Miranda

I don't see anything wrong with 'pet quality' either, I also use 'stud dog', brood bitch' and 'breeding stock', they are all perfectly acceptable terms in dog breeding.

Puppy proof your yard and leave the dog outside during the day, confining a large breed to a puppy pen all day isn't fair on the dog, plus have you considered the amount of wee and poo a dog of that size will produce

I left a comb lying in the grass at KCC Park on Saturday when I was having photos taken, if anyone has found a CC poodle comb can they please contact me privately. Thank you.

It's hard to say until the bitch arrives, some are easy and some are not. Most bitches I've had were fine, but some howled and/or wouldn't eat and one even developed diarrhoea because she was so stressed. Bitches that have had previous litters are usually ok, but once I could only get a slip with a maiden and it turned out she had a stricture so I did an A.I. as well. A lot can depend on how you're set up and whether you're able to deal with a difficult mating should a problem occur. It's also easier if the bitch has been prog tested and is ready to mate when she arrives, a maiden bitch that comes to you on her 8th day and isn't ready to mate until her 16th can be a PITA. All part of earning that stud fee

I would never use PennHIP, it isn't held in high regard even in its country of origin. The vast majority of breeders use OFFA.

Yep. I LOVE this brush! It makes the topcoat gleam like nothing else, and magically seems to get each hair into its rightful place. Love it. Worth every one of the billion dollars it cost This is the boar and brass brush? They are only $49.50 from Pet Network.

I was just about to ask exactly the same thing Cockerlover

Lovely photos atua, Gordons can be perfect angels at 3 months and absolute demons at one year of age As Envy is very food oriented I would definitely look into the Triangle of Temptation, I have found it a highly effective training tool and it made a world of difference to one of my boys who was a real little s**t at about the same age. It seems complicated at the beginning, but you'll soon get the hang of it and believe me it works!

Wrong! A proper gun dog is capable of lots of disciplined inaction, and is a dog you can live with between hunts. A lunatic is intolerable in a shooting environment. You must have an off switch. This sort of temperament is as bad as high hip scores and worse than carrying PRA. I would say you've got a poorly bred bitch . . . conformation has been put over temperament. Talk with the breeder . . . they need feedback. They may not be willing to do anything to help. But they should know. And you should not breed this bitch, no matter how quickly she gets her Ch. Well sandgrubber I didn't realise you knew so much about Gordon Setters, but obviously you're an expert on all gundog breeds, you must be to make such disparaging statements about a dog, its parents and its breeder even though you've never met any of them. The dog in question was bred by a very well respected breeder and both the sire and the dam have excellent temperaments, atua can vouch for this, she has met the sire and had the dam living with her for a few months. Gordons need a lot of attention when young, they must have regular and consistent training and they have to be taught boundaries, they are also 'one family dogs' and become very attached to their people and isolating a Gordon in a kennel on its own is a recipe for disaster. Pav lova is correct, this bitch has a young, inexperienced owner who hasn't realised the amount the amount of work required, although in atua's defence she does run her own business and is also 8 months pregnant and probably wasn't prepared for a Gordon entering adolesence, they can be a real handful. Atua has been in touch with the breeder and she is doing everything she can to help (sorry to disappoint you sandgrubber) and I'm sure they can work things out between them.

Your dog is not 'nuts', she's a young Gordon that needs more mental stimulation and more one on one work. Ostracising her by placing her away from the family and the other dogs is only going to make her worse. How often does she leave your property? Does she get taken for walks, go to an obedience club? Have you tried doing any dog sports with her? Simply putting her out in a paddock to run a couple of times a day isn't enough, she's a working breed and needs training and a job to do. Gordons aren't a breed for everyone, they can be incredibly energetic and headstrong when young and need lots of work, I would start her on TOT and the NILIF program for a start, but what she really needs in one on one attention and training.

I don't measure it hilaryo, I've used it for years so I just pour a small quantity of warm water into a bowl and then add a small squeeze of Malaseb. Maybe 15 to 1, 30 to 1? I did one of my bitches a few weeks ago and the smell hasn't returned, it acts almost instantly, but if you're doing it for the first time maybe do it once and again a week later then leave it until you need to use it again. Cutting out any hair around the folds helps as well. ETA Diluted Malaseb is also good for wiping out ears.

OFFA is a U.S. site, you won't find any info on your dog's ancestors unless your dog comes from imported U.S. lines.

If the breeders have had their dogs hip scored over here they can easily give you a number for each hip, ask to see the paperwork, the lower the numbers the better the score. A, B, C, D, E are commonly used in Europe, the U.S. have Excellent, Good, Fair, Moderate and Severe and the U.K. and Australia use numbers to score the hips.

I wouldn't breed from a D and if for some special reason I bred from a C it would be to an A or B, preferably an A. Are you in Europe? ETA we use the BVA system in Australia, from memory A is 1-3 and B is 4-8.

Your dog probably has lip fold pyoderma. Saliva and food fragments get trapped in the small crevices at each side of the dog's mouth, it's a warm, moist environment and a fungal infection often develops, hence the unpleasant smell. Cleaning the area with a cotton bud or ball soaked in diluted Malaseb once a week will usually solve the problem.

In your original post you clearly stated that this so called 'breed' had been accepted by the AKC, this is incorrect. The biewer, brewer or whatever you choose to call it is not recognised by any of the major kennel clubs including the FCI. I do wish that people would check their facts before posting.

Rubbish

I also have this in the Member Marketplace, but I'm not sure how many show people go in there so I'm putting it here. I have a 1 litre bottle of Isle Of Dogs No. 62 Conditioning Mist that I can't use because the scent of it affects my nose and eyes and makes me want to sneeze (certain perfumes have the same effect). It's opened but I can't use it so am selling for $50(cost $68).

Take the puppy away and clean everything up, she should get over it in 48 hours. Cutting her food right down can help. I wouldn't have her desexed, the next litter will probably be perfectly normal, have progesterone tests done so you can be sure she's mated at the right time. Don't dwell on it, unfortunately these things happen when you breed dogs.

Oops I missed the egg eating part of your post. If she's eating 2/3 eggs a day, I think that's too many, I would limit her to 1 or 2 a week. Another reason not to allow your male out with the puppies is that they will automatically try to suck on his penis and most dogs (unlike some other species ) hate it.

If I were you I'd just leave the door closed.

I reply to all puppy enquiries, just email them and ask for more details or ask them to call you if that suits you better.

Bitches whelp 63 days from ovulation not 63 days post mating so don't assume that Saturday will be the day, the pups could come before or after. Yes it's normal for bitches to be active right up to whelping, but if they're very large and uncomfortable or the weather is hot they usually slow down a bit towards the end. No a sire doesn't instinctively recognise his own pups and may or may not accept them, it depends on the dog, some males are good with puppies and some don't want to know about them. Remember too that the pups are tiny and easily injured by a larger dog and your male could hurt one quite unintentionally. I certainly wouldn't allow him inside with the pups when they are very young because a) bitches need a quiet and peaceful environment in which to feed and care for their pups and b) she may see him as a threat and attack him. My bitches are always fiercely protective of their pups and won't allow any of the dogs they live with anywhere near them, especially during the first few weeks. Good luck.

I do have big dogs and I found the surface really good to run on last Saturday, I haven't showed inside for a year. Perhaps it's just the shoes I was wearing

I love the surface inside, it's really good to run on, I much prefer it to grass.