Erny

Oh ..... and whilst we wait for your response (I appreciate you'd be busy cleaning up), think about contacting the crate manufacturer. Perhaps they can provide a replacement door to the crate? Seems from the photos that's the only part that is damaged, so you might be able to salvage with minimum expense. The crate at least did its job. I'm somewhat more concerned for Chopper at the moment though, as I'm sure you are as well.

Crap, Ruthless!!! Is Chopper's mouth ok? This sounds very much like (but I'm not concluding anything) Separation Anxiety - the attachment being to the other dogs (assuming that he's fine when they are all there, regardless of whether you are home or not). The shit on the ground is a sign of high stress. Of course, not to mention the damage to himself through his efforts to escape. What is Chopper like if someone (your OH?) is home with Chopper when you take out two of the others? What's he like if you only take 1 of the dogs out? Is his behaviour worse when one particular dog goes, or doesn't he discriminate?

How so, Rusky?

I agree - it's an interesting idea and I can see how the body suit would assist in breaking the licking/scratching cycle which often is something that aggravates the original problem and makes it worse. I've 'book-marked' it for future reference. I'd like to hear from more people who have used it though. I'd have concerns with it preventing full air flow and also preventing the shedding of old skin cells that would ordinarily come away from skin allergy stricken dogs, and the consequential build up of bacteria on skin that is pre-disposed to or already affected by secondary skin infection. Kavik - if it were something that really did do the trick (and I think that relies on the licking/scratching cycle being the main culprit for the ongoing skin issue), then it would be worth using and keeping your two dogs separate for a while. However I do have concerns about its affect on a condition that has ongoing underlying cause/s. Have you tried bathing with the Calendula Tea?

I am surprised the orgs who so involve themselves with the control (or, as it stands, the banning) of training equipment that we can or cannot use with our dogs have not stepped in to howl down the rights of anyone selling training equipment from supermarkets. 'They' say they don't like certain tools and their reasoning is supposedly based in the 'welfare' of dogs, yet they allow this to occur without a scrap of a murmur. Oh. But then they support the head collar as being a 'kind' and 'positive' training tool. So it must be alright then. :) :shakehead: Why don't they poke their noses in when it really would do some good?

In addition to that, make going into his crate a fun game. "In your crate" (guide him if necessary) and when he's in, give him a treat such as a piece of carrot or some such that he can chew on. Leave the door open to allow him to come out if he wants to. Repeat periodically. This way, he will be less inclined to associate you being home + crate + he gets locked in and left alone. Also, try tiring his mind out before bed time by teaching some tricks; socialising or some such. It will help him sleep better if his little busy mind is tired. He doesn't feel the cold in the laundry, does he? I'll need to read back ..... I've forgotten how old and what breed. But check for possible drafts. I used to use a hot water bottle for my boy when he was tiny (gosh ..... that only feels like yesterday, yet he is now a 1 year old!!). It was double wrapped in towels and then placed well under his blankets. But then he slept in his crate on the floor next to my bed, so I was able to hear if he was likely to try to get at the water bottle. He never did, but I admit I never left him alone with it in his crate. Having said that, it seemed to make a huge difference to him settling down. I'd put it in there at least half an hour before I needed him to sleep in his crate so that the warmth could permeate through.

I agree with the above, although the GL can have advantages in certain situations and for certain applications. But I was recently informed (3rd hand info) that the newer GL's had not only a wider muzzle strap but that it was also padded. That's what I've been told, anyway. IMO each of the brands harbor advantages AND disadvantages when being compared to one and then another. It boils down to which brand/style would be best for the individual dog in question. And that has to take into account not only the dog's head size and shape, but also the size of its neck in comparison to its head, its length of muzzle and also what behaviour issues are present (if any). Personally, I don't often use them. But I am a trainer and therefore I have made a point of learning not only about them but also how they should be properly used and the dangers in not using them properly and to gaining some experience in their use. Head collars have been of use to me personally in some special circumstances.

When did that happen? Did he get into trouble on DOL?

