managed out there,” Ms Ferguson said. “The management is excellent, that is why our organisation will strongly recommend that council retain Lost Dogs Home in the management of the Shelter. To do otherwise would be a sad and retrograde step. “While the location is just as terrible as that of the Tumbletown Dog Pound of my story, the care of the animals and the re-homing rates could hardly be better. “The staff is dedicated and thoroughly professional, disease has all but been eliminated thanks to a new quarantine cattery paid for by FOWAS and high standards of hygiene and cleanliness.” Ms Ferguson hopes that, like in her stories, good triumphs over evil and the lost and unwanted can live in peace for the rest of their lives.

You did an amazing job....against the odds & up against a lot of negativity. I'm glad you felt supported by DOL'ers, because you & mum & the pups deserved every assistance. Bless you for giving them a future. I agree with you about Peninsula Animal Aid at Redcliffe. Truly hard-working & genuine people, on behalf of dogs & cats in need. PAA will be issuing their first calendar, for next year, to raise funds....so, everyone, keep their name on your 'shopping' list when new calendar time comes around.

I realise that one case does not necessarily show a trend. But I was talking with a person who works at a pet store which sells puppies . I happened to mention Protexin supplement to her. She replied that they give Protexin to the puppies brought into the store for sale. Because, she said, we don't know how well they were cared for, where they came from. Apart from the welfare issue, this is a consumer issue. Public attention has to be directed to actual circumstances where puppies are sourced from. Just as the public has become more demanding re knowing where food supplies come from. It'd help tremendously, if it were mandatory for all puppies sold, to 'carry' with them (via microchip) the name of the person who bred & raised them. The public also needs to be educated in what background factors are most likely to be found in a puppy that has been bred & raised with a base to be a good companion dog. First, they need to know what these factors are...& second, they need information (that's accountable for 'truth') about how they apply in the life of a puppy they're considering buying. I also agree with the folk who've pointed out that internet ads & newspaper ads are as worrying as pet store sales. In the last US administration, a couple of politicians from opposite parties, formed a joint project to get strict laws set down for sale of puppies in their particular state. But they found that puppy farmers could still advertise from outside that state...using the net. The politicians then decided it'd be necessary to have something which took in all states. But they were bundled out in an election before the matter could progress further.

I'm glad the clicker/treat diversion met with success. That was a good suggestion. So was turning back & ignoring until quiet, if he barks at you for attention. Also consider if there's any way you can block off his view of some of the things that stimulate barking. Rolls of weed plastic along parts of a fenceline can help that. Another strategy for when you're inside & your hear the dog barking outside....comes from the trainer who wrote Metro Dog. Keep a couple of big pans (like saucepans), handy. As soon as the dog outside starts to bark, bash the pans with one hell of a noise. That startles the dog...if he barks again, another bash of the pans. (Don't let him see you doing it!) The dog needs to get the message that his barking causes that hell of a scary noise. And learns to stop barking & thus stop the scary noise from happening. Needless to say,an owner trying this would have to let neighbours know it's a temporary thing.

Yep :p

A great story about a productive meeting between 2 knowledgeable & caring dog owners. :p My Good Owner's story is about the man next door who has racing greyhounds....& loves dogs. About 12 months ago, his female grey, from champion stock, had 11 puppies (all snapped up by new owners). But the pups were with our neighbour until they were 4 to 5 months old. In that time, he deliberately socialised them with people, small dogs, little children & primary aged children. Those pups enjoyed all the socialisation they could get....just like any well-raised puppies. Last week 3 of those former pups came back for a visit on separate days....now young adults at the beginning of their track racing. Each grey 'remembered' their small dog pals & went into play bows with wagging tails as soon as they saw our 2 tib girls at the back fence. More play bows & wagging tails as the children next door were brought up to the fence to renew acquaintance. Then they snuggled into the arms of the adult neighbours....lapping up cuddles. All the while, their original owner & breeder looked on very satisfied. Remarking how their bloodline produces not only champion racers, but dogs with the sweetest, most social natures (thanks to him, actually!). He said if by some slight chance, they don't make it on the track, good pet homes will be found. And, if they do, they'll make great pets on retirement.

