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I've recently moved to Brisbane from Perth, and we never had to really worry about ticks there. I'm now aware ticks are an issue here in QLD.

I've not had a chance to speak to my vet yet, but does anybody have any suggestions for routine care required to prevent ticks? And how do I deal with them if I find one? I know there is more than one type of tick so I expect the approach might be different for each. Also, are there places and/or environmental conditions under which they are more prevalent?

Any suggestions, or recommended reading, would be great!

Thanks in advance.

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I use permoxin to prevent ticks (only in tick season) then if I notice them getting fleas in the off season I use advantage.

Frontline has never prevented ticks for me but permoxin has been great.

If you find one you pull it out using tweezers or a tick puller outer doo dad. I've never had a tick on one of my animals that has not required vet attention.

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I use permoxin to prevent ticks (only in tick season) then if I notice them getting fleas in the off season I use advantage.

Frontline has never prevented ticks for me but permoxin has been great.

If you find one you pull it out using tweezers or a tick puller outer doo dad. I've never had a tick on one of my animals that has not required vet attention.

Pardon my ignorance, but when is tick season? And is permoxin a brand name or an active constituent in the treatment used?

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We moved here from NZ in 2005 and didnt have the heebeejeebies that one enounters here.

We were advised that tick season was generally regarded as being from Sept-April, and can depend on the heat and humidity. Have heard that ticks may be about early this year so will use tick collars now.

Otherwise we use advantix which we get from http://www.pricelesspets.com.au/.

Here is a link to permoxin http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/product.ph...&bestseller

No doubt being from Perth you will not have come across cane toads either?. Nasty little buggers they are :)

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Talk to you local Vet to find out if Paralysis ticks are a problem where you are, also local dog owners are a good source of knowledge. Brown dog ticks are more widespread.

If you are in an area where there are paralysis ticks the you need to very aware, and daily inspections are a must as well as preventative treatments.

Different areas often require different treatments as the nasty buggers seem to develop resistance to products, again local knowledge is good.

It is good to find a good visual resource on identifying paralysis ticks so you know what you are looking at if you do find ticks.

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We live in an area full of paralysis ticks and have lost two dogs and a cat to them :cool: We have frontline or advantix on them all the time, with reapplication every fortnight. But no topical is a replacement for checking the dogs over, especially around their head. The vet told us that's where they find the majority and we have always found them on the dogs head (because of the blood supply I think). We clip our long haired dogs right back in summer otherwise its impossible to find any ticks. When you find one make sure you get the entire tick out, especially the head which will be buried. Paralysis ticks are a bluey/grey colour and are usually engorged with the dog's blood--you can tell how long it has been in by how big it is.

You need to be careful about washing the dogs when you have applied the topicals too. If you catch it quick enough the dog can be saved and we have had two dogs saved with the antidote. In summer especially if our dogs seem a little off i.e. vomiting, walking a little weird or very lethargic we ring the vet in-case. They usually dunk them straight in a tick bath because wet they are easier to see.

I lost my little Maltese x last December to a tick whilst I was overseas. I still feel terrible because I am sure I would have noticed her behaviour. Poor mum was watching her and my other dogs and had her hands too full.

I have thought of using more heavy duty insecticides and tick collars but because my dogs are inside dogs and sleep with us I worry about touching them with all that junk on all the time. Frontline is bad enough but doesn't sit on their skin. However when we are going into heavy bush areas in summer I might start putting tick collars on them.

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I use Killtix collars on my dogs, as I get brown dog ticks in the yard in Summer. The collars work really well for us.I have never found a live tick on a dog wearing the collar.

No substitute for daily checking though. Inside and outside of the ear, under the eyelids, between the toes, and everywhere else.

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The whole, "make sure you get the whole tick out, including the head" thing is actually a myth. There is no 'head' as such, and if some parts of the tick (usually the mouthparts) remain in the dog it is no cause for concern.

{Edited to clarify}

Edited by -Miss B-
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Advantix every 2 weeks - expensive but it does work.

You should do a physical check every day - at least around the head, neck, ears.

What type of dog do you have as sort coats are obviously easier to check

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The whole, "make sure you get the whole tick out, including the head" thing is actually a myth.

Really?? Could you possibly back that statement up with a link to scientific evidence, please?

and if some parts of the tick (usually the mouthparts) remain in the dog it is no cause for concern.

Considering it is a well known fact that the paralysis tick will inject more venom into the skin of its victim if grabbed, pulled or otherwise disturbed which could then quite literally cause the animal to die after several days of distressing deterioration of it's neurological system and other vital organs.... I beg to differ that leaving 'bits' of a paralysis tick in an animal is quite a serious cause for concern.

Now, if you are specifically speaking of the bush tick/cattle tick... fair enough (thought they can still make a small dog or cat quite ill if left insitu).

Can Permoxin go on puppies? I see no reason why it can't.

