Rusky

could it have been a roo?

sporn works well for your needs right now and you can just go out and buy it, around $40. Takes 20kgs off the lunge. Is a great harness to use while you train not to pull thus saving arms, necks and shoulders while you work with loose leash training. Dogs being dogs can work through it so it isn't something you can rely on permanently, you still need to train your dog. In your situation I would be at the shop buying one right now. If you lived here I would loan you one...can anyone do a loan close by?

oh bless I am so pleased he has a good home. He was just too well loved I think. Have you changed his name or kept it? congratulations ps light and mature, chicken frames and bulk out with steamed vegies.

yes absolutely get the free download of 'Before you get a puppy" by Ian Dunbar. Thanks again to whoever it was on here that advised it was free online. Buy 'After you get a puppy' by Ian Dunbar http://www.jamesandkenneth.com/new_puppy.html ( click for free download) Be careful where you go for puppy school, ask around. I actually don't think it matters if you take your puppy to bed but you must be consistant, you can't change your mind when he weighs 30kg We put a basket next to the bed when we have fosters or a new dog. We have always done that with a puppy, plus hotwater bottle and ticking clock under the blanket. I crate train too, crates are fantastic. If you leave your pup alone in a room in a crate then cover the back with a sheet, leave the radio or TV on and a low light. I mean at night. Plus the hot water bottle and a clock.... Good luck with your puppy, you lucky thing... oh and don't bathe your puppy too soon after you get him, he will still have the comforting scent of his mum on him even if he has been bathed by the breeder before you get him.

I would get very annoyed with you too if you kept putting your hands on my dinner when I was eating, she has been tolerant so far.Get her dinner ready now and just hand feed her so she feels no threat of you taking her food away. No bowl in sight. Mix that with making her wait and giving you eye contact before releasing her to her bowl. As you feed her by hand say nothing and don't hold back the food, use half then put the rest in her bowl and give her peace to eat after the wait and release. She thinks you will take her food because you have demonstrated you will, the problem will escalate if you continue the way you have. no kennels here but in 40 years of living with dogs and fostering none have growled or snapped at me or anyone else. Dogs need to eat in peace. Dogs need to trust you.

RIP sweetheart running free now with all the lovely old goldens waiting at the bridge

this thread is great. I wouldn't know if any of it works but I know that all your neighbours think you are nuts.

Northern suburbs hold puppy class from 8 weeks so you will be fine, he will be kept safe. Call them. You can go anywhere with him in your arms. It's a tough one, the socialisation V vaccination. Socialisation is so important, you need to find ways for him to meet some canine friends and take him to as many people/children places you can.

here is the reply

lablover a herding friend of mine wears a whistle constantly, it is always worn, even socially I have noticed I will email and get some answers for you.

From the GSDAWA website

Does the puppy have any opportunity to play with other dogs either in class or anywhere else? Does the owner play with the puppy? Do they bring toys to class as well as yummy treats? Has the puppy been given all it's dinner before class? Is the owner receptive to what you say? I would do as Piipi suggested and use distance rewarding and use the reward based programme petmezz suggested from that distance. I would also ask exactly how the pup behaves at home, it is hard without seeing the pup but it is possible the pup rules the roost at home without any clear boundaries. I would make sure she is using leadership skills at home and that she takes the pup out a lot to parks, schools at letting out time, and busy shopping streets. She should invite people with pups to her home...lots of people and children. Your handler needs to make sure she is not leaving food around when she is not there and yes also check the diet...maybe change to another type. Ask about meetings and greetings, rewards and recalls. Ask her to teach 'settle' at home to find that spot which totally relaxes the dog, reward well for calm manners at home. At home she can use a pr conditioner and make sure all is in place at home that the pup at home understands the linking of treats with good manners, talk about timing. very very important.Sometimes as has been mentioned to me many many times...we can't save the world and sometimes because eventually it is beyond our control one slips through.