Sounds like there's some predictability in the outbreaks of aggression. Like when sparked by food resources. You said they were standing over the food bowl (even tho' empty) at the time. Dogs are dogs & there'll be a possibility of aggression breaking out over food or possessions (beds & toys). Which means you can shape the environment, to some extent, to help prevent. We had 2 shelties for nearly 15 yrs (one a gentle male & the other a pushy female). In all that time, the gentle male twice lost it when the pushy female muscled in on his food dish while he was eating. There followed an almighty dog fight, but no harm done. My fault for 'exposing' Danny to pushy Shelley while he was eating. Our tib girl named Angel lit into the pushy female sheltie, the first day the tib arrived....because I foolishly gave her a treat, in the group of 3 & Shelley swooped on it. Angel flew at Shelley like an angry dragon & an almighty dog fight started. No harm fortunately as I pulled the smaller dog out of the middle. Never, ever another incident between them.....as I learned again how food can trigger aggression. And that I had control over that. Some interesting research, that still gets cited as a useful resource by the UC Davis Vet School, about household dog fighting (& good to read that owners found improvement after treatment of household fighting in nearly 60% of cases.): Sherman CK, Reisner IR, et al. 1996. Characteristics, treatment, and outcome of 99 cases of aggression between dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science. 47(1-2):91-108. Abstract: 99 cases of aggression between dogs treated at the Animal Behaviour Clinic at Cornell University between 1983 and 1993 were analysed. In 73 cases the aggression was a conflict between dogs in the same household, whereas in 26 cases the aggression was directed at non-household dogs... . Overall, more females initiated household aggression, whereas more males attacked non-household dogs. For household aggression, same-sex pairs, especially females, were far more numerous than opposite-sex pairs. Of dogs that started household fights, 58% were younger and 59% arrived in the home more recently than the target dog. Household fights were more serious than fights with outsiders; fights between female house-mates tended to be more severe than other gender combinations. Excitement was the most frequent trigger of household fighting. Treatments recommended for household aggression were desensitization with counter-conditioning and obedience training. Neutering and a head halter were most often suggested for non-household aggression. In the owners' opinion, treatment improved 59% of household cases and 52% of non-household cases. After treatment, 56% of dogs exhibiting household aggression could be together when supervised, whereas 76% of those exhibiting non-household aggression could be around outsiders under leash control. Cases of household aggression in which the attacking dog was younger than its target, a person had been bitten, or the owner could not predict aggressive episodes were less likely to be improved than cases in which these situations did not occur.

Is this the case from the current GIVIT list where a man with a disability needs a dog bed for his new assistance dog? I clicked on it & it says the bed has been donated. Is this what's come about from the offer in this thread? (GIVIT is a network started by a great lady in Brisbane, where cases in need....& verified thro' approved charities....can have that need listed on a website & email list. People in the community can then offer to donate, either new goods or good condition second hand or money to buy item. I think, Steve, you've said that MDBA Pacers is one of the approved charities. GIVIT polled its members & found that 100% voted that animal charities be included.)

Agree. I thought the same.

Regulated...how? Usually there are only 'codes of practice'...that are not mandatory & therefore not policed. Successful puppy farms? That's a contradiction, in terms. 'Farming' practice, no matter how clean the environment & how adequate the food.... is no way to breed & raise companion animals like dogs. Socialisation? Enrichment experiences? Absolutely essential. BUT both don't go along with 'farming'. Those needs for socialisation & enrichment are not met for the parent dogs.....the breeding stock...either. Yet there are studies which show that how a mother dog is socialised affects the puppies. Puppy farming = Ignorance of dog breeding, development & behaviours.

