sas

Ok, well on that testimonel, I'll try this on my allergic boy too as we've just about finished our BARF order.

http://www.caninecountrybarf.com.au/

Well you see if it's me and my dog I just stick to my check chain or half check but new adoptive families find the timing hard on those so I though the front clipping harness would be easier WELL! Bit wrong there!

That's ok, if you think you're right in everything you're doing I'm not sure why you're here complaining. My reply was based on the posts I quoted, I don't need to read the entire thead not do I have time to, to see you are making some very common mistakes. I'm not sure why you think people read threads in their entirerity, most people respond to the original post and if they have time they'll read through the whole thread. Seriously, you need to leave the attitude elsewhere, you came here for advice, I offered it, if you don't want to take it, then that is fine. I'm simply sharing my experience in toilet training a large number of dogs, whether or not this is relevant to you or your dog is another thing. *shakes head*

His scent would be all over the house not just on the bed so you can wash the bed when you're ready to.

It doesn't sound like the dogs diet is actually a balanced one. Either go BARF pre-pared so you know the ratios are right or feed a premium kibble. I wouldn't be worried if the dog lost a little weight right now, better to be a little skinny for a little bit than a royal pain in the ass all its life around food. Ask your Vet to check the dog over if you're worried.

My boy recently had surgery to remove a blockage from a bone, he'll no longer gets bones. I'm sure he'll live just fine without them, he gets bone content in his BARF we purchase so he's getting the nutritional value just not the chewing teeth cleaning action. Anything chewy suuch as Rawhide or Deer Antler he has to have whilst I'm watching him.

So sorry Try and keep things as normal as possible and try not to dot on her too much. I think without a doubt things will be difficult for her however they will be more difficult if you unload your emotions onto her. You could consider fostering an oldie small dog in a couple of weeks if you think that might assist her?

We toilet train a few dogs having fosters so we don't crate train them as sometimes they're not with us long enough to do the training, so we do the following: 1) Do not give them full access to the house, close off bedrooms and bathrooms, anywhere the dog can sneak off and toilet. 2) Always have the dog with us when home so we can watch it. 3) After waking, playing and eating take the toilet down to the yard and say "Toilet" and then wait for the toileting to happen and give calm praise "Good Toilet" when they are going and then once they have finished we lay on the praise big time and then have a play in the yard to show to backyard is a good place to be. 4) Every hour we are home and awake we take the dog to the yard and repeat step #3, if the dog does not go within 5 minutes we go back inside and watch the dog. 5) After the first week the dog is usually getting a bit of a feel for the process so we move to taking the dog down every 2 hours and setting the kitchen timer to remind us if we're busy doing something. 6) Any inside toileting will get a firm "No", pick the dog up and flip it over to stop it toileting (if small or a puppy) and take down to the yard and do step #3. We do not go over board with the "No" because we want the dog to know it did the wrong thing rather than scare the dog into not toileting in front of us in the future. 7) The dog remains outside whilst we clean up with a special accident spray. We don't allow the dog to watch us clean up as it can become a game. We believe if you want your dog to toilet in the yard you should never use toileting pads or newspaper as it is confusing to the dog. With puppies we remove the water bowl an hour before bed and ensure the dog toilets before bed - that means sometimes standing in the yard for 10 minutes waiting. When waiting for the puppy to toilet we don't play with it, we may walk around a bit if it's just sitting or standing there. If you are crate training and the dog toilets in the crate then there are a few things to consider: 1) A crate for crate training should only be big enough for the dog to stand and turn around, this is because dogs do not like to toilet where they sleep. 2) You are not taking the dog out often enough. Overnight you may need to set your alarm clock twice per night and take your puppy out. If you are doing the above and your dog is still toileting in its' crate it may have been raised in a dirty whelping area where it was forced to toilet where it ate and sleep such as Petshop windows and some puppy farm and backyard breeders. It can take a long time to re-train these dogs. Tough....you're her teacher, you need to stand out there like other puppy owners at 2am and wait for the dog to toilet. Don't interact with her if she wants to play or put her on a lead and remove the toys from the yard before you go to bed. You're giving her free licence to make mistakes. I'd have her in a crate next to you bed, you can even raise the crate up so she is level beside you. Then give yourself a swift kick up the bum and stop being so slack. You're making things difficult and frustrating for your puppy, that's not very fair. If you want to build trust and respect with your dog then you need to set it up for success rather than create confusion and frustration. That's not correct. Puppies are puppies regardless of size, none of them have great bladder control early on. My Great Dane puppy needed to go out twice a night in the early stages. That is definately part of your problem, pick up the water bowl an hour before bed.

I think you need to see or speak with a Vet Behaviourist such as: http://www.animalbehaviour.com/ Edited: If you're doing a program with K9, speak to him about your problem.

