Jed

This. I've never found a snappy or timid Cocker ever. I tried to help rehome one and the dog had what they call "Cocker rage", it wasn't nice behaviour - the dog was from a registered breeder. I've met many lovely Cockers though so important to find a very good breeder. Are you sure it was "Cocker Rage" and not a badly treated, untrained, out of control alpha dog ensuring he had his way? AFAIK, the Cocker breeders desexed, and prevented breeding of any dogs from "cocker rage" families about 40 years ago, and I think it is most unlikely there would be any dog with that problem now. Dogs are often diagnosed, incorrectly, with cocker rage, when that is not the problem.

Are you aware of exactly how many pure dog breeds there are? As far as I know, the ANKC and the working dog registries take care of breeds in development. What kind of strict body did you have in mind?

www.budgetpetproducts.com.au

I have Cocker Spaniels, and Cavaliers. Don't have American Cockers, but do know some. For showing Cavaliers are the least grooming. Trimming is not allowed. They need brushing a few times a week, and the hair on the pads trimming. Cockers need more grooming, and trimming. American Cockers, imho, need more grooming and trimming still. The majority of Cockers are nice natured and very good with children. Often when problems arise, it is from either bad breeding, or because the owners have treated them like fluffy puppies, and forgotten they are, at heart, a working dog, and do need some boundaries. Apart from that I agree with what Dr. Wundahoo has said about Cockers. Temperament is different in Cockers and Cavaliers, one is not better or worse, just different - there are more health problems in Cavaliers. Also it will be easier to buy a show quality Cocker.

Looks like an American Bulldog (johnson) to me. Unfortunately a lot of these dogs available are not well bred from stable and trustworthy parents, and many are not owned by responsible and civic minded people. So sad for all concerned. Leash laws would be a good beginning.

Frightful. Poor lady. But, once again, no one has bothered to find out why this dog attacked, so there is no new knowledge which may help others avoid attacks in future.

I used these collars for a while. Apart from the problem with the dogs chewing each others' collars, my vet said he saw a tick dog with 2 ticks under the collar, and one of my dogs had a tick on her ear when wearing the collar. I think paralysis ticks are much tougher than some other ticks (not sure about your USA ticks) but if the collars are working for you and you are happy with them, good. I am not dissing what you say, just relating my experiences with Preventic.

I used to use it years ago - for about 20 years. It definitely works, and does not cause the problems some other treatments for heartworm cause. Use it with confidence.

I have no idea whether essential oils would act as tick preventatives or not. There is proven research for chemicals which repel ticks. As far as I can see, there are no peer reviews for EO and ticks. It is possible to say anything on the internet and swear it is gospel, as no one has any means of checking. I live in an area with lots of paralysis ticks. I use Advantix, and a daily physical check. I would love to use something effective which was cheaper than Advantix. But I wouldn't risk my precious dogs' lives because of something I read on the net. It's good to read these things, and discover more about them, but when the dog's life is at stake, you do need some peer reviews, or some objective research. Feeding the dog sulphur is reputed to prevent ticks and fleas too. Proof?

I used to mind a Labrador when his owners went on holidays. He would stay at my house. No problem; a lovely dog, always fitted in, he never made any attempt to escape. He was happy, ate well, interacted well, generally fitted in and had a great time On the day they were due to returne, he would somehow escape and trek about 8k home, and be sitting in the garden or the footpath when they arrived. Didn't matter whether they went for 2 days, or a week, or 2 weeks, the routine was always the same. He left in the morning, as soon as he was let out for toilet. If I watched him, he would wait until my attention wasn't on him. He didn't deviate - straight home and wait. He often left before they had even left their destination. Dogs know more than we credit them with.

Because that is more profitable. You surely don't believe they bought dog food manufacturers coz they love liddle doggies? Or they wanted to make a bit more profit on another line? Well, they did, but they make a lot more with the current regs.

Congenital or hereditary? There is a big difference. And I do think it would have been better if the breeder had been communicative. As to the OP - impossible to give an opinion.

Pups look like Heinz 57 varieties to me, I don't think they even have the same father. This legislation sucks. So cruel, so stupid. And, no, it hasn't reduced dog bites. Disarming the population would stop gun crimes, Mr. Howard said. Gun crime stats are up.

Makes good economic sense for a food manufacturer to own a pet food business. All the old/spoiled/out of date human food can go into the dog food. They can then make money out of it, instead of throwing it out. And there is no checks on what is in dog food.

Congratulations. The little mummy looks as pleased as Punch too!! Hope everything goes well for you. Such an exciting time.

The microfilaria take 4 months to develop into worms. On that basis, it should be safe not to give any heartworm protection during pregnancy if you are concerned about it. I am not sure, but your medication may destroy microfilaria. You could also give Dimmotrol - daily tablet, which has been used for years, and as far as I know, is safe.