Could be nose irritant or yes, could be the onset of Canine Cough. Give them both doses of Active Manuka Honey. Purchase it from your Health Food Store and aim for a label that marks its 'active' ingredient as being of a level of anywhere between +20 - +35 (the higher the better). Some labels show the level in "MG's". MG400 is the equivalent of +30. It is expensive, but the upside of it is that it is helps the immune system so it is good for your dogs. The other upside is that your dogs will love it. You can give it from the teaspoon and/or you can add some water (don't use hot water). By adding it to water it helps for your dogs to remain hydrated. Don't put too much water with it though, as the dogs might guzzle too much and too much water can be detrimental as can not enough. The other upside is that it won't matter if your dogs don't have Canine Cough. And last but not least, the other upside is that you can use it for yourself as well. AMH is a great holistic health assistant to have in the pantry at all times. It lasts forever . In the meantime, just keep things quiet for the next day or two to see how your dogs' symptoms pan out. This way, you won't be unnecessarily taxing their systems nor spreading Canine Cough around, if indeed that is what it is. I don't think it is necessary to rush to the Vets right now. If they develop any signs of laboured breathing then yes, go see a Vet who will then prescribe anti-biotics. If it is Canine Cough there is no treatment for it other than rest and avoidance of drafts (as you would for any cold/flu). It is only secondary infection that you need to watch for. Don't panic/be alarmed if your dogs develop a raspy cough that ends with a sound that is akin to a bit of a gag. That is normal. The AMH will help sooth the throat as well.

Can they? How disappointing . The last thing dogs need are more correctional tools available in supermarkets where there is guaranteed absolutely no possibility of any hints/tips/advice on their use. Not that they necessarily would or could get that from the Vet clinics and Pet Stores where they were previously commonly purchased, but at least there was an underlying chance.

Excellent news, Sparky25. She looks quite happy with herself too . Hope it continues to all go well. Can see her fur is making a come-back after her shave as well. Before you know it, there will be absolutely no sign of the op at all . Pity the weather is so cold at the moment, otherwise she might have enjoyed chest height walking down at the beach more than she did the under-water tread mill.

Thanks. I relate the word "entire" to reference male dogs and the word "intact" to reference the females. Maybe that's just me. But anyway, I assumed Tyra20007 was making reference to male dogs. That Tyra might have meant females didn't enter my mind.

Is it the "not breeding" that causes the entire dogs to have health issues? I hadn't heard that.

I'm not a Vet and hate the fact that in the absence of the knowledge they have and the absence of seeing the dog, I may be seen to be standing on 'toes'. So my disclaimer is that this is just my general opinion and it isn't necessarily right. BUT .... if it were me, I'd be inclined to seek specialist opinion. And I'd do that before having my dog plied with cortisone. Nose bleeds can be for a variety of causes, from grass seeds to matters more sinister. What is it that makes your Vet think the dry cracked nose (which must be so uncomfortable, poor love) and the blood nose are connected? I'm not saying they are not, but wondering how they've connected the two together. I have no idea about either the dry/cracked nose and/or the bleeding being auto-immune disease related though and in this respect, I'd be inclined to contact Dr. Jean Dodds in the US to ask if your dog's symptoms could be in any way related to thyroid function or autoimmune thyroiditis. If she thought it was possible, then I'd arrange for bloods to be drawn (in accordance with her direction) and sent over to her in the US for analysis. I wouldn't bother with having them tested and analysed out here as I do not believe that our tests are sufficiently thorough, meaning that if they were to show 'negative' I wouldn't necessarily believe them.

Lillysmum .... you're not alone and I'm guessing that there aren't too many responses because we just don't know what to say (that isn't already running in other reasonably current threads). I've already mentioned this in another thread, but I found "Calendula" (which is dried Marigold flowers - purchase from health food shop) tea a big help. May be for a different purpose though. Mandela's Vet suggested it to me when Mandela's hives were erupting and I was concerned about secondary skin infection. He said if the sores appeared infected, to 'bath' him with the tea made from the Calendula. I made the tea (allowed it to cool) and put it in a spray bottle and then sprayed his coat with it, rubbed it in so it would reach the skin. Within 24 hours a huge improvement to the size and apparent angriness of the hive scabs. They dried up very quickly and then came away, leaving relatively healthy new skin underneath (as opposed to red skin). I do believe the treatment actually gave him some relief in itself as well. I don't know if this is an appropriate treatment for your dog's skin, but I have used it on some early 'pimples' that were threatening to either become a rash or a hive and they have disappeared very quickly even after just a couple of wipe overs with cotton balls soaked in the 'tea'. I know this doesn't go to fixing the cause, but might assist in helping to ease the symptoms without resorting to the application of chemically based treatments ???

So you wouldn't use a crate as a 'time-out' to calm down a 'red-cordial' puppy, for instance? Genuine question, given that crates should not be used as a place of punishment. Or conversely, you don't use an exclusionary zone as a punishment? To me there is a vast difference between 'time-out' (ie just settle down a bit) and 'sin-bin' (punishment).