My dad used to love to tell the story about how he & my mother were in the busy main street of Caloundra, on holidays. Their cardigan corgi, Biddy, was with them. When they were going off in different directions, my dad heard my mum's voice, loud & clear above all the crowd. 'Biddy!, Go with your father!' Dad said people looked at him as if he was a Great Dane. But we've also had startled looks from tradesmen who've come to do work at the house. We'd talk about what we'd have to do with Grandma, so she wouldn't get in their way & trip them up.....or be let out the gate. Make a bed for her in the laundry, perhaps? Put her in a crate? Noticing panicky looks on their faces....that they were about to be left with a feral Gran....we'd have to explain it was our aged little dog. Who would only answer to Gran.

You're right....Marie Claire magazine has usually shown a sense of social responsibility. Maybe they'll take notice of feedback giving information why this My Dog ad, is not sending out a 'welfare' message about how to get a dog. By contrast, the July issue of Australian House & Garden has a great article about how to get a puppy in a way that does not support puppy-farming (which it describes in well-chosen words). The columnist points people directly to good breeders (& tells them how to recognise one)... & recommends that people contact Kennel Associations & breed clubs. I sent a copy of it to RSPCA Qld as an example of a media message which deserves praise in the battle against puppy farming. Maybe I should send a copy to Marie Claire.

Totally agree that Chris has contributed to Banjo's dad's recovery. It's on record, via studies here , that there were measurable health benefits of being visited by dogs.....when in a nursing home. Just imagine how those benefits would be ramped up....if you were in hospital....& it was your own dog that came to visit. ;) Huge kudos to Chris for making this happen for Banjo & his dad.

I just saw this. And full marks to him for doing that. The little rescue pup, Penny, was from Animal Aid. She was a darling & so confident getting cuddles from all the panel. And looking out at the camera operators, with curiosity & not the slightest sign of anxiety. She was a great example of a puppy from an ethical rescue source....shining with good health & socialisation. It was great to hear him refer to puppy farms & how they didn't attend to puppies' health.

Thanks for that link, WnH. I specially liked the recent study from Italy about how to reduce stress in shelter/pound dogs...& thus up their chances of adoption. The dogs selected for the study were not the extremely aggressive or the extremely anxious dogs, but those which would mirror the average dog population. And whose behaviour could be adversely affected by all the stresses linked with being in a shelter. Those behaviours can be wrongly thought to be their 'fixed' temperament & so lessen their adoption chances. The study described all the ways that socialisation via human contact & lots of enrichment actiivities lessened the stress.....& so reduced the stressed behaviours. People who temerament-test dogs in pounds & shelters should read this.

I understand why it was one encounter too many for you, Dory. Some people were behind the door, when God gave out tact. :D There are ways to make a point to people without belittling them via what's dear to their heart....their dog. I'm a great supporter of Purebred Dogs, from the decent knowledgeable registered breeders. For the good reason that dogs from people like that, are likely to get a good boost in life, re their health, conformation, early socialisation & ongoing welfare. But I've also owned mixed breed dogs that I don't describe as a 'mongrel' (a word that's come to have ugly meanings in relation to people). But rather a God Knows the Pedigree dog. . 'Pedigree is actually a benign word which doesn't just refer to purebred dogs or horses. It simply means a map of ancestors. Comes from the French....meaning a 'Heron's Foot'.... because if you write down the ancestors of any person or any animal, the 'map' looks like a bird's foot. You'll even hear the word 'pedigree' used for things which develop over time....like models of cars. What makes the pedigree of purebred dogs different, is that they are registered with a central registry & are assessed on the basis of how they conform to a standard. So, next time, someone lights into you, using the word 'mongrel'.....dazzle that person with science. Tell them your dog is a GKP. God Knows the Pedigree. Perfectly true, the dog has ancestors (no virgin births among dogs )... they just haven't been recorded. So God knows who they were!!!! As for the unfortunate 'oodles', heaven weeps for them. Designed for novelty & profit...with none of the safety factors in their background, like the purebred dogs have.

