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Rusky

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Everything posted by Rusky

  1. I would think kennel will increase her stress, in fact I would put my neck out and say don't do it. If she is hiding let her come out in her own time, get as many people as you can to come to your place and ignore her completely, she will come out in her own time. Then don't make any fuss, you need to ask visitors to cooperate with you. Whatever you do don't tug her out from her safe place, leave her alone, let her build her confidence with people. She is giving you all the signals that she is afraid, she needs to learn to trust people...making her will make it worse. When you pass people in the street, just let her stop and look away, soon as she is comfortable move on. I wouldn't probably walk her till she is perfectly happy with anyone who comes to your place then pop her in the car and go to a park where people are and just reward her if she is settled. Do that often unless she is stressed till she is comfortable with people at a distance...let her hide under tables...she will come out...she will learn to trust if you don't force her.
  2. I had a friend who was a vegan, her dog was fed a vegetarian diet,he suffered from all sorts of problems which may or may not have been due to his diet. He could often be seen scavanging (in the days of free roam) in bins and compost heaps.He was not skinny, was in fact a fat little dog but he could roll a dustbin in a second. The vet spoke to her a few times about diet and I tried too to no avail. I felt desperately sad for the little dog. Dogs need meat and bones though I guess in this day and age there are products on the market to provide the high protein needs. I do feel though that it it unfair and possibly even cruel to put your own moral and ethical standards regarding diet on an animal.The dog I am speaking of did not live a long life, his coat always looked coarse and it should have been soft. His teeth were awful. He ate any carion he came across in his daily hunt, so HE wasn't a vegetarian was he?
  3. bring them in at night, get your boys desexed.
  4. The other big problem with chain leads is if you are holding the lead by the chain (such as when you want the lead short and the dog close to you) and the dog takes off they can do some serious damage to your hands. that is why she needs the half leather half chain lead when walking. Erny I know what you are saying...the dog needs to break the habit, with a chain lead it will very quickly. A good quality lead will not snap, we use them for dogs who are strong large breeds which have learned to grab the lead and tear it in a flash ...at the shelter... Never had a stuck tooth, they give up very quickly. Still it is just a suggestion which I know works without any fuss or nasty tastes which the dog may react to.
  5. if your dog is biting the lead then right now use a chain lead with a long leather handle. I can't find a picture right now. The lead clips to the collar like a regular lead but has about a foot of chain then leather and leather handle. Dog can't bite chain, soon as he is out of the habit switch to your soft lead of preference. It is just a bad habit which becomes self rewarding.
  6. have a look at this http://www.petplace.com/dogs/dog-to-dog-co...tion/page1.aspx will give you an idea if you want to buy the book or not
  7. 8 weeks should be perfect and she should have bite inhibition. I am guessing that the puppies all used the same force on each other and Mum to an acceptable level (not for a 2 yr old though) I wondered if she was a very young pup that had not learned bite inhibition, that's all. Nylabone can be bought at city farmers and places, they have all sorts of flavours too. I use them when I have young dogs here. http://www.nylabone.com/products/non-edibl...flavor-bone.htm I find staffies love them the most which is why I mentioned it. They aren't cheap and not totally indestructable but should help with those needle teeth along with teaching the no reward marker.
  8. teach reward and no reward markers reward the nano second your pup is doing the right thing with 'good' pats and food non reward marker ... feed treats to your puppy, small tasty morsels. Stop. hold the food in your fist, your pup will try to grab the food. Say aahha or wrong and only release the food when your pup is sitting in a composed position not straining or reaching for your hand. In that nano second you say GOOD and release the reward. You will need masses of patience. You need to practice the excercise regularly and also reward games. Wait for your pup to offer the right behaviour. I mean don't say 'wrong' or no no or whatever continually just exactly at the time the puppy grabs the food. If your pup does something non desirable once he has learned the no reward marker you can just use the 'wrong' or 'aahhaa' You must teach and do the excercise several times a day, he won't get it in one day. You will need to reinforce regularly too. I am interested in how old your puppy was when he left his Mum and where you got him from. You need to make sure that your daughter is safe with him. I would only allow totally supervised meetings till you have his nipping under control. Of course Noodlenut gave perfect alternative chew toys to your child but your puppy needs to learn our language and you need to learn his. Child is wrong...toy is good reinforce with praise and treats. Oh and get a nylabone, they don't taste as good as a child :D but staffies in particular seem to love them
  9. yes exactly. Go and buy proper dog fence or farmlite and also gate your washing area. A flimsy fence would never stop him, it is a game and a very rewarding one, he is having such a lot of fun with the challenges. Personally I would make a decent barrier and also not leave pegged washing when I leave the house.
