karen15

I took 3 months LSL when I get my puppy two and a half years ago. Was wonderful. The first month revolved around the puppy. Second month I painted inside of my unit, so started leaving dogs outside for an hour or three. Last month resumed a more normal routine with longer absences from home in the lead up to returning to work hours.

Not a dog dentist, but looks similar to when my Westie got his canines. You can see here he had two upper incisors for a bit. The adult tooth came through in front of the baby tooth. Now has a perfect set of chompers.

Regards retractable leads, I believe the Brisbane council rule is dogs have to be no more than 2m from their owners. Never see people pulled up for breaking that rule though.

I know dogs can get spay incontinence and am wondering if this extends to faecal incontinence as well. I've noticed that Meg, the cocker, may sometimes have a poop nugget in her bed and one day was walking along and a nugget just fell out. I found a single nugget inside today and for sometime had been wondering if she knows it's happening. I've previously posted about her pooping inside in the wet, but that's a proper poop, not just a random nugget. Will discuss with vet as they will be getting their shots soon, but just curious if it is something that happens.

I can't fathom how she would have got her luggage out for the cruise and not seen the dog? If it was just in the rear atea

Wasn't the case in the pic Scrappi. I only got the cocker a month before the pup. I understand dogs can be food possessive / resource guard, which requires a totally different approach. But under normal circumstances I don't agree with not interfering while they eat. I believe you need to be able to approach them while eating and take what they're eating away from them without fuss. You never know when a kid will touch their bowl or bone or approach them while eating or someone will feed them something they shouldn't have. So I train them that food can be taken away, meals interrupted etc. They also know their bowls and know they cannot eat from the other dogs' bowl. It sounds like the pup in the OP is settling and realising the other dog isn't going to take her food. It's only been 4 days. Unless an altercation is likely, if they were my dogs, I'd continue to feed in my preferred manner.

Mine eat side by side. Synchronised eating the Westie is a little character though. It took me a while to work out that he won't eat unless I do. He might nibble just to get through, but will leave most of his meal until I have mine on a plate.

When I got my cocker (from work at just under 3yo) fussy was not the word for her. She was fed a strange mix that got soaked and looked and smelled revolting. I transitioned her to kibble and mince, but by jimminies there were days where I had to mix it all together just right or she'd turn her nose up at it. Finally I cracked it and resolved she'd eat what she was fed. Dish put down for 15-20 minutes and taken away till next meal. Well, after the first day I'm googling my dog won't eat LOL I stuck it out and by the end of the second day she was eating. That coupled with being on a diet and now she eats whatever she's fed.

I know with cats, an effective way to keep them off counters is contact with the sticky side up. They hate sticky stuff on their paws. I used alfoil on the couch with success to keep the cat off. May have looked rather strange, but also worked really well. Doesn't help a thieving dog problem though......

We have a classified site just for work people - it's a big place. Yesterday someone put up a wanted ad for details of a reputable oodle breeder...... I know, I know. I wrote back asking why an oodle, and very nicely added some links for low shedding purebred dogs. It's one of those things where you debate replying incase they end up offended and upset. They wrote back today thanking me for my input and saying they weren't aware of the purebred alternatives. While finding links yesterday I saw a few pups of the cross they mentioned for $3500! I cannot believe the price of them. I did note when I replied today that my Westie was just under $2500 and has multiple champions in his pedigree. Hopefully they will rethink purchasing a designer dog.

Has he got a microchip? If so can you find the register he is on and ask if they have his history including any prior names. You could also send his chip number to the state bodies and ask if they may be able to help you track down his breeder. They were really lovely when I was trying to track down the breeder of the cocker I rehomed from work. From what we could work out, she's Byb as there were no registered litters on her DOB. and her chip number wasn't in their records. Also ties in with the $700/$800 price the first owner reportedly paid for her. Whenever I asked the chip registry or the state clubs for help, I termed it as I had just got the dog and was wanting to let her breeder know that she'd found her forever home and was ok. I'd also say I understood they probably couldn't give me contact details but I'd be greatful if they could pass mine on for the breeder so they could contact me. ETA I'd also attach pics of her to forward on and also just to personalise it a bit and put a dog to a name