chicken frames and necks, chicken mince, vegetables and rice. She does have kibble about half a cup a day.She also has a tin of sardines a week. Rusky is an old girl now and when I realised I had a problem with her I mentioned it to the president of our club...just in passing. I also boarded Rusky with him. He called me up later and said she had never been ill in kennel. I was giving her a well known fairly pricey brand. He gave me a bag of his kibble to try and she was fine.. no more vomiting, no more coarse coat. At that time that kibble was made here in Perth by a chap who most of the breeders bought from. The business now is gone and he stopped making the kibble a long time ago. I then started hit and miss with kibble even leaving it out and using supplements but then I tried supercoat one day and she was fine. I am sure that different kibbles have different additives and I will never know which particular one it was. She is now tolerating light and mature. I have the same problem with chews and treats so make my own liver treats and she is fine with natural purina biscuits.

when you get a gsd join the gsda http://www.gsdawa.org/ in fact call them before you get a dog they will assist you in choosing a pup to suit your needs

we burn protein for energy, so do dogs. you need to troll through stuff I am not comfortable reading though there are also humane experiments. I am positive you are right about additives and preservatives, one of my dogs has to eat a natural diet or she gets sick.I had a child who would go loopy with red food colouring as a toddler. So many colourings in dog food, you would have to wonder about similar responses. I am sure that after much testing the conclusions really are sensible in that any high protein diet ( even in humans) means high energy. The protein reduction I spoke of was from 25 to 20% in the kibble. High energy working dogs obviously require high protein like all athletes. Many dogs sit around in the back yard and get little stimulation or activity despite the odd walk here and there. Those dogs need excercise, plus time and training for the mind and the body. I recently told a lass with a high energy dog to take her dog to the beach, let it off lead and let it run. She was worried the dog might not recall yet her in class recall was great. She took a long line, then got brave and let him off...he did recall, was rewarded and let free again. He now has a daily run on the beach and is much much calmer. He is fed a fresh diet and I didn't even think of protein in her situation, the dog just wanted to run, was meant to run. With all his added excercise he may need an increase in his protein intake. I just really wanted to test the idea about the protein in a certain situation. It was documented so why not try it? However the diet was combined with training and excercise. Vets suggest a low protein diet for types of aggression and anxiety. I am guessing that diet alone would not be a miracle cure but reduction in anxiety and aggression have been noted. It might be worth trying if you have a dog which is anxious and pacing, distracted, jumpy, nervous and leaping on the lead. It can't do any harm at all over a week period, the reduction in protein is not dangerous. I would prefer to try diet before drugs or DAP.I would always combine with a training programme.

yes it does. Heaps of info on the net, suggestion is to have a 20% or less protein diet for anxious or hyperactive dogs. Just had a GSD who went on a low protein diet with an amazing change in anxiety levels after a couple of days.

you can be angry, sometimes we can't help it but use profanities in a sweet talk way, the dog doesn't know you are cross, you sound happy, then you will laugh at yourself and start to relax use baby speak and always reward a recall. Never train if you are out of sorts. Stop training and play for a few minutes, then grab a coffee and read DOL.

shorten the distance and very well done. I have a manic ball chaser so yesterday was asking for the odd drop or sit in play plus a cute bit of heel work. I like to mix play and work. I am thinking as the possum would be play (or drive) that you could get something she would like to play with between work sessions. I mean short work, short play.

If you have a group of reactive dogs working together for a number of weeks at distance I would think they build up the loose pack structure ( for want of a better description) they appear to just as the other groups do. I agree with you completely kelpie and will be very interested in your story when you do this. I have been discussing this clip with people since it was posted, we all agree it is an Ian Dunbar method put into practice and really want to see more. I shoild like to know how long they had been working together and other influences.

so sad for you SP run free dear Spike

fabulous and humbling.

lovely handler and a great dog, thanks for posting

poor little dog RIP so sorry OA

lovely.. just lovely

you need professional help for sure, hopefully someone on here can suggest someone close to your area. Just wondering what sort of dogs they are, if they are big small meduim?