Cosmolo

I'm not sure what sort of format you're after but we do run classes in Clayton South- would be 5-10 minutesfrom Oakleigh/ Chadstone.

I take dogs at times to demonstrate something or to show owners a difference in a handling technique. For example, some people learn much more easily when they watch their dog get super excited with a reward given by me compared to their subtle or inadequate reward. Some people need to know that their dog can do it.

Make sure you go down and have a look at whats on offer. Training for a new puppy is so vital- the person or persons you get to assist you should be the best available to help you with your pup in their critical period. Think about it like taking a child to school or daycare when they're little- you want to be dealing with people who are highly skilled and experienced. You may find this at an obedience club, you may find this at the puppy school at a vet- either way its important that you find it!

I have seen at least 2 in the last 6 months or so too.

PM Willow from the forum- i think she'd be able to let you know what the best options in your area are

Dog school with qualified instructors who can help you is a good start but a few private sessions with a good trainer would be invaluable. No, your pup will not snap out of it, particularly if he did not see any dogs during his critical period (6-16 weeks) Whereabouts are you located?

Good post Aidan

What breed, age and weight is Hugo? if you do a search for "dexter" you'll find a few good threads on HD- i know how you feel, Dexter has HD and ED.

Go and see Kathy Koppellis-McLeod. She is definitely your best bet when it comes to aggression is Perth. She is NDTF qualified but uses positive methods and runs reactive rover classes- the dogs in the class are all reactive in some way but the atmosphere is calm and controlled. I observed these classes a few years ago and it was very good.

Is it a reactive rover class?

Thats right S+T- we do alot of work with ex shelter dogs and if people can't manage the dog in the short term, they return the dog. I don't think the art of using collars is lost. I think times have changed and there are things that make loose lead walking more difficult for some people. Alot of dogs receive less stimulation, less or different socialisation, have less company etc than 20 years ago and i think this has an impact as well as people being time poor and having higher expectations.

But if a short term tool can make it easier for a handler/ rider to learn those skills, why would we not make it easy for them to learn and then remove the tool?

Thats what i'm thinking too Piper

I understand where you're coming from Nekhbet- i just want to have as many tools and techniques up my sleeve as possible, in addition to all of the other things we discuss with clients- leadership etc. I never suggested that a piece of training equipment could help an owner who does not want to learn or change though.

I think you're correct with what you have started with toilet training- keeping a consistent surface is very important and grass usually allows the most flexibility etc for moving house. I would say 60% of clients who are in the same area you are have no access to a backyard- so its not uncommon and provided mental and physical stimulation, critical period socialisation and consistency are taken care of, you minimise the risk of having issues. I will pm you as well

Most puppy schools require first vaccination, not full vaccinations- thats all we require.

Really ptolomy, thats interesting. Why would they dislike it? ;)

Next course starts 5th September ;)

Is it a soft puppy kong? Do you have any soft toys for him? We run puppy school in South Melbourne too- next one commences in a few weeks.

My girl used to go round the back for her turns but since developing her hind end awareness she does u turns and i prefer it now.

I like to teach puppies that they are never allowed to put their mouth around a person so will correct the mouthing on you or clothes attached to you. You need to find what works best for your puppy- anything from a verbal correction to a time out to using the puppies scruff can be used to correct the mouthing but you need to be clear, consistent and have good timing. What kind of chew toys do you have for your puppy? Are you going to puppy school? It is always better if someone can show you what to do and determine what works best for your dog- the type of correction, level of correction and timing of the correction are vital in determining whether it will be effective and varies from puppy to puppy. In addition its vital that there is plenty of mental stimulation, especially in a working breed. Perhaps if you let us know your area we can suggest a quality puppy school in your area. You need to provide high value rewards for not mouthing you- teaching some basic obedience (sit etc) can help the puppy to understand what alternative behaviours to try. Make sure you have plenty of chew toys and encourage the puppy to chew these- while you can redirect from mouthing or chewing something inappropriate to a toy, i generally stop the mouthing first, wait 30 seconds or so and then provide a toy to engage in a game. The time delay is important so the dog doesn't perceive the toy as a reward for mouthing/ chewing.

Thanks guys- all of your feedback is realy helpful. Do any of you use no pull harnesses with the aim of transitioning the dog to a normal collar? Nekhbet, i disagree- loose lead walking is something many clients find difficult. If loose lead walking was easy for everyone, all the no pull harnesses, martingales and headcollars wouldn't have been created! :D

What do you think about them for larger dogs LP and S+T? Thanks for the comments- much appreciated info.

E collars in Victoria can be used after the dog has had a veterinary examination and under the direction or supervision of a qualified trainer

Use is restricted but allowed in Vic