Erny

All and everything. I randomise. Food in both pockets. Food in Food Treat pouch. Tug down shirt. Tug in hand. I sometimes have all. I sometimes have nothing. I sometimes have only one or two of the possible 'arrangements'. He doesn't know where something will come from, but what he does know is that it is about command compliance and looking at my face that will get him his rewards/drive satisfaction, not looking for where the goodies come from.

I notice my boy will occasionally do this when he is a bit constipated/when the stools are a bit on the hard side. Maybe doing the 'walk' helps it to come through .

Yes Macka ..... Health Food Shop .

I don't know if using it every night is necessary or even good. I can only presume that there is some drying effect from it. I don't think it would cause too much, if any, damage if used a lot, but I carry a bit of a "less is more" attitude to these things. If your dog's skin is really bad, then yes, I'd use it a few times in a row until you see that the redness and angriness of the skin has disappeared. Then I'd just let the skin heal itself. Also, with the spray bottle - that is one way of applying it. Of course for those who have used a spray bottle to reprimand their dogs, well perhaps their dogs have become used to thinking they are in trouble . Other dogs just might not enjoy the sensation of it. So you can use a flannel that is soaked to the point of over saturation, and rub that onto the skin. Be gentle around the spots that are affected and have only sparse hair cover (eg. armpits; inside tops of back legs; etc) as these areas would be very sensitive and possibly sore. Glad your dog (and yourself, indirectly) got some relief from the Calendula. My boy has broken out into another bout of pustulous skin eruptions under one of his armpits (first time in months). The area was really red and angry and quite sore. I did a Calendula tea wash last night on the affected area and this morning the redness has gone and the 'pimples' have receded and are on their way to healing. Wish I could get down to the exact reason they occur in the first place, but at least there is something 'benign' that is also very effective in reducing the symptoms and helping to stop secondary skin infections in the meantime.

I wouldn't 'flood'. I would engage a good trainer/behaviourist. It is so much easier (and better/safer) to get someone who can not only tell you, but who can also visually describe and show, and work out what methods, distances etc. etc. are best for your dog at the moment. I'd be concentrating on the development of my own relationship with the dog just at the minute, doing everything I could to put into place leadership attributes that your dog will understand and begin to trust. Letting the dog settle down and understand her place in the pack with you. Sure, you need strategies to be able to deal with strangers, and whilst you'd want to get on with desensitising her and building her confidence up in the presence of other people as soon as possible, don't be in a hurry to push it. Hasten slowly, in otherwords. Let her get to know and understand you and your household ways and rules .

I presume from your post that the person you went through didn't help any? I've left a message for Mr. Barry Templeton to call me back. I just want to discuss at this stage and I'll make a point of asking what method/s he uses for analysis - thanks for alerting me, Sas. Not sure whether I'll go ahead with it yet. ETA: Have spoken with Mr. Templeton. I explained in brief (even brief was long ) health history and Mr. Templeton (with a serious laugh in his voice) suggests he is going to be a challenge. I've decided to give it a whirl. Can't hurt to at least see what the diagnosis is.

I have heard of some good results through hair analysis too. Never tried it myself, but IMO it would be worth a try. Actually, 2tollers, would you mind PMing me his number? I thought there was someone down this way somewhere (Mornington area?) who did this too, but can't recall who told me.

Wasn't suggesting otherwise, Stormie (or at least I didn't mean for my post to read as though it did) . That's why (in part) I wrote this : (Italics added). I think you've misunderstood what my point is, Stormie. Paraphrasing for clarification : Just because diet is ruled out as the cause for the allergy, doesn't mean that it shouldn't be addressed and improved where possible. As with improvement, a diet can boost the immune system, which in itself may help the dog's own system to NOT react to certain other allergens. To my knowledge, it does not come in 'bags' (as in 'tea bag' style). But then, I didn't know until recently that you could get it as a cream/lotion, either, so it is worth asking your Health Food Shop (which is where you get it from). I simply use a cut down stocking, put a couple of table spoons of the calendula in the toe and use the stocking as I would a tea bag. No need to strain it then. You just let it steep and when ready, remove the stocking (I squeeze out the excess water) and the 'tea' is ready to go. I turn out the stocking to throw away the used calendula tea, let the stocking dry and re-use when required. Let me know how you go, if you would? I hope you get the success that I and others now have .