Ok, this is clause item 21 of the amendment (b) must include the organisation's code of ethics and details of how the code is enforced; and (c) must include the outcome of any disciplinary action taken by the organisation for breaches of the code of ethics during the preceding year; and which goes to my first points above about consequences for reported poor breeding practises. It appears that, like in qld, anyone who sells a dog or cat, that includes giving away, has to have a source number. In 68M a register is to be maintained that will link microbreeders and source numbers. Now, I think this is of concern: 68P (2) A microbreeder who is applying for a source number under Division 3 must give the information set out in section 68Q(1)(a), (c), (e), (h), (i) and (j), relating to the microbreeder, to the Secretary with the application for the source number. 68Q (c) the following details about the relevant person or body— (i) the address; (ii) the telephone number; (iii) the email address; However they don't have to include information in 68Q(d) which is the address of the premises at which a relevant person or body— (i) who carries out breeding of dogs or cats, carries out that breeding; or (ii) who is a registered foster carer, keeps the animals; Whilst microbreeders needs to give out their personal address, they don't have to give the address of the premises where the dogs are kept. That will enable registration of dogs under others names and keep puppy farming alive and well. To me the source register seems to be working on the honour system and we all know that just doesn't work. I haven't seen any provisions that verify identities, especially for microbreeders. So in that respect, the state body asking for licence number verification is at least in front of what is required. There is a requirement on the source register to record number of litters by dog. How hard is it to just register false microchip numbers? Particularly as dogs need to be microchipped before sale, what's to stop people keeping a list of those numbers and having Ghost breeding bitches? Provided people fill in the unverifiable forms, as far as the register is concerned all is well. So easy to keep microchip details of a dog sold in Vic to someone in Qld and report that dog as the bitch of the litter. Are they planning to cross check every litter to the various microchip registries?

But bluedeer, just because people are registered with eg Dogs Victoria, it does not make them ethical or any less of a puppy farmer. I think it's been said numerous times on DOL that the state bodies have little in the way of consequences when breeders are beyond dodgy. They stay registered and are allowed to continue as they are. One post recently said one state body was requiring drivers licences to stop false registrations. So the state bodies aren't enforcing good codes of practise or basic administration. Whilst I don't agree with the very subjective "at least as good as or better" or ability to change an organisations exempt status, it might force the state bodies to be more serious when poor practises are reported. I also noted the microbreeder term with 1-2 dogs not subject to the rules. I'll have to read the legislation to see if that is per address or per person. Isn't it common now for puppy farmers to register dogs in others names so they can get around the rules? This is a very easy way to do that and it sounds like there'll be no regulation on litters, breeding age, minimum standards of care for these poor animals.

And because they aren't digesting their food, even though they're being fed, they starve unless the issue can be fixed.

having seen the work amd enrichment breeders on DOL, like starheke (sorry, i know that isn't right -I mean the amazing rotti breeder) put into their pups, it would be impossible to replicate on a commercial scale. The ones who miss out are the dogs. They cease being individuals and become mass produced commodities. I'd prefer to see mass facilities not encouraged and certainly not put forward as the ideal way to raise and keep dogs.

generally I've been really lucky with my current two. I must look quite bristly as people with on lead dogs ask if it's ok to approach and say hello. It's probably because I see dogs approach and gather mine in to tight heel and people realise I don't welcome dogs in our space. We've had lovely interactions with on lead dogs and off lead dogs in appropriate places ie puppy park! It's the off lead ones with the totally ignorant owner where I get majorly cranky.

totally understand Sars. Unfortunately picking up a dog can make you a target, so I'd suggest leaving both on the ground if possible. Stepping between a rushing dog and their target can break their focus and back them off. However if they are determined to attack it can also backfire. I never used to be concerned until the attack on my staffy. It was a wolf hound, so dwarfed him. I choked it to get it off. I was so lucky I'd spent so much time socialising Sam as the incident didn't see him become dog aggressive. He was the happiest friendliest dog. He was so distraught after the attack - uncontrollable drooling etc. If it had been one of the dogs I have now they'd be dead (cocker and westie). So it's well and truly stuck with me and I find the best defence is an early attack. I had Sam at the beach once, post attack and a random dog rushed on up. I sent it packing and it's owner said but your dog looks friendly. I said he is, it's me you've got to worry about. Dog was taken away.

