Dogsfevr

Does she spend anytime outside unsupervised?/How much time is she outside during the day?? When you get up in the morning its either you toilet first then pup or place pup straight outside & then you go loo whilst shes out there. I would also place puppy on lead & tell her Toilet whilst on the lead,wehn she goes Praise do this ofetn so she gets it but it does sound more a case of pup not getting out in time or being allowed detours on the ground before shes allowed out.If she cant go straight out dont let her roam. The problem with telling her off is she has no alternatives,no doggy door,pee area so she is reliant on you .

In a nutshell the dog will be bathed BUT make sure there is a non slip mat,a slipping dog will panic more than getting bathed,be organized have everything ready. Sometimes with babies using a cheap harness for extra control can be useful. The laundry tub is a great place,less roaming area & you can attach a cheap hose extension for easier washing If you cant do a full bath you can also use a warm bucket with shampoo & sponge the dog but bathing is part of life & just stick with it,be firm,patient & with time it will tolerate /enjoy.Often those washed in cold water have a hissy fit at first because its such a shock the same as us hopping striaght into a cold shower

Hyper active is a dog if you dont want that part your in trouble for the next 12 years. Beagles are active dogs,they love to explore & use there noise,there not couch potatoes or lazy critters but functional scent hounds,you cant change the breed characteristics you can train a dog to be well behaved but the humans also have to realize a dog is a dog & does dog things. Give the pup a chance to settle,it would be like you getting off a plane in a foreign country & no one spoke your language or understood you . The key is to be patient,consistant & not have over the top expectations.Pups learn quickly but you need to focus on ensuring toilet skills etc are the first priority & the all the other skills come with time & effort.

Yep no injections here & we advise our new puppy owners against it. We use the plain & simple old fashioned way

Happy its good your learning,your breeder should also be a good source of info. The problem is vets use certain brands/products & basically it is a sales pitch on those products being the best. When it comes to heartworm all worming we do it the very simple & old fashioned way& dont purchase any of the products from the vets,good old excelpet at the supermarket is just as good as what the vets sell.One product for each thing. We dont use Frontline etc etc.We dont have fleas & see no reason to give the dog a chemical for no reason.I believe you can truley over use the flea stuff & when you want it to work it doesnt. The problem with vets is many do not understand breed specific issues nor do many of there staff. Many years ago to feed Eukanuba to a Bedlington that was CT positive would kill it.Lets face it how many have walked into the vet brought a product with no questions asked ,yes the same can happen at any stock feeds etc. You also get the vets that when new owners take there pup in for there second jab will tell them what the breeder has suggested is not good & to feed what they seel whether that be dry,spot ons etc etc. in our puppy kit we are very specific with what we suggest & we have even phoned vets up complaining about the tactics they pulled on new owners & the scare mongering they did with product advice & boy did the pack it when told so. Vets can be very knowledgable but sadly most havent a clue on breed specific issues & nor do they care to learn or admit when there wrong. Our vets are great if they have breed specific issues they will ring breeders & seek there advice. The way i look at it with my dogs is the same i would myself,i would never take drugs or be given stuff without knowing why,the pros/cons/ups/downs & what alternatives there may be . I remember many years ago a vet who did a radio show claimed daily heartworm was useless & it doesnt work you must only use said product which ofcourse is vet only,to put it bluntly the shit hit the fan & The vet had to apologize & admit what was aid was for profit only but many people where panicked thinking they had done wrong.

I dont think you have to change vets but it surprises how many people allow the vet to give things without asking questions,getting paperwork & reading it & deciding what the pros/cons are. If more people ask there vets why ,they would be more accountable for what there doing.why there giving it & why it is so much better than the alternatives. Make yourself a smart visitor & ask questions you pay for the consult not the sales pitch.

So the dog was vacc only but the vet suggested the heartworn the next visit?? We are old fashioned here ,the dogs get heartworm only.We dont use any of the frontline etc as our dogs dont have fleas & we see no point giving more chemicals for no reasons & infact many dogs do react to the frontline plus. What did your breeder suggest??

I was under the impression the manufactures also suggest it isnt given till a set age. Personally i would never use it & it most certainly isnt the best option just a vet overkill. May i ask what the frontline plus was recommended for??or did the vet suggest this also??

