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sas

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Everything posted by sas

  1. I'd look at a couple of things. 1) Get a different trainer/behaviourist because the current one isn't working 2) Consider this may just be who the dog is and that the dog may be suited to a different Owner 3) Sounds like you're super frustrated which is understandable but anything but calm isn't going to benefit this dog The e-collar isn't about giving a correction WHACK - it's about using low level stims - K9 Pro has a distance Education Course on using them. I don't think it's unusual for working breeds to be a little whacko if they're not getting what they need.....you may be trying hard and doing what you think should work but he needs something different... Have you considered touching base with your local breed club and see if they can reccomend someone who is used to training this breed to help you? I'm not sure if it's suitable, however did you read the topic and comments by Aidan on a product used to calm horses and dogs and dietary changes?
  2. I use Snap around Collars or Check chains or Martingale type collars. We don't use retractable leads, my dogs walk in a heel position.
  3. Can I just say in your poll a Check Chain is not a choke collar, a check chain is only a choke collar if you put it on upside down.
  4. Yep! Awaiting their response. One of the Delta trainers did tell me though that Delta have changed to criteria for being a CGC Tester and it seems to be about money i.e. paying for an additional course even if you just did that course within the last couple years, paying to join a different association so you could be listed ont he website and so forth.
  5. I'd reccomend you use a product designed for dogs.
  6. Can you clarify...crated all day?
  7. Nope LOL, I have XL, L and weenie. Dogs - I treat'em all like Dogs. meea I don't think you understand what other people were referring to. It's not about treating them like a child or a dog, it's about protecting the smaller dog from getting hurt. Your dogs partnership might just be fine. Heard last night of a Staffy that rolled on a JRT puppy last night and broke its' leg....that's the kind of thing I was referring to.
  8. Don't delay going to the derm too long though. If puppy has allergies not just some random weird thing that means it's not a good sign to have it so early so you want to see a Derm as soon as possible.
  9. Just to clarify - the supervision to me isn't about fights, it's about keeping the smaller dog safe, a big dog can accidentaly seriously injure a small dog.
  10. LOL @ repugnant....I didn't know anyone felt so strongely about training in that manner!
  11. Hi! For the last 2.5 years I've tried to find a Delta suitably accredited trainer to do the CGC test with with no luck. Some years ago I did attend the start of a course that you could have your dog tested at the end of the 6 week course however there were so many agro dogs there in an inside environment, it just wasn't a good environment so we took a pass on that. More recently I've tried to reach out to the few CGC Test instructors - there only seems to be 3 in Sydney and of course they're on the other side of the city! So has anyone actually been success in having the test? Can you reccomend a tester?
  12. My recent foster was a puppy and we had no issues, the Danes just learned to watch where the pup was as he tended to walk under neath them. They adjusted their play and corrections to his age/size - they had to learn that themselves as well though - pup would give them feedback. My Male Dane is a really over the top dog and he was awesome with him. I know of Dane Owners with small dogs like Chi's and they do ok, you just have to make sure your Dog is capable of dealing with a small dog and also how they work around them as they can easily hurt them but stading on them and whacking them out of the way. I never had the pup with the Danes unsupervised.
  13. Not many dogs like to be hugged at all, good on you for stepping in.
  14. Another Angel you know *hugs*
  15. Maybe ask this to be moved to the Off Topic section?
  16. sas

    Home Alone

    Why would you be suprised I reccomended a backyard? You have a dog that's where dogs go....just remove anything that could be dangerous for a puppy....not a big deal. A house has a lot more in it to destroy and swallow than a backyard. You're worried about sticks, barks and rocks? Are you being serious?
  17. sas

    Walking Puppy

    #1 piece of advice I could give anyone....don't get annoyed, angry or frustrated....it does take a mentality switch but your dog will respond a hell of a lot better when you are calm....as soon as you change your mentality from calm to something else the dog picks up on it and runs with it. Yes you will probably need to stand there and deep breath though it....I reccomend the breath as it also lets the dogs know you're calming down too and calms them down. You could do a couple of things, carry food with you as you would when you're training a puppy and have the dogs focus rather than having it grabbing the lead. Get a metal chain lead whilst you're going through this little phase. Ignore the behaviour completely, stand still and don't move until the dog has calmed. Don't even put the leash on the dog if it's not 100% calm.
  18. sas

