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Absolutely! LOL I'm not that skilled at grooming though!

I think you pretty much already answered your own question? You give Bub everything for free, you don't make him work for any of it, i.e. you don't use NILIF principals at all. I would personaly be looking at the thing he loves the most and restricting it and then trying to use that as motivation and seeing how you go. I think maybe you look at 'restricting' as cruel or something like that? In reality there aren't many dogs who work for free, actually I'm not sure there are any? If you're not prepared to find his motivator and use that then there's probably no point training with him? However ifyou were quite interested in training concepts etc. you would use this challenge to upskill yourself?

Leila loves them but her ass is horrid on them!

I don't believe you can do an Elimination diet on Kibble, there are just too many ingrediants and preservatives etc. An Elimination diet is about feeding 1 protein source they haven't had before i.e. goat and then have that with something like Potato. It can take up to 8 weeks on a strict Elimination Diet to see the results of it. Edited: Why does your Vet think Chicken is the Culprit?

Na, I just learn more about different methods.

Do you think that would work for my boy who ends up with Brown areas where he rests his head ie. when he curld up his head rests on his legs and gis legs get stained.

That should never be used as an excuse. Dogs can overcome their 'issues' with stable owners who are prepared to be their leaders.

I used to sew them up to start with and then I just stopped giving him stuffed toys LOL

Give food exchange a try and eating out of your hands, if no improvement within 2 weeks, get in a Behaviourist to help you through the process.

YAY for another sucker!

I'm happy to send you a fur tug to see if that will assist at all.

Getover it - if Caffy can do raw brains in her pocket you can have a container with goat and mashed potato in it and give him a handful every time he gets it right It's an elimination diet...he doesn't really see the potato as a reward if you get my meaning LOL

Nope, he'll chew it for about 1.5 seconds and then spit it. Which is why he wont bring it back and hold it - bless him Some more questions.......(I too have a breed who don't do repetitions well) When you hand him the dumbbell and the second he starts chewing it - do you ever take it off him withdraw your attention for a second and then ask him to hold it again - or would this be enough for him to tell you to stick it up your jumper? Have you tried using a clicker and C/T the second he takes the dumbbell off you and before he starts chewing? I would be looking at using his dinner as his reward - splitting his dinner into 10 parts and if I got a 1 second hold without chewing he would get 1/10 of his meal. He chews it the whole way bringing it back but I haven't stopped him doing it yet as he's actually bringing it back! LOL I'll have a go at what you suggest I can't really do the dinner bit though as he gets 6 pieces of goat and mashed potatoes which is kinda hard to use as a treat LOL

Nope, he'll chew it for about 1.5 seconds and then spit it.

Hi Guys, I'm hoping for some suggestions. I have a Dane...they're fun to train LOL So, it's taken quite some time....like 12 months to get to where we have with the dumbell which is I can throw it out, he'll go and get it and then bring it back and spit it at my feet. I have tried and tried getting him to hold it but for some reason I can't communicate that to him. I never pick the dumbell off the ground but I have to grab it quickly before he spits it. I'm thinking of maybe getting him to try and hold a softer item? Danes aren't the kind of Breed you can do alot of repetition with, right now he really enjoys the exercise so I have to be careful because he can very easily begin to not like it!

Heya, We just did this for the Slow Dane Challenge: http://www.dmantugs.com.au/challenge7.htm The instructional video we used has instructions on what to do if they Sat.

Collars aren't a substitute for training, also what works for another person might not be the best and most solution for your dog i.e. Front clipping harness / Prong collar / Check chain / Halter / Martingale / Slip collar / Snap around collar / E-collar Is it possible you can go to your local obedience club or have one on one sessions with a private trainer?

$59.95 http://www.bowhouse.com.au/p/919679/snuggl...r-your-pet.html http://www.pamperedpaws.com.au/item_view.php?item_id=635

Yes high value means your dog will get over excited by the pressence of other dogs, won't listen to you when other dogs are around and maybe rude and get themselves into a scrap because they don't act appropriately around other dogs. You can always socialise your puppy with other dogs and have them play granted you trust that other puppy or dog however puppy school isn't actually about that and that's where alot of people go wrong. I personaly don't believe puppy schools should have free play because there are always going to dogs of different ages, sizes and temperaments and this is a critical learning period that they don't need to be bullied by another dog in. So many puppy pre-schools are run by people who don't actually know what they're doing. Learning how to help your dog meet and greet other dogs, when to step in and calm down interactions is far more valuable in my opinion than just letting them loose and hoping everything will be ok. I'd far prefer my dog to be able to walk past another dog calmly than loose the plot either in excitment or a fear aggressive response.

She should never have put your puppy in that position to start with so I wouldn't be thinking she knows better now. I'd walk away and call Luci Ellem who is famous for her puppy schools and book in with her.

I generally found with fosters that you would need to take them down to where you wanted them to toilet. Many of the fosters I would get would only toilet on concrete to start with because that is what they were used to.

This is one of the biggest mistakes dog owners make when they have a mature dog and then introduce a puppy. It is not your mature dogs job to correct the puppy, you are the dogs leader and you must step in a correct the puppy each and everytime it harassess another dog. I would only ever have that pup out when you can supervise and I'd probably have the pup on lead and have a safe place the older dog can go.

It's a pretty normal behaviour, some do it, some don't and some start doing it at 8 or 9 week. Just nip it in the butt each time it occurs, you don't need to be harsh about it. Many people laugh when these things happen, don't do that either because that in reinforcing the behaviour to the dog. I would give a firm no and a poke and get up and walk away and don't play with the dog until it's calm again and then repeat the same process.

Just ignore the whole situation, don't even look at the puppy when it's being scared, just act as though there is nothing wrong and continue what you're doing. People usually are the problem and they reinforce the fear but baby talking the puppy or patting them and trying to reassure them somehow during these moments, when it's best to act as though there is nothing scary there at all. Once out of the fear period and the pup is still behaving lke this you could use clicker training to help your pup get used to it.