In my unqualified capacity I'd like to make a comment on a general observation that I've made over time, when reading many of the 'allergy' posts : I think some people think, when a diet change/improvement is suggested, that it is the diet that is being suggested as the cause of the allergy. Sometimes this can be the case, but as has already been mentioned by PF, this is not the case as often as people might think, IMO. And if a dog's diet is proven to not be the cause of the allergic reaction/s, people tend to assume there is no need to switch diets. However, my take on it is that the diet, or more particularly other diets, should be contemplated and wherever possible, improved for the dog. The diet, after all, feeds the whole of the dog's system which of course includes the immune system, which in itself drives and effects/affects every other organ in the dog's body. If you can improve a dog's diet, then there is a chance that you might improve/further support the immune system and if this can be done, then the dog might not be quite so vulnerable to the allergens that current affect it. So whilst a diet might not be a direct cause for allergy reactions, it might be an indirect cause and therefore worth considering rather than dismissing. As I said - this is just my take on it.

A bit late in the piece to mention but I agree with the others who have posted in that I can't understand why the groomer would have clipped off the whiskers. I understood that the only time that's done is for the 'fluffy' breeds, when their faces need trimming - it's a bit hard to trim around their whiskers. For a lab, I would have thought a bath, blow dry, brush, clip nails and an ear check would have been all that was necessary.

You can get Thornit Powder via "Groomers". I don't have their contact info at my finger tips, but you should be able to google them. They are in Australia. I have some but haven't used it yet so I cannot testify as to effectiveness.

Try exercises that actually get your dog to yield to your space. My dog has learnt the above, as well as "move" and "get off" very well .

Is this a new letter in more recent times (I wouldn't know, because APDT kicked me out because I publicly campaigned to try to change Victorian law on this, so I don't get their newsletters anymore ..... have to rely on others to let me know the goss ), or is it the same one they put out when I was busy campaigning? IE The one that in essence says they don't like it because they think positive methods are better, and then includes a footnote reference to the "American Human Society's Guide to Humane Dog Training", which, to the unsuspecting might be thought of as a book that supports their view, yet actually includes reference in it about the PPCollar to the effect that it recommends this collar as an alternative humane dog training restraint???? Agree with this. Agree with this too . What people don't realise is that socialisation to one thing might need several visits, each graduating up in intensity. They tend to think that all they need to do is go out, visit once, and that's it. They don't take into account the possibility that their pup might have an aversion to what they are socialising/habituating to and hence need to go at it slowly and incrementally. All of a sudden, the crucial time has run out. And they are limited in their ideas of socialisation/habituation by their own imagination. I think PPSchool is a good thing because it serves as an early educational platform for the OWNERS.

I like that Good explanations regards the training, SS. Thank you. Even though I don't do herding, it is interesting and thought provoking.

The "Be Still" exercise that I was shown by Brenda Aloff is more than what's been described in a previous post and IMO would be best practiced TONNES of times at home, in a non-stressful environment. This, to get the dog to understand the exercise and be comfortable with it for what it is first. Then the "Be Still" exercise can be used, GRADUALLY increasing the distractions and teaching the dog to be relaxed in environments/situations that would otherwise be more stressful. The "Be Still" exercise is about the dog learning to trust the owner; learning that relaxing is what will 'win' its freedom; and learning as a result of these things that it can relax in the presence of what are worrisome stimuli. It is not just nor IMO, mainly, a "restraint' exercise.

Thinking the same thing when I read your posts, Ness.

