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Help! Recall Training


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Hey guys,

I am currently still at a show so appoligise for any typos - on the iPhone.

I have always had issues with recalls with my Aussie shepherd, wants to please in every other way. But if he is off lead he is gone, sniffing and investigating and compeltely ignores me as if he is deaf.

Today was the last straw, he gave me a bit of a scare by darting back as I took his lead off to go into the crate and he was off, not running but trotting off sniffing and I only caught him because he stopped to sniff, we are next o a busy road and he could have easily been run over, so I am asking for help.

How can I try and teach my 15 month old to come when he is called? He was fine as a pup, just started when he realized he was an entire male!

Aside from the obvious problems, I would love to start in obedience and agility which is a problem if he wanders off!

Thanks so much

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Hi Elise+Hudson

I had similar problems with my male Maremma.

They're not known for their recall.

He would never come when called, that is, until I changed his call to 'bikky'

He comes every time now, with or without a biscuit.

Good Luck

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Use something he is highly motivated to get. If he is food or toy motivated then use what ever is of highest value.

Practice short distances where he wont get distracted and only call him when you know he will come.

If you are not sure about his recall don't let him off, use a longline if you need. If you call when you know he won't come then you have taught him that its ok to ignore you. He needs to learn that every time you call him and he comes straight to you something fantastic happens and if he doesn't come straight to you you get him and he goes on a lead and thats the end of freetime.

I would change the word at this point. He has already learn to ignore what you are using now.

There are heaps of tricks to build up practice and heaps of examples on youtube. One I like is to put and handful of their dry food in your pocket at the beginning of each day and when around the house or other low value environment sporadically call them for a piece. My dogs will eat anything but work much harder for human grade food. I find that after a few recalls for only dry food in a high value environment they stop coming in as quickly. I also find that there is a threshold (particularly in my adolescent male) after hes gone 20m or so and is heading for something high value like another dog Ive lost him. I have to call him before hes past that point. When they screw up and get put on lead I give them opportunities to earn 'off lead' by doing first onlead recalls then close offlead recalls before I release. A good consistent recall is to me the most valuable thing for my dogs to do so I pay it accordingly.

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Thanks guys :) I think I will try a few of these things. He was great as a pup and I think I have not worked as hard on it because of that, and how I guess he has learnt it's much better to wander/run off than come back to me.

He just gave me a decent fright today the silly bugger!

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Get the DVD Really Reliable Recalls. It is excellent.

Yes yes yes! I love this DVD. There are a few different aspects to the training and it's hard to explain it all but the DVD makes it really clear and easy to understand. Well worth the investment. The main points are (very basically) that you condition them to come to a certain call without even thinking about it so they dont decide the alternative is better, and that you do this by using the call and rewarding really well every time they happen to be coming to you anyway, then whenever they do come when called, so that when you really need them to come on command they do.

I agree about changing whatever word you've been using, or having a special word that you can teach him to associate with an extra special reward that he will get when he comes. Quinn will usually recall for the normal doggy treats I carry (coz she's a piggy who will eat anything) but the temptation to jump on people, especially kids, is still often too much for her so I've started giving her cheese when she recalls from a particularly tempting alternative. I've been using the word "look" instead of "come" when she's going to get cheese (started by saying "look" then shoving cheese in her mouth to get her to associate the two, like charging a click or bridge word). It's working pretty well, we are getting there!

BTW, "look" wasn't a good choice because I've realized I say all the time in other situations so I may have to change the word to something I don't say at other times then it should be more reliable.

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I don't use long lines. Instead get some parachute cord, use whatever length is appropriate for your dog. Tie knots along the cord so that you can stand on the cord to stop him running away. Don't try to pick the cord up unless you have your foot on it, or better yet use a glove to prevent rope burn. He will know he has the cord on him, however what he doesn't know is how long the cord is. When his recall becomes reliable (= !00%) shorten the line about a foot or two each week. Don't shorten the line if he hasn't been 100% reliable that week. Over time you will eventually have no cord left.

As I said, he will know the cord is attached - what he doesn't know is how the long the cord is, as you reduce the line he has no way of knowing, hence he will continue to behave as if it is the same length as when you first put it on him.

