Clyde

Staffords make me itchy too! I reckon it's the coat prickliness. I started using Aloveen LEAVE IN CONDITIONER in Esme's coat and it's softened it so much I no longer have any issue with her. I used to get red rashes up my arm after hugging her. Their coat is so short that even though it might be soft to touch it's a bit like bristles. One of my clients was allergic to her two Staffs, I recommended my trick and after three months the coat was so soft/sleek and she is no longer allergic after 8 yrs of getting the itchies from them.

New way It's a 3 yrly vax too.

I did the yelping and the growling for a couple of days, when she grew wise to that she got scruffed and put on her side with me baring my teeth and growling. People have always commented that she is not an overly mouthy pup especially for a Stafford. I wasn't prepared to tolerate any mouthiness towards people, I have elderly parents with fragile skin and a 4 yr old. She was in no way harmed but definitely put in her place. My Rotti treated her exactly the same way when she got too bitey with him. I always think it's best to stick to basics with pups and what they would clearly understand in a pack. Other dogs aren't going to distract puppies to stop them getting too cheeky so why should we. You could also firmly hold his muzzle and growl. I do this for clients dogs who are getting mouthy. Make sure you don't hurt him but let him know you are in control.

I was discussing Glucosamine with my vet recently who said latest research shows that it does nothing. The trials were on people and there were no differences between those actually taking Gluc. and those given placebos. I know people who swear by it though.

Vacuum with the Dyson turbo head then the sticky roll. You'll find the roll with Katrina Warrens pic on it is better than the lesser known brands where you do need the whole roll for a small bit.

The trainer who helped me with my current pup said not to take her for on lead walks at all until I know I have the perfect heel at home . Each time you walk your dog on lead and he pulls it's only reaffirming that he can actually pull. We would set off for a walk as soon as she pulled we'd come home. It was a PITA but only took a few days to get the perfect, attentive heel - both at home and out. Do all the heel training at home and find somewhere you can let your dog have a run off leash so you don't give him the opportunity to pull you until he's learnt it doesn't get him anywhere.

Put a muzzle on her and I guarantee no one will come within ten feet Pretty silly when you think that a muzzled dog is probably safer to pat/bring your dog near than a dog wearing a warning vest. I had a Rotti/Dane X who had to be muzzled and people gave us the widest berth. Yet I had another dog at training with a large, fluoro collar tag and people took no notice. I guess people have preconceived ideas about what is 'safe' or not.

I agree. I can't stand the quick fixes and especially don't like haltis. When I took my pup to training the instructor straight away recommended a Halti I firmly declined and we pushed on. I used cooked chicken, sausage etc initially. Now I use some kind of cooked roll from the pet store. I cant remember, but a healthier version of VIP. I dice it all up, seperate it into glad bags and freeze it. Each time we have a training session I can just pull out a bag a little before hand as it defrosts really quickly. Persevere with the flat collar. I found it best to train in my yard with no leash - cuts out the fiddly handling so you only have to concentrate on the timing of the reward. It's worked really well for us.

From memory we would take them up to 15 weeks. If I were you I would try to take the pups to seperate classes

What a beautiful tribute for a beautiful dog. I'm sorry for your loss Jed, she certainly sounds much loved

Great idea!! Those smiling Spaniels seem to think so too

I'm so sorry She had a beautiful smile.

I'm not a fan of the Doggyman stuff myself. Especially their nail clippers. Very short life span!

I have no idea what you mean :D

Or a child UV rated rashie

Snap 1 turns out shorter looking that a 7 IMO. Technically they should be the same (3mm) but the snaps tend to cut a little closer I have found. I'd just tell her to keep the dog out of the sun for two weeks and try to keep snap 2 as your shortest. Snap 2 is most of my dogs peak summer with snap 3 legs blended then scissored. Re the UV protector for coats, one would think that if it is stopping the sun from affecting the coat then it should definitely stop the sun burning the skin.

Could you go to group classes? I always like those as then it is some socialising in a controlled environment. Then if you think your dog might play nicely with another there you can go for a stroll together after the class. I don't take my Staff to popular parks, although I did for the very first time 2weeks ago. Long story but I saw two Staffs tearing around and decided to keep back and keep my buys on leash, when the two Staffs chased a got a hold of a swf. Did some damage, everyone was really shaken up but it only confirmed to me why I avoid those sort of places. Just stick to dogs you know and avoid the more 'reactive' breeds.

Kiss your dollars goodbye :rolleyes: It's so easy to spend, spend, spend on that site, I love it. My last order cost me $130 postage I did recieve it in about 4 days though and there was a fair bit of stuff, it would have been about $80 had I opted for slower post.

My Universal slickers are pink :rolleyes: www.petedge.com

normally her coat is quite nice and silky Sorry I can be tactless sometimes. I meant in 'groomers terms'. I like the scruffy woofas, but the coat is terrible to work with.

Twice I have brought entire bitches in to my home that have come in to season within two weeks even though they weren't due for some time. So hopefully it's nothing sinister! Definitely whisk her to the vets, if you think it's smelly though I would probably hunt around for a 24 hr clinic now 'just in case'.

It's been interesting reading a few comments during this excessive heat about owners saying their dogs aren't coping due to their coat, yet they are the ones who sprout their 'fully insulated' theory. To the OP, the dog is a cross breed so chances are the coat isn't that great anyway. Personally I would take it all off if you feel she is suffering as I believe that a dog does feel relief without their coat regardless of breed. However, by the looks of her a good Coat King then probably a Furminator could do the trick of thinning it out without worrying too much about regrowth.

I don't know the other prices, but our local is $60 consult. I have found them to be about $5 dearer than 'the Gladesville area', or any other Nth Beaches area I have used.

I have clients who use them and swear by them. Although I do still find the odd flea on some of these dogs I don't find ticks. I bought one to try, but just couldn't risk a tick slipping through. I don't think I could ever rely solely on a Skudo for ticks.

I feel really sad for this puppy. Could you not let him inside with you in the evenings? He is already at home alone all day long. You've made no mention of anyone checking on him or feeding him during the day, as per his age, either. Dogs are a pack animal, it's not in them to be a solitary creature. At least let the wee thing inside in the evening to spend quality time with 'his pack', rather than crying through the door. Re. the fleas. Advantage is probably the best product on the market. Not seeing fleas on the dog isn't always an indication that you don't have them. Look for tiny black dots under the coat, on the skin. Typically on their rump, above their tail. This is flea dirt, dried blood left behind by fleas (their faeces). The majority of fleas are in the environment rather than on the pet, they jump on to feed. Fleas are exceptionally tough critters and can be very difficult to eradicate. Regular flea bombing of the house and a regular quality prevention (such as Advantage) should do the trick. Did the breeder chat to you about diseases and taking your puppy out?