With caution.. Permoxin should NOT be used on puppies under 12wks of age if you are buying it in concentrated form. People should really only be advised to use puppy specific products (already made up in the correct/harmless to pup dilution rate) when it comes to potentially dangerous chemicals.

Edited by Cordelia
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Considering it is a well known fact that the paralysis tick will inject more venom into the skin of its victim if grabbed, pulled or otherwise disturbed which could then quite literally cause the animal to die after several days of distressing deterioration of it's neurological system and other vital organs.... I beg to differ that leaving 'bits' of a paralysis tick in an animal is quite a serious cause for concern.

I wasn't talking about removal methods, I was talking purely about the "head" (mouthparts) of the tick being left in the dog. And I probably didn't word my post particularly well, I do apologise for that. If the tick is removed, and mouthparts remain, the tick cannot grow a new body nor can it continue to inject venom into the dog. The saliva glands and toxins are contained within the tick's body, not it's "head" or mouthparts. If removed correctly without being squeezed, there's no problem with the mouthparts being left behind.

And if people will remove a paralysis tick from their dog, think everything is ok and not take it to a vet - then they have some serious problems, imo. I've seen firsthand what paralysis tick does to cats and dogs and it ain't pretty.

My 'source' was a recent Critical Care and First Aid workshop at an animal emergency clinic.

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I wasn't talking about removal methods, I was talking purely about the "head" (mouthparts) of the tick being left in the dog. And I probably didn't word my post particularly well, I do apologise for that. If the tick is removed, and mouthparts remain, the tick cannot grow a new body nor can it continue to inject venom into the dog. The saliva glands and toxins are contained within the tick's body, not it's "head" or mouthparts. If removed correctly without being squeezed, there's no problem with the mouthparts being left behind.

Which is why it is critical to be careful when removing ticks... regardless of head or mouth bits or anything else... it IS about removal methods because it can mean life or death for the animal.

If the tick is removed correctly.. leaving behind the 'head wouldn't actually happen... so it's a moot point. Head breaks off.. you haven't removed it properly and it's quite likely the animal has been given an extra shot of toxins...

My 'source' was a recent Critical Care and First Aid workshop at an animal emergency clinic.

Ah ok.

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Considering it is a well known fact that the paralysis tick will inject more venom into the skin of its victim if grabbed, pulled or otherwise disturbed which could then quite literally cause the animal to die after several days of distressing deterioration of it's neurological system and other vital organs.... I beg to differ that leaving 'bits' of a paralysis tick in an animal is quite a serious cause for concern.

Miss B is right. Leaving the head behind is of minimal concern the body usually expels this later. Once the body is detached from the head no more toxin is injected as the toxin comes from the body.

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Sorry just read the rest of the thread.

Considering it is a well known fact that the paralysis tick will inject more venom into the skin of its victim if grabbed, pulled or otherwise disturbed which could then quite literally cause the animal to die after several days of distressing deterioration of it's neurological system and other vital organs.... I beg to differ that leaving 'bits' of a paralysis tick in an animal is quite a serious cause for concern
.

When has this ever happened? I'm quite confident in saying that leaving the head behind will not cause death. Ticks cause death. If a couple of extra shots were to do it the dog would have to be on deaths door anyway. It takes days for a tick to make a dog feel sick, so a couple of extra seconds being squeezed is not life and death - it's not desirable but not deadly. It *could* possibly delay recovery time - studies have shown that methods of removal do affect the amount of time in recovery.

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The whole, "make sure you get the whole tick out, including the head" thing is actually a myth.

Really?? Could you possibly back that statement up with a link to scientific evidence, please?

and if some parts of the tick (usually the mouthparts) remain in the dog it is no cause for concern.

Considering it is a well known fact that the paralysis tick will inject more venom into the skin of its victim if grabbed, pulled or otherwise disturbed which could then quite literally cause the animal to die after several days of distressing deterioration of it's neurological system and other vital organs.... I beg to differ that leaving 'bits' of a paralysis tick in an animal is quite a serious cause for concern.

Now, if you are specifically speaking of the bush tick/cattle tick... fair enough (thought they can still make a small dog or cat quite ill if left insitu).

Can Permoxin go on puppies? I see no reason why it can't.

With caution.. Permoxin should NOT be used on puppies under 12wks of age if you are buying it in concentrated form. People should really only be advised to use puppy specific products (already made up in the correct/harmless to pup dilution rate) when it comes to potentially dangerous chemicals.

Thanks, will use a puppy specific product for the first month or two (mums dog).

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Miss B is right. Leaving the head behind is of minimal concern the body usually expels this later. Once the body is detached from the head no more toxin is injected as the toxin comes from the body.

Yup that's exactly the point I was trying to make. A lot of pet owners think that leaving the head behind will cause more damage than has already been done, which is just an old wive's tale. The bottom line is, if you suspect your pet may have been bitten by a paralysis tick - get it to a vet ASAP. And if you live in an area prone to ticks, be sure to do your research - learn how to distinguish between a bush tick and a paralysis tick, and read up on the symptoms of tick paralysis.

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