UP quarantine to the UK is different.If you go by pet passport the dog can enter straight into the UK providing it has completed all the testing 9 months prior,Rabies is given because the pet passport gains entrance to europe. If the dog doesnt leave by Pet passport then its still 6 months quarantine in the UK,Rabies is in the UK & europe

SAS we get a big number of dogs through the kennels allergic to chicken it seems to becoming more common. We personally feed our dogs mutton & recommend that to our puppy people but it can be very hard to get a good source on a regular basis. With Beef etc dogs can start to over heat I would look at natural rememdies, washing the feet with white vinegar(diluted)chollidial silver,natural yoghurt rubbed on inflamed areas.Supplents can be added

The biggest nono with GSD is beef but as already said allergies to what. Many dogs can also be allergic to chicken. Royal canin make a special food for GSD but i never feed total dry. You could also try Kangaroo meat,it is great for dogs with issues. What exactly is the allergery result on the dog.Bad skin,itchiness,red ?? Have you seen the vet & used any meds with success?? Some with allergery issues have used Phenergan etc but i am not saying to go buy it without knowing the problem.

We never use rice .For upset tummies we only use chicken & pumpkin. What did the breeder suggest?? As far as vets advice on feeding keep an open mind listen to what they say & think about it.(most sell a said brand on commission & will say its the best ) Premiun dry doesnt have to be brought form the vet infact thats the last place i would go. Milosmum what state are you in as someone could suggest a good pet stockist. Most Lab breeders dont recommend Eukanuba as they have found it does cause growth issues. Many of the Lab breeders i now feed optium/advance plus raw. For me i would be feeding a good large breed growth dry plus raw mutton/lamb flaps/chicken knecks/frames/tuna in oil/natural yoghurt/ etc etc

Yep they waste money on un urgent things ,dont act on cruelty,own pet shops & i believe battery hens. I agree they wasted thousnads of dollars on the tail docking issues yet a situation i now off from last year that is horrific,documented & reported by a local ranger etc etc they did nothing ,yet they acted on silient complaint on tail docking to find out nothing had been done,all the pups had tails but hey dont worry about the dog kicked to death I will not donate any money to them as i do not trust where the money is going,i would happily donate product or blankets because atleast it is going to the needy. When they start getting there priorities right then maybe i may change my views but wasting peoples donations especially in avenues i dare say most people didnt now.

As a groomer & Schnauzer person i find the problem is most groomers ask there clients which schnauzer clip they want,then they phone us saying which trim do we dog?? We explain to them what a schnauzer should be done & they realize they have had a prior groomer that hadnt a clue,plus the groomers that insist on trimming the beards,actually had a call tonight asking how long will it take for there 6 yr olds beard to grow back as the groomer cut if off(they where in tears) . The ones who want over the top requests we tend to avoid,we find they always want something different & it just becomes more trouble & time consuming going through the exact details to make sure each side understands. You get the occasional experts ,the most memorable was clip my dog with a #40 only ,i explained that we wouldnt & they got huffy .I suggested they come & see why .We where abused but they gave us the chance to see the result,the person stood there like OMG & we said thankyou you can find someone else to groom the dog.There was no apology or i didnt realize thankyou very much just a few F88 words .Not worth the money just wanted to make sure the dog wasnt traumatized by a groomer silly enough to do it

Im not abeliever off the alpha roll infact i believe its dangerous & doesnt achieve any results as most owners dont do it correctly & when the dog turns its one the battle.

I use to trial many years ago & now stick to just showing .Our dogs vary from 14-9 months.Most are now retired but being long coats training is constant with grooming plus life skills etc. 3 are full time showdogs which take up 10 hrs a we3k for show grooming/show bath plus training on top of that .I dont do alot once skilled but find i can make a game into maintaining show skills,free stacks etc. In total we have 17 dogs .I work from home so it makes it easrier to dabble around committments etc

Okay dogs dont growl for no reason so something is happening to make the pup feel the need to act this way. Is the dog being picked up correctly,are you over picking the dog up??Are you picking it up when its asleep?/What are the kids doing to the dog ?/Does the pup have a timeout area away from the kids?? Many people feel the need to over manhandle puppies,picking them up,smooching into there faces(the humans) & just overwhelmning the pup. Dogs are no different to people over fussing & constant in your face touching can be all too much for some dogs & inwhich case you need to take a back step & go back to the basic again.Stop picking the pup up,encourage its behaviour to be on the ground so it learns to be secure on the floor especially with kids involved.You have to address the kids with the pup or set up an area for pup to have its space & you need to start obedience.Your pup is acting just like your kids & until trained otherwise it will do those things especailly in a hyped up environment. Dachie chick hitting will achieve nothing except make whats happening now even worse & the next swipe will result in you being bitten & a dachie will have no qualms about protecting itself with its mouth & it will stand up for itself with each hit,you will not win the battle that way & at present you have adog that your scared off which means bigtime diaster. Your partner also needs to realize this dog has big issues & if both dont address the problem with new human actions & pack leadership issues you will have a very aggressive dachie that will most likely end up PTS,Trust me i have been around dachies way to long & seen the worse of the breed & the damage they can do. Dachies arent fiesty but there tough ,they shouldnt be agrressive . I dare say your partner rough handles around its face & the hitting of the face has made it very face shy & is reacting to protect itself from the too actions. You too need to go back to basics & start re educating yourself & the dachie otherwise it wont grow of it . You need to ask yourself when did it start doing this & what may have been the trigger.I presume the pup never showed signs of this when picked up??

