Kavik

Why do the people want a young boisterous Kelpie? Are they willing to put work into behaviour modification so that the dog does not pester their current dog? Have they considered the older Schnauzer's wellbeing?

Another to PAX from me!

I have colour preferences, but if the right dog was a different colour, I would take the right dog over my preferred colour.

I'm no help sorry. I suck it up and carry a metal crate

Ooh the pup is right near me! Maybe I'll bump into them on a walk sometime. Flynn is looking great! He's got lovely long legs hasn't he. You do need to get to PICSI some time so I can meet Flynn and there is a trial at Paws 4 Fun (Eric Mobbs Reserve Castle Hill) on Sunday.

Hi vendo ;) It's Lia from Specialist Canines

My suggestions from your list are Cocker Spaniel Miniature Poodle Both require plenty of grooming though. Both do very well at obedience and agility, good with kids if raised correctly, generally good with other dogs, will alert bark if someone is at the door. Miniature Schnauzers I also quite like, bit more spunky IMO (which I like). Depends on whether you like beards and maybe not as instantly dog friendly as cockers and poodles.

Gorgeous! Are you keeping this one?

Well done! I am glad you are doing well despite his allergies

Well done on the MAAD!

We got a quallie and first place in Novice Agility at the ADAC trial today! And the judge commented on how impressed he was with Kaos's contacts One more to go for his ADAC Novice Agility title!

What if they don't care about or don't want to do that level of obedience training? Many people don't. I've had people approach me on walks asking if I could help with problem behaviours including barking at the door. I doubt many of them care about getting to a high level of obedience, they just want a way of dealing with the barking at the door from their pet dog. While I am interested in teaching high level training behaviours to my own dogs, many people just want a pet that they can walk and not be a nuisance. I can certainly see the merit in what Aidan is saying, and I was going to use a go to the mat scenario shaping the mat to doorbell myself to fix this sort of problem for others.

I crate Kaos at training and trials becaue as Agility Dogs said, I want him rested and ready to go when it is our turn. He relaxes in his crate and knows when he comes out it is time for action. It is also for my sanity as he doesn't relax as well when outside the crate

I would work on her separately and not walk her with the others until her behaviour on lead is sorted. Have you seen a trainer with her to help with her lead manners around other dogs?

Kaos went through a ratbag stage at around 9 months. If you work through it with some guidance they come good He is now an AWESOME dog and we are getting some great results in agility

What is your aim for your pup? Are you planning on doing competitive sports or just have a nice companion with good manners? The way you approach training for each of these will be different.

If you are in Sydney there are plenty of agility clubs that don't require you to have done formal obedience

If you are teaching 2o2o then they learn to touch a spot, which is actually off the contact. You use a target plate to teach that, fade that so they touch the grass. Running contacts is also I think more about a spot then colour. Definitely agree, they are learning to touch a certain spot. In the running contact DVDs I've seen it is all about generalising the behaviour and striding to a certain spot.

My clubs have a sand based finish on their equipment, as have the equipment I have competed on. I've used builders sand in paint on my contact board at home. Some of the newer equipment made for ANKC that I have not yet used I think is rubberised. Probably not a concern for you at this stage, dogs may get thrown if they are used to one and then are suddenly faced with another type in competition. There was a dog on the weekend that slid into its contacts on the seesaw and A-Frame which wouldn't be able to do that on rubber. I also heard that some dogs baulked at the rubber on new equipment as they were used to sand. I think the rubberised looks interesting and if it is as good as people say most equipment may move that way.

Most contact areas I have seen are white or yellow. Here is a video posted on Clean Run's Facebook page comparing contact surfaces - sand vs rubberised. http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1226148227342

Yep the routine is on Youtube She also did this routine at Crufts last year. It is very cool! ETA: Here is the Crufts performance

I couldn't talk OH out of Masterchef :nahnah: Is it online?

I don't see it as as good an example of how -R works as say force retrieve or ecollar. In that the collar pressure is not the only thing done (only thing mentioned in the article, doesn't say pressing on rump) and the others are done to give the dog a choice and show them how to turn the pressure off. I don't see pressure on collar to make the dog sit quite the same way. I see it as part of guide/show/place with the pressing on the rump. Training with compulsion, certainly. And even places that teach with guide/show/place that I have seen don't do pressure on collar, command, comply, release pressure. They tend to do pressure on collar (to keep head up) and on rump at the same time as command. From what I understand -R the pressure comes BEFORE any command.

Irish Terriers were the poor man's farm dog. Nothing "snobby" about them. Certainly nothing snobby about Kelpies!

Yep you are right - taking something away from the dog that increases a behaviour The article linked explained it well but used a bad example - I don't know anyone who teaches sit by pulling up on the collar! The most usual examples given are the forced retrieve like you gave or the use of an ecollar where the stim is given and when the dog complies the stim is turned off.