I think this thread has demonstrated quite well that not all training aids / tools are suitable for all dogs. This dog in particular is not responsive to the front clipping harness with a range of different methods tried, so we'll just stick with the half check martingale and just spend more time with the new family teaching timing of corrections and so forth. I'm glad the front clipping harness has worked for some people though. My foster dog has absolutely no problem being able to pull on the front clip harness, she just does it on an angle.

I have to be honest to say that I have a problem with traning and behavioural endorsements/qualifications issued by private enterprises like the NDTF, Delta, Bark Busters etc where people completing their courses use these endorsements in marketing to the greater community to portray that they hold a formal and recognised qualification in a similar vein as one would attain as a Tafe College or University graduate achieving a trade or profession. In fact, it's misleading to the public IMHO to believe that these certifications provide an official level of recognised competency in an industry that the public then assume is regulated by legislation which it isn't. NTDF is a formal government accrediated program, I believe one of the Delta programs is also government accredited.

Yep it's nice and tight. As soon as the dog get to the ends of the leash she just continues pulling and does it on an angle I have tried pulsating the lead which is on the front of the harness and I have also tried to apply pressure to the back clip in an upward motion and then turn the dog back in towards me but none of those stop her pulling. Sas Before you give up, you could try (if you haven't already done so and you have the inclination to have another go): 1.Being positioned next to the dog's shoulder. 2. Holding the leash as close to the dog as possible 3. With a double leash, having one end of the leash in each hand 4. Not "holding" the leash but have it running across the palm of each hand (I imagine it is how you hold the reins on a horse but since I don't ride, I could be completely wrong) 5. Having your hands positioned roughly parallel and highish but apart. 6. If the dog pulls, stroke the back attaching lead in movements towards your body I had never tried a harness until after attending a T-Touch workshop. Only ever used martingale collars. I found it worked well with my reactive girl (but she's just a tiny dog). She heels beautifully when in obedience class but can be reactive to other dogs on our regular walks on home turf. The harness seems to reduce this reactivity. Di That's what I have been doing. I just walked her on a martingale today and she was 80% better.

Yep it's nice and tight. As soon as the dog get to the ends of the leash she just continues pulling and does it on an angle I have tried pulsating the lead which is on the front of the harness and I have also tried to apply pressure to the back clip in an upward motion and then turn the dog back in towards me but none of those stop her pulling.

My dogs get Kangaroo BARF from Canine Country, it's a non-fatty meat, the dogs do well on it. Some dogs turn their noses up at it as it can be too rich for them.

For those trying out the Thunder Shirt, in most cases it's not an instant thing, the dog needs to keep wearing it in a lot of cases to build up the experience so to speak.

No, the gait is ok - I mean that the dogs, whilst not pulling and otherwise walking quite nicely, were walking on an angle (varying from very slight to quite obvious). I have seen this from time to time with head collars as well. I suspect it is from incorrect handling (eg. handler not being conscientious about giving a loose lead to their dog when they could) and I don't say that I see it often, but the point is it can happen. Ah I see what you mean.

that's funny. I don't use harnesses generally speaking, so I'm not an expert in the different styles (although I know of them). Something I've seen a few times around and about is the dog who has been 'trained' to walk via harness and who has (as a result, I assume) learned to track untrue. I know they work for some, maybe many, but I think we need to be aware of this phenomena when it comes to the front connecting harnesses. How do you mean track untrue? Do you mean an odd gait? I'm thinking this dog just isn't suitable for the front clipping harness.

I had a go last night using different methods, all I got was a dog pulling on an angle LOL

A friends Newfy had it twice, no change, something like $10,000 later.

Why not just stand there and ignore her? Don't move, don't look at her, just hold the lead until the dog settles and stop the moment it happens again.

Yeah I don't support head halters on dogs with handlers who don't know how to use them properly, new families to these foster dogs would need to know how to use them properly. I've had foster dogs been damaged on halters in their previous homes through mis-use so I've quite wary on that front. Black Dog have had this style of collar for many many years, I didn't actually think much of the style at all for hard core pullers as you have no control of the head really. I'll do some research on this one. In reality dogs are simply more suited to some training devices than others. I'm almost tempted to just go back to my check chain LOL

This is just with a little 8 kilo mixed breed pup I don't personaly support Halters in the hands of those who aren't trained properly in using them, the reason for trying the front clipping harness is because when dogs go to their new homes teaching someone how to use a check chain properly can't be done in one session.

Did you find there was a technique as such that worked best?

yeah I'm not finding it any help, more of a hinderance but really trying not to go to the check chain if I can avoid it as I just don't think the new families are usually well timed enough to do it.