Randomise the exercises then. Do lots of repetitions (eg. in the GSP suggestion I made) but also do sits from drops; drops to stand; sit/stays; stand/stays. And hey .... don't worry if she does begin to anticipate. In the process of training, that's often normal. I usually just go in and work on the other of the exercises if this begins to happen. Once the dog gets it clearer, reliability generally returns.

I'd try guide, showing and placing her combined with appropriate use of voice to indicate "heading in the right (or wrong) direction". And I'd do quite a lot of repetitions on that before I moved to the next increment, which would be the 'hands off' approach. Then bring back distance. Do you train in drive? Using drive training and the fast responses that often comes with it, you can sometimes get a dog to do something almost before he/she's realised he/she's done it, and this can iron out some wrinkles when it comes to taking steps to accomplish static positions/position changes.

I presume you do this exercise in front of her? You must be, else she wouldn't be able to take a huge step to the right because you'd be in the way. Or did you mean 'huge step to the left'? Either of those, I would ask : What's your body language doing? What's your hand signal? How do you hold your motivator (tug; treats;) when you've trained/training her? If she's moving to the left, is she making it so she can see the toy/treats better? When you've trained to fix this issue by using a barrier, have you done many repetitions this was and worked off that gradually? How far from her in front are you? If there's distance, I'd reduce that back to zero and work on a gentle 'guide' as you give the verbal command. The guide to stop her from moving right. Use your voice (eg: ahah or good) as appropriate and use it as early in her movements as possible. Re-work getting distance in very gradually to begin with so that she understands moving into drop from static (ie without stepping) is what you want.

Ahhhh .... that makes sense, even to me . Thanks Jesomil .

What age?

I've been reading the thread, although not joining in - especially in matters relating to herding training. It is not my forte and consequently I prefer to 'listen' to those who have experience in this field. Your response to Kelpie-i was a bit stroppy, Shortstep?. I think K-i was asking a genuine question of you but it sounds to me as though you've snapped back at her? I don't fully understand your explanation as to what you would do with a dog who does leave the area to work other sheep. Mainly because I don't understand the lingo, I think. But I know that Kelpie-i will explain this to me at some stage when we manage time .

Yes, IMO, or at least trained to remain a bit manageable. Whilst a groomer would most likely have better handling skills than yours (given their constant exposure and experience), a wriggly squirmy dog isn't necessarily going to be a 'peach' just because a professional groomer is on the job. It's a little bit like having an out of control, spoilt child and expecting teachers to do the parenting and manners lessons. They often do that as a matter of course, but it isn't their job and actually means they are detracted from their job. But anyway, I stray from topic ..... At the groomers there's a good chance your dog was even more exciteable due to new/novel environment etc. Also, there's a good chance your dog's undercoat has been loosened through the bath and also potentially by stress. I'm not a professional groomer, but in my limited experience you can't stop the moulting until the moulting period has ended (does it ever end for labs? ). I think you'd do well to learn how to handle your girl - at least in general terms. I don't care if my dog is feeling squiggly and squirmy. I groom him and I do expect him to stand still and not be mucking around while I do it, nor snatching at the grooming mit as though it were a toy. It is the way I hold him and STOP him from being able to 'win' under those circumstances which teach him that standing still is what I require and that he might as well wait there and enjoy the experience :p. Teaching obedience helps people learn how to be calm, assertive and consistent. It also helps towards maintaining a leadership role with dogs. But there is also the every day interaction and responses that you give/make which add up to that as well. I don't know if you need assistance in this regard but if you take up obedience lessons with a reputable obedience school you'll be around others who might be able to indicate as to whether you need more help than that. Many people go to obedience school so that THEY might learn to be able to train. Others go there not because they don't know how, but because they want the busier environment to work their dogs in. So either way, there would be no harm in it and provided it is a good school, only good .

And that's fair enough . Out of curiousity, what is the protein source used in Hills I/D?

My boy has trained me to not be so worried about the housework. As a result of his excellent and consistent effort, I have developed 'learned helplessness' when it comes to housework.