Call council and report it. My staffy was attacked on a walk. On lead, unprovoked and I had to haul the dog off him. Luckily someone saw it happen. Brisbane council were excellent. I called them around 6.30 am. A ranger was at my place bt 8.30, but we were at the vet. He went and saw the dog and witness and returned around 12. Dog was declared dangerous in under two days. not long after another dog raced out of its yard at him. I stopped that by stepping in front of him, between the dogs. If a dog bites a person consequences are way worse..... recently outside of puppy park, off leash dog rushed my two. I went off like a fire cracker at the owner. Told her if she wanted her mongrel off lead then put it in the bloody park RIGHT THERE!!!!!! Otherwise she's breaking the law. She said dog wasn't doing any harm I yelled yes it bloody well was, jumping all over my leashed dogs. Called council, reported and requested ranger to patrol at peak times. any off lead dog that approaches me is met with hostility and advice to owner that if it gets close enough I'll use it as a football.

Rural pug, that looks like the door I have. It's a soft plastic flap with metal locking plate to close it. Mine have never run flat out through it, but it's 6+ years old and still good. My dogs fit through the cat flat at my mums, so not as big as a bounding boxer I don't like the noise of the hard perspex ones like mum has. Mine is very quiet in comparison.

a friend just got a pup from a DOL breeder - I get to meet it tomorrow :D

my cocker was similar when I got her. Wouldn't engage, wouldn't play, if you stood up she'd be a dog shaped puddle on the ground. I was her fourth home and she was a few months shy of three years old. She'd left a golden retriever buddy when I got her. she's a guts, so would always be there for food, however even with that initially there was a lot of turned up noses and uneaten food until it was made how she liked. A diet fixed that fussiness, as she was very fat, now she eats whatever she's fed. I would guess that, as a breeding dog, yours has probably spent a bit of time in the crate, so that's where she feels most secure. It would be quite unsettling being in a strange place with strange people. Apparently Meg would howl when I left and keep it up till I got home. Luckily I have nice neighbours! Once I got the pup, a month after I got Meg, she was happier, plus then I was on three months leave, so we all spent a lot of time together. ìf she comes when called, I'd be calling her out of the crate pretty regularly, giving her a yummy treat like liver treats, beef jerky, cheese etc, a bit of a pat and cuddle, then let her decide where she wants to be, back in the crate is fine. Does she have other beds in the house? That would give her somewhere else to go to. I wanted Meg sleeping in my room and to be honest she didn't have a choice. I put a bed in there, put her on it and shut the bedroom door so she couldn't leave. That's the routine and these days she's very eager to go to bed at night. these days, the crate is in the bathroom and is used when I'm at work as her sleep spot (if she doesn't pinch the westies....). They have access to outdoors as well. I've got 8 dog beds for two dogs so they have plenty of options. As Meg wants to be with me, she picks the beds nearest me, if she isn't on the couch snuggling me , like now. seeing them come out of their shell is very rewarding. I was so excited the first time Meg instigated play and the first morning she raced onto the bed with a teddy to play. She didn't know how to play when I got her, and for me that's really sad. As my vet said, once she realised she wasn't leaving she became very devoted to me.

I know my westie wouldn't be able to eat this due to the fat content. Beef mince is too fatty and upsets his tum, so food cooked in fat would be a disaster. I've never seen the point of tinned food when it is so much easier, and significantly less stinkier, to feed fresh mince or meat.

if you've spent $40k already and have financial strain, to pursue legally will just be adding costs. I'm not sure how a non resident would go about using small claims court. For $40k I am pretty sure you're over the limit anyway. An option may be one of those no win no pay lawyers eg Trilby Misso, Maurice Blackburn etc that way no extra cost to you, breeder gets taken to court and you may get a bit of money back. On the face of it, you have evidence that the dogs aren't fit for purpose (based solely on what you've said, not a legal opinion) so they may be happy to represent you. Just be prepared to send the dogs back.

To me it reads like they're taking the piss. Quotes from the Huffington Post and Daily Mail at the start probably put me in that frame of mind and what I read subsequently was read with that slant. The poor grammar did nothing to improve my thoughts.

25kg isn't heavy. I must have a generic version of the type of bed you're talking about. My staffy was 20-22kg and it lasted him 14 years. The cocker now sleeps on it and the mat is starting to tear, so I will be recovering with shade cloth. It's a nice clip on cover, but bought so long ago I doubt I'd find a replacement. like you, I got it for airflow in our hot weather.