sas

Hey Steve, Thanks for your reply. He does great hand touches already and will target objects well with his nose and paws. We have done alot of work already on a floor object that he stands on to do 'fronts' and 'pivots'. SO.....I'll take that object and move it closer to me.....man why didn't I think of that!

That's the first method we choose and he'll stop aabout half a metre away, it's almost like he has a personal bubble that we won't break - he's extremely food motivated so he really wants the food but then gets frustrated when I tell him he's not close enough - like he can't understand how to be closer if that makes sense I've tried to clicker baby steps but he always comes to that personal bubble distance and that's all I get. If I step towards him I can stand at his nose, he's not fond of it though but stays put as he knows not to move.

Sorry sorry Steve

Hello oh so wise ones. I'm trying to close the distance when Dante comes in from a recall and sits too far away. Things I have tried are sitting in a chair and calling him in with food to get him close to me, also standing up with food to try and get him close. I'm not sure if it's a size thing? Anyone else use any other methods? I'm considering putting something on my stomach for him to target but then knowing him he'll just reach forward and touch it.

Correct HOWEVER you can ask your Breeder to upgrade her papers to Main so she can be shown in the Neuter class if your Breeder feels she is a good example of the breed.

I'd go with mentaly stimulatiing the dog a lot more and leaving toys that mentaly stimulate. Lablove - the Aussie Home Alone toys are a treat system as well.

Give pup 3 toys per day (1 should be a fun thing to chew) and rotate these toys with different ones each day and that way pup will keep their interest. If you give pup heaps of toys it's like doing the same for a human child....they loose interest in them and ten to pick out a favourite. I would not give cardboard either - you'll probably end up with a dog that will steal items like books and mail - it's a common mistake many puppy owners make. Have you considered that puppy finds digging fun and not that the puppy is bored? I would get a calm shell and fill it with sand or dirt and hide toys in there and actually teach puppy to dig in there. Put dog poo in the holes that pup has dug and cover with dirt and that should prevent pup from going back to the same place to dig.

Walk them seperately until everyone knows what heel means and then bring them together and then the training starts again, sometimes when 2 dogs are together on walks they'll be great and other times they'll be worse.

They look ok to me? Maybe what you're seeing is infact normal for your dog?

Bio Oil

If the dog is fine now and doesn't have any seperation problems then the dog will generally be fine as long as you keep treating it appropriately i.e. like a dog and not the leader. If you want another dog then all well and good, it does change the dynamics and dogs learn things from one another - the good and the bad. 12 hours is getting a pretty standard time for dogs to be left alone in Cities where their owners work and have to travel from the suburbs - so some people need a bit of a reality check. Dogs aren't nervious and stressed out little creatures who need their mummy and daddy - treat them appropriately and they can handle 12 hours especially when they sleep 80% of that time and as long as you can spend your evenings with them and devote individual time to individual dogs.

Lovely design, kudos to the designer.

Dante's an allergic dog, his last shots were his puppy ones. He was titre tested recently and did not required revaccinating and he is 3.5 years old.

Contact details?

Alpha Kerry Oil after a bath and leave in for a few days can assist as well.

My older Dane makes a clicking sound with her nails i.e. she taps them like she's almost dancing and does this specifically to get attention to be let outside or to say she needs something. Both have them grown with NILIF so they don't invade space etc to get attention.

I have a thinker who always needs to be doing something and he's not a working breed, he's a damn independent breed! LOL I think he's confused. My old girl has always been a lazy wench - but she does love a good play and training session if you can get her off her bed.

I'm hanging out for Neuter classes in Sydney, nothing still advertised even in the August Gazette. From what I was told from a few Secs was that because they have to put their show schedules in 5 months in advance it will most likely be July + 5 months before they are available and even then some don't want to spend the extra dollars to have it.

Sam as above, treat the dog as normal, don't over pamper it. If anything, get tougher in NILIF. You might want to look into Valerian, Vit B, DAP etc.

No idea about Poodles however when you cross breed a dog you don't end up with predictable natures. Perhaps the Dam or the Sire or even one of the Granparents were timid, who knows. Your puppy could also just be reacting to a developemental stage it is in as well.

I think it depends... I have a great one near me where only every 1 or 2 people are and have never had an issue there, yet I've been to one with 20+ people there are the owners and dogs are shocking.

WOOOOHOOOOOO!!!! Congratulations!

They took them off the market some time ago. I had 2, they work on very sensitive dogs and that's it.

The D is a swivel yeah?

I used it on my boy, he was desexed after we trialed it so was never bred. It assisted with male to male aggression but normal personality stayed intact.