  10. so sorry for you all run free now Ruby
  11. they aren't clients in a dog club cosmolo. Insurance is non existant in a dog club. I would imagine that whichever club it is are just taking care of their people. There is no insurance for dog bite.There is the usual insurance as there is in any sports club... All the trainers I know at all the clubs I know handle the dogs. They aren't clients though, they are club members just like the rest of us.
  12. just wondering why you got the dogs in the first place? Your dogs are bored and untrained. They have little positive physical and mental stimulation. Get those runners on, take them to the beach, take them to training,let them into your life or contact a rescue group. The photos are gone but the text is sufficient. Harsh? yep
  13. ok I thought about this question after I had replied to it for ages and eventually emailed a very experienced and very well known breeder, trainer, judge, specialty judge of GSD. Whilst she agrees that a back pack is brillant for your dog it must be (hopefully from a breeder) Xrayed at one year? So if not from a breeder then take to the vet first. A pack will strengthen muscles and improve fitness...however you will have to match it as your dog becomes fitter and stronger here is an excerpt from the email please pay particular attention to the down side next bit from the email, as I asked her about play for your dog I hope this has been of some help to you
  14. I am not sure I would put one on a GSD. I have one for Rusky but she is a malamute and she only carries light stuff anyway which wouldn't really increase the load. I only use it in winter. You can get them here, look at link http://www.ozpetshop.com.au/product_info.p...roducts_id/1754 It doesn't take too long to throw a ball in the backyard. I think it would be a much better idea. Your dog should be fully developed for the breed. I think that is age 2 for a GSD but as I say I wouldn't put one on a GSD, I would ask some other experienced owners of the breed before you buy.
  15. full article here http://www.muttspace.com.au/cms/index.php?...4&Itemid=40 I like haltis and gentle leaders but would never fit one on a small breed. They should simply not be made to fit tiny dogs.
  16. hate them and use a long line lead in semi off lead areas. Retractables are unsafe and should be melted down in the same pile that the choke chains are melted. Did someone say "used with a halti" the mind boggles...poor dog edited to add... sorry Anita didn't see you have a bonfire already... I have a few more things to add too
  17. My spidey sense is telling me this is possibly it: http://www.flyingdogpress.com/sayhi.html The other articles on FDP are really great too, well worth a read. brilliant article
  18. dogs don't notmally pee on each other or people they mark the spot the last dog peed...is he doing that? I would take your dog to a vet first to make sure he doesn't have a urinary tract problem, then listen to your trainer, complete the course and then if you are unhappy that the course has not helped then ask here for help otherwise you will get too many conflicting ideas and methods. Stick with what your trainer is telling you assuming she knows whats what and knows how to train dogs...anyone can be a dog trainer, or rather say they are however having read the stuff you have posted it all seems to be ok but I wonder if you may not have understood all that is being told to you... I have never heard of planetK9 some amazing names for dog training these days I don't live in your state obviously. Does she teach a no reward marker? just interested is all oh BTW when he does pee in the right place wait till he has finished and then praise him. I call it last drop praise...if you praise during a pee a dog which is anxious may stop half way through because the link between praise and acceptable desired behaviour has not yet clicked with your dog.
  19. doesn't belong to Simone... she might want to join in the raffle too Usually we sell them but have an idea to raffle and give half profit to a fundraiser.We aren't selling them all just a couple. they are spiral wired,like the tunnels. I think but can't remember that it was Mel who first told me he did that for his shepherds, since then I have seen the bins at other hardware stores too, maybe crazy clarkes? might be cheaper and for little dogs they are fine.
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