    Home Alone

    hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha why in earth would you let a puppy have free reine of your house whilst you're not there!!!! Crazy talk! LOL Not only could the puppy destroy all sorts of things the puppy could hurt itself and swallow something it chewed especially something like a battery or power cable. I think you need to remind yourself this is a puppy....a dog....not your friend or your child and that little puppy likes to explore things with its' mouth. Confinement can mean a backyard or an area in the house. Having toys scattered everywhere isn't the best idea either, you would be better off having 3 toys out and rotating them so they stay special to the dog. Have you done any seperation training with this puppy? By the time you're ready to go back to work the puppy should have already been well used to the area it is going to be left in and you have left it many times already. For example for those who leave their puppy in the yard they would have already been putting puppy out there for a couple of hours a day with a bone/toys. In addition you are doing yourself no favors when it comes to toilet training by letting a puppy just wander around the home without someone there to provide guidence. That right there speaks volumes....please do what is right for the dog not just what is right for your emotions. And how do the dogs deal with this situation without you around? Fights can occur. LOL Yeah but you don't want to hear it....you're not going to find many people who reccomend leaving your puppy unsupervised in a house.
  19. I believe you need to contact a Behaviourist as your next step, Obedience Trainers aren't typically well versed in Behaviour especially aggression. I have sent you an message with the contact details of who I use for Dogs who have aggression issues. From memory it's $110 for the first session and they come to you and then $80 per session there after. He does do a boot camp at his home where the dog stays for 2 weeks however that is around $600.00.
  20. Fear does not equate to a Tantrum.
  21. http://www.lauckemills.com.au/dogfood1.html Have you tried their feed? I hear it's great quality, made in Australia, cheap and wonderful for putting condition on dogs.
  22. Sounds like Pain, I've had one of my dogs do similar and it scared the crap out of me. Head to the Vets and also the Chiro. Might just have been a once off thing.
  23. I think you may be reinforcing his fears by picking him up and paying that kind of attention to him. I would advise you to seek the help of a qualified Behaviourist to you help you help your dog. Rescue Remedy will not assist you in this case, it is suitable for mild anxiety.
  24. With overweight dogs there is a program you can follow, I've used it myself with success and it takes weight off them appropriately (not too fast): Monday: Mashed Veggies only - you can give as many as you like. Just make sure you don't include veggies with high Sugar content such as Carrots. I would use loads of Butternut Pumpkin, Brocolli then some potato, sweet potato, a fair few beans, cabbage, parsnip etc. Tuesday: Mashed Veggies only Wednesday: BARF Pattie (However much is suitable for that sized dog at its' normal weight) Thursday: Mashed Veggies only Friday: Mashed Veggies only Saturday: BARF Pattie (However much is suitable for that sized dog at its' normal weight) Sunday: Mashed Veggies only Monday: Mashed Veggies only And so the cycle continues. Exercise is going to aid this type of diet, free running is the best. If you have a super overweight dog then you can't do heaps of exercise, so free running at a park with some toys and a bit of encouragement would be safer. *Side note: Some turn their nose up at the veggies to start with....tough luck....have the bowl down for 15 minutes and then take it away....they start loving it soon! I would also be added Minerals and Vitamins to his diet if he's eating inapporiate things and crate the little monkey or confine him with a kiddie gate so he can't get out and eat stuff he shouldn't. Tablets: http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/VPORGT Powder: http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/VPORGVIT
  25. If the dog is getting suitable diet and exercise then it should be able to build muscle mass, also considering Muscle....the amount of it etc. can also have a genetic link. The exercise you are doing might not be suitable for really building muscle i.e. Hill work up and down, galloping, trotting all does different things. Why are you wanting to muscle the dog up? Is it because you don't feel the dog has enough now or you want it to look tough or something? You would be best speaking to the makers of the Muscle up Powder to see if it is suitable for your dog, I believe they also do general feed as well so maybe you might look at changing to a diet that is more suitable for building muscle mass i.e. Protein % and so forth.
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