Sounds like your tyipcal teenage male GSD.Desexing can make a big difference even now.It sounds like he was a gem as a baby maybe the training & quality time took a backseat & now the dog is fighting for attention.Some dogs thrive on being told off because they get a form of attention. Have you contacted the breeder & asked there advice or dsicussed the issues your having??If so what did they say. I do agree with others though its time to make the big decisions you either need to put yourself out more to help make your dog a great pet for the next 12 yrs or put up with the problems or seek the breeders help in rehoming,some breeders will take them back. I gather this dog isnt allowed in the house?? He sounds like a very frustrated dog competing for attention & leadership

Excelpet flea liquadator works a treat,had many clients use it after no success with other products plus the treatment of other areas. If your dog is prone to fleas then i would be making sure each wash is also a flea wash .malaseb is only good for a set purpose not a stop itch as such . Personally any itchy dogs we get in we use either head/shoulders or selsum .Also may be use a flaxseed supplement,Melrose omega pet makes a granule one which is very good & palatable.

The dog doesnt now how to be independant,he doesnt have boundries & doesnt understand why he cant do things. Personally i would never tie a dog outside the shop especially in a dog that finds it so distressing at this point.My main reason is dogs should never be left tied unattended because the dog could bite,be stolen ,damage itself in the lead or be teased by a passer by.To me tieing a dog outside is like saying to a 2 yr old sit there ill be back. I wouldnt be getting a second dog until you have sorted the issues at here ,i would aslo consider making a seperate area for the dog/s when it comes to school.Dogs need to learn that they cant be involved in everything & above all they dont need to be involved in everything. I would also say you need to treat him like a dog,we all love our dogs but you cannot make them into humans or little people. Unfortunately i see alot of the spoodles in boarding & alot have insecure issues due to the fact both breeds have very different natures & needs & when the 2 are crossed things go wrong.

Ask your breeder dont get caught in the trap of asking the vet,they will flog you stuff that is overpriced & not always the best suited to your breed. All wormers dont need to be purchased from the vet you can use good old exelpet from the supermarkets. Infact the supermarket range of flea/tick/heartworms/all wormers are more than suitable & well priced. Right that down on your ask the breeder list,the breeder will tell you what schedule the pup is on for worming so just follow through. Some breeds can react to some of the sentinal,advantage/advocate etc so again ask your breed. Personally with our dogs we dont use the all in ones.If the dogs dont have fleas we dont treat them ,we do heartworm seperate & worming seperate. The only time i use an all in one is when i fly east to dogshows & due to there being other animals on the flights that may have bugs. Dont rush out all these things are easy to purchase after you have spoken to the breeder

C7 is only useful for certain areas . I wouldnt be using it as dogs can react to Lepto . I would be asking the vet if they vaccinate 6 week olds with c7 because i cannot believe a vet would be stupid enough to do c7 only. Otherwise find another vet & tell them why you are doing so

I would check with your local council about poultry & what the owners are expected to do. Stickfast are the worst & if there chooks are infested then they most certainly should be addressing the issue especially if there spreading around to all.

Actually i do now of incidients with coat kings,whilst it was due to not being used right the dogs still suffered injuires,the worse being 48 microstitches. Anything with blades can do damage,the most important thing with a coat king is its used correctly & you get the right one for the dogs coat. If you want to use something with less worry try an undercoat rake. Personally i would leave his beard that is his character & once trimmed he wont have that gentleman look. I would ask a good groomer what they think or even a breeder of either breeds what they use but basically a good slicker & comb through will do the job until the coat is ready to come out

Because owners take on the same role & when the bite gets alot harder its generally when there going to there new homes & the new pack order is to be established. Many people fall into the trap its cute,that fun game doesnt seem so fun anymore,its too small to tell off etc etc. We have had single pups & there is no different in behaviour except they are more people orienated