There are other methods as others will no doubt suggest, obviously work on the recall using rewards and whatever floats his boat.

good luck

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My two guys have a really good recall. THEY have made a game out of it, & if they are both off running together & I call either, they will have a race back to me...do a few laps around me just to tease & then drop at my feet in front for a wad of treats delivered slowly while they gets lots of praise. However, this morning on our walk, the young guy decided that he would wander off in search of fresh young, baby calf poo (there is nothing better). Evidentually, calf poo effects your ears, so you can't hear when someone calls your name. :cry: I only called him twice then walked off & left him & after a little while, he came running flat out. He missed out on his training treats & had to wait for second place in the swimming pool. Next time I walk that way, he will be on a lead :mad

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My two guys have a really good recall. THEY have made a game out of it, & if they are both off running together & I call either, they will have a race back to me...do a few laps around me just to tease & then drop at my feet in front for a wad of treats delivered slowly while they gets lots of praise. However, this morning on our walk, the young guy decided that he would wander off in search of fresh young, baby calf poo (there is nothing better). Evidentually, calf poo effects your ears, so you can't hear when someone calls your name. :cry: I only called him twice then walked off & left him & after a little while, he came running flat out. He missed out on his training treats & had to wait for second place in the swimming pool. Next time I walk that way, he will be on a lead :mad

My boys nuts do a good job of blocking his ears!

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My two guys have a really good recall. THEY have made a game out of it, & if they are both off running together & I call either, they will have a race back to me...do a few laps around me just to tease & then drop at my feet in front for a wad of treats delivered slowly while they gets lots of praise. However, this morning on our walk, the young guy decided that he would wander off in search of fresh young, baby calf poo (there is nothing better). Evidentually, calf poo effects your ears, so you can't hear when someone calls your name. :cry: I only called him twice then walked off & left him & after a little while, he came running flat out. He missed out on his training treats & had to wait for second place in the swimming pool. Next time I walk that way, he will be on a lead :mad

My boys nuts do a good job of blocking his ears!

A well hung dog...no doubt :laugh:

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I do something a little different as mine work sheep so i need a recall that is not motivated by a treat or toy, since neither can compete with the opportunity to work.

I do start with rewards, like everyone else, but at some point I set them up in a situation that makes it really hard for them to want to recall. When they choose to ignore, I walk them down (in a small area). It is neither negative nor positive. I just take their collar, about turn, call them & let go. I expect them to follow. If they don't, we do it again, and again, and again...If they choose to follow, they get praise.

I used to use this method with a couple of horses I had who were hard to catch when they arrived. It worked & seems to work for the dogs as well. I am prepared to do it for as long and as many times as I need to.

Edited by Vickie
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Went to the park today and did some recalls on a 18m long line. When he is 'on' and paying attention he is gorgeous, and does anything I ask. Did some great sit, wait, recalls with enthusiasm, managed to call him away from looking around with no problems.

Had to use the line when he was sniffing about.. but the main problem is once he realises I have food he is on a line and we are training, he doesn't go wandering off!

Still, will keep practising this every day and I think he will improve!

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I agree with Sheena.

Having an off lead area within 100 mts of our house I knew from the beginning this would be where Hunter would get his daily exercise. His recall was always the most important part of his training and as a pup we always rewarded with treats. Hunter is now 16 months and has a reliable recall but I still take treats with me. He is now at the point where I don't reward every time but now and then he still gets one just to reinforce his recall. He also had a bad situation where a strange dog went to have a go at him. His flight response kicked in and he ran 20-30 mts in the other direction. I called him in and he turned in a big circle and came in to me with the strange dog still in chase. Lucky the other dog backed off and the owner was there. But I was so proud that even in that fear situation he responded well. Lots of treats for that.

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E&H you can introduce the two food game when he wont leave you. Use firm largish bits of cheese thats easy for him to see. Cheap cheese is actually better as it has the consistency of plastic :D Keep him on lead and make a production of throwing a piece of food for him to go get. Dont throw it too far in the beginning. When he gobbles it up make a production of throwing another piece in the opposite direction, again making sure he sees it happening. Use a cue...'get it' which gives him permission.

Pretty soon you will be able to throw it a fair distance and you can practice recalls on the move...throw the food and while he is racing to get it you take off in the other direction until he turns and then you have a party as he is returning to you. Good way to exercise a dog who is on a long line.

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So you are talking about eventually calling him off the piece of cheese for a recall?

I had him on the long line on the footy fields and he was doing some lovely recalls, went down the hill to the dog park and it all went out the window with the smells. So we have a huge amount of work to do.

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