I find in more recent times that more and more people do confuse 'sin-binning' with 'time-out'. No slight to you, Keshwar, but just taking the opportunity to explain my point of view. 'Sin-binning' is meant to be as a punishment for the dog doing something wrong. 'Time-out' is (to me) more the "calm down" trigger and for that I might use something like the dog's crate or something that the dog doesn't consider to be a punishment. In a 'time-out' I might even give the dog a chew item whilst (s)he's in his/her crate. The dog's done nothing wrong per se ..... I just might want the hyper play to settle a bit, before someone ends up in tears. Not sure if I'm the only one who thinks this anymore.

K9 Force is at Kurrajong.

Not sure what the stance is for dogs. For me, although I get it through the health food shop, I could only get it if it is prescribed - but that doesn't have to be by a Doctor. My naturopath prescribed it for me. I had to show the Health Food Shop the Naturopath's prescription and that was sufficient for them. Thanks KL. I have to respect it, but simultaneously I work to not let it get the better of me. I'm lucky too, as I don't seem to have suffered from it as badly as others. I didn't get mine as the result of a virus either. All the people who I know of who have it have contracted it due to a viral infection their body couldn't deal with, and they are worse than I. I don't personally know of any others who have it as the result of stress, where I literally ran on adrenalin for a long period of time. And of course, we know that adrenalin is meant as a 'quick fix' for the body, not a long term measure. But I'm ok . And the adrenoplex made a huge difference to what I regard as a gradual recovery :D. Good luck - if you do check into it, I'd be interested to know what the opinions are. Try a google on it as well. I can't remember the website where I first read of it for dogs but I know it was through googling that I found it.

KL .... Has your Vet/specialist spoken about "Andrenoplex"? They are tabs that are designed to nourish the adrenal gland. I take them for Chronic Fatigue which I acquired as a result of looooong-term stress in a previous, very demanding business. I have found them to be very helpful. My understanding of them is that they are a holistic measure and they are not designed to 'up' or 'down' the adrenal gland activity, but simply to nourish the gland so that it might function as it should or as well as it can. I'm not sure if they would be helpful in Chloe's situation, but I'm thinking they might be. I do know that the tabs are given to dogs. In fact, I'm not sure if they were first designed for dogs (that's how I first knew of them) and then found as a benefit to humans.

You could ring them to discuss. But if you are new to "dog obedience training" and might not easily recognise where one method/thing might conflict with another that you have taught/are teaching, then it might be best to stick with one school. If you think you can 'filter' each of the instructor's ummmmm.... instructions and determine how to incorporate them so they don't conflict with what you've been doing with your pup, then go for both schools .

My answer is the same as Kelpie-i's . And I also think Oscar is cute

Sin-binning IMO helps with certain behaviours. Much relies on the dog not gaining or perceiving to be gaining any reinforcement for the unwanted behaviour though. And some dogs just don't care much about being sin-binned. So I do believe it has its limitations. But I disagree with any out-right across the board claims that "it doesn't work for any dog anytime". ETA: I do believe that some people use or advocate the use of "sin-binning" too often when it can easily be seen that it really isn't working anyway. ETA: I also think sin-binning is a good way of at least getting the dog out of the human's hair when the human has become so exasperated. It gives the human time to calm down and cool off. A hot-under-the-collar human does not equate to good training. Sorry - a late edit : I also think it depends on the owner's timing and the manner in which they 'bridge' (or if they 'bridge at all) so that the dog has a chance of understanding what it was sin-binned for.

Carry the positive attitude you have been exhibiting all this while. Enjoy every moment that she is showing her regenerated 'well-ness' and don't worry. She's being monitored via the Vet monthly, isn't she? Hang in there. I'll keep my fingers and all other available limbs crossed for you and her .

Having a small amount of whitish-yellow discharge is normal for a dog. The production of the discharge is from the normal sloughing of cells and accumulation of debris. But this discharge, if it gets out of control, can be a good place for bacteria to harbor. So if the discharge becomes really greenish or a colour that seems different than you've noticed before, then this might indicate infection in which case a trip to the Vet is in order. My boy had the whitish-yellow discharge when he was around the 6mo mark. It wasn't a bad colour so I wasn't too concerned, but it did seem to be a bit excessive and he was paying a little (IMO) too much 'attention' to it. So I gave it that gentle wipe over with a tissue moistened with Colloidal Silver once a day. This seemed to correct the problem (or whatever problem might have been developing). I think in part the discharge and the licking can be a cyclic problem. He still has the whitish-yellow discharge every now and again, but not to excess and his 'cleaning' routine is no longer obsessive nor excessive.