The Tax Office might get some interesting cases, especially if photos have to be submitted as evidence. Builder friend has work tools & vehicles on his property. He says he has a 'brilliant' canine guarding team. Their pet tibbie & pet dobe. The tibbie is a great alert dog....always picks up any suspicious sounds/movements. Only time it barks. Then the dobe ambles out to take a look. Dobe is really a sweetie, but thieves don't know that. Maybe insurance companies could offer some reduced rates for home insurance, for those with alert pet dogs. Our small dogs have seen off a burglar & also a car thief, who left empty-handed. We didn't know those blokes were on the premises. But the tibs did...they even chased the burglar. Police dogs, eat your hearts out. :p Then there was the burglar in the next suburb who spent ages removing a door into a house. Door came off....& 3 screaming little maltese came hurtling out & chased him, still screaming, up the street. Neighbours came running & held the bloke until the police came. Insurance companies, take note. :p

Found it! Someone gave me this list ages ago. Some of the ideas had helped a very shy & underconfident little dog. Pick out whatever applies to your dog. Generally getting down low makes a shy dog feel less threatened: * Encourge her to do chasey games, when a treat or toy is tied at the end of a string. And she's encouraged to chase it. Apparently that helps the submissive dog to 'feel' & act more dominantly. * Try to protect the dog's personal space. Do not let strangers overwhelm him, etc. You may not be aware of a passersby actually petting the dog. It is amazing what really goes on. Do not allow people (even family members) to pet the dog on the top of the head or behind his ears. Instead, pat and scratch the dog on his chest and neck. This is much less threatening to a dog. * Teach the dog how to play with you. Entice the dog for a game of chase, with the dog chasing you. If he won't chase you while you're running, try crawling, yes really. Crawl on the floor on all fours away from him, then lie down and roll. Cover your face and make high-pitched whimpering noises. This should entice the dog to come over to you. This is success, praise the dog and then walk away and try it again later. * If the dog is scared of people, instruct people to sit down with their backs facing the dog. Then, hold out a their hand (behind them) for the dog with a food treat in it. Gradually, the person can turn so that they are sideways, and then facing the dog. Avoid eye-contact until the dog is no longer scared of this particular person. * Do not stroke a scared dog and say "It's OK." This is perceived as praise by the dog and will make it more likely that the dog will repeat his fear again next time. Instead, give robust pats on the sides and act happy, pretend there is nothing to be scared about, and if at all possible, remove him from the frightful situation. * Yawning is a calming signal for dogs. When your dog is nervous or unsure of a situation or person, you (and that person) should sit down by your dog, turn your head and focus slightly away from the dog, and yawn continually. I am not talking about 30 seconds of yawning, rather 3-30 minutes of consistent, passive yawning. Try it, over time it should make your dog more comfortable. * It is important to avoid eye-contact, especially if the dog is used to running away or submissive peeing. When you are able to be close to the dog, kneel or sit down so you are on his level and turn your head away from the dog and lick your lips. Continue doing this until the dog either ceases being nervous, or brings their face closer to yours in a gesture of friendship. If/when this occurs, praise the dog's efforts with kind words and a gentle chest rub, however still avoid eye-contact. Whenever you are close to a scared or submissive dog, it is important to avoid eye-contact so the dog will not feel threatened in any way. * If she's food oriented give visitors some little treats to hold in their hands & occasionally drop next to her as they walk by. * Do not over-stimulate or push the dog too far to fast. Let the dog regulate how close he can get to other people, places and things. If you push a scared dog too far, you will create a neurosis that will be more difficult to treat. * If the dog is scared of human contact, even from you, pet the dog unexpectedly as you walk by. Do it quickly and friendly, and then keep walking. The dog will probably be scared and surprised, for if he knew you were going to pet him, he would've run away and not allowed it. By sneaking in friendly petting with no consequences (you simply walk away) the dog will learn that being touched is not a bad thing. * Being scared is very stressful. Exercise is one of the most beneficial ways to relieve stress, so make sure your dog gets plenty of it. If your dog likes other dogs (if you don't know, find out) I strongly recommend that you find a dog for him to play with on a weekly basis (more often, even better). Canine companionship is very important to dogs, and especially a dog that does not trust many humans, another canine can relieve more stress than anything else. Be sure to allow the dogs to romp around and play unrestricted (except for a fence) until they tire out. This may be one of the best therapies that you can give a shy dog.