But Krislin do you use a light source to have the eye so visible?

Rejection is one thing, a bitch that kills pups is another. Maybe I've just learned from people who put stricter parameters on what they find acceptable in a breeding bitch. And maybe those people didn't have a real appreciation of the true situation, and acted too soon. Who knows? Some breeds are renowned for killing their pups, and I would certainly be wary of a member of this breed. However, caesarians + low calcium = stress problems, one of which can be killing the pups. Be a shame to throw away a good bitch because the breeder thinks there is a problem. Important to know why this is happening. And extremely difficult for a first time breeder to cope with this. Can also be very difficult for vets to cope as well. Half them don't know about this either Supervision and calcium, as previously mentioned, is important. If the bitch still wanted to bite them in a week, I would rethink the situation, and yes, would not breed with the bitch again, but if she did it for the first few days, it could be simply due to stress, so I would try for a resolution first.

Nekhbet, the bitch may not be a problem. There might be concern with some breeds, but rejection of the pups is not uncommon after ceasarians in most breeds. I think most of mine have not welcomed the pups - it seems to take them a bit of time to get their heads around the situation. Then, next whelping, they are switched on, and do a great job. I wouldn't dream of leaving a bitch after a caesarian with pups for at least 24 hours, maybe 48!! No matter how sweet and mild she seemed. You need some experience and patience to get a caesared bitch who doesn't understand about the pups to accept them, and I would never not breed with a bitch who rejected a first litter. It is also very easy, if you don't have a lot of experience, and your vet is ditto, to give up and hand feed the pups, when the bitch would have done it, if you had the knowledge and expertise to put and keep the pups on her. :) And I am not criticising the breeder. This is a difficult situation all round, and very difficult for a novice breeder. Some bitches wake up and say "Well, where are my lovely children?" and others wake up and say "What the HELL are those funny looking smelly things making all that noise?" Having pups is a good and natural thing for bitches ; having a caesarian isn't.

Purebred black pups are harder to sell too. And having failed with a lot of photos of blacks, I have worked out that you need the light shining directly on the dog, or the features are just a black blob. Unfortunately, you get things like muddy noses too!! :laugh:

Take the pups to the vet Change feed for them to Wombaroo (can order over the net). Wombaroo Puppy Milk is dog specific, Divetelact is not specific, and imho, not as good. Change from Divetelact gradually. It is also possible to buy frozen colostrum ... it appears they have not had any from the mother, and it is difficult to get them to thrive without it. Science seems to have proven the colostrum can be fed after the first couple of days with good effect. Get vet to show how to tube feed. Ask how often (4 hourly is usually enough) If not feed 2 hourly. Feed daily amount shown on tin/box but 2 hourly instead of 3 - 4 If pups are sick now; no milk. Keep whelping box + 24 degrees. Give boiled (and cooled) water with a little glucose. Give the bitch liquid calcium. Bitches who have had caesarians often have no idea what has happened. They went to sleep and woke up, their stomachs hurt, and they are surrounded by little rat like things which are attacking their mammaries. This is more likely to happen with a first litter So the bitch is stressed. Liquid calcium can reduce stress. If possible, put pups on bitch, prevent bitch hurting them, soothe and encourage bitch. Continue to do this every few hours. Take pups away when they have finished drinking. Keep giving calcium to bitch. This may encourage bitch to accept them, which will make a life a lot easier - and the hormones the bitch produces will encourage her milk to come down, and help to keep her calmer. Mostly they will then accept pups. No idea what breed, some are better than others. Ensure a warm damp cloth etc is used to wipe pups' anus and penis or vulva to encourage urination and defecation after each feed. They can't do it by themselves. Pull up skin on the back of neck to check dehydration -- note it wont return immediately in new borns, but it should return to flat without too much delay. Good luck!! Incidentally, I am not a great fan of giving too many extras when hand feeding pups. I have found mine do ok without, and there are so many things you CAN feed it is entirely possible to overload their systems, and give them more problems, in my opinion. It seems the vet is not over- experienced with bitches and whelps, and it might be better to try to borrow a good book from the library or check on the internet for better advice. Not saying he is not a good vet, but vets are not breeders.

When cavaliers are adult, they easily adapt to most situations. I sometimes lose my balance (result of injuries and coma) and fall - or almost fall. Cavaliers rush under the coffee table where they are safe (although I never fall on them), which is great, as I would hate to hurt one.

I can't recommend a dry food - I fed my dog which needed low fat on raw meat (beef, roo, chicken) with fruit and veges put through the food processor and added to the meat. But .. some of the larger pet shops/produce do sell almost out of date dry food at a very good rate, and you can usually buy it weekly. City Farmers, try Petstock, or some of the other larger ones, and as has been suggested, check out the fat % on the pack. I couldn't find anything low fat enough, but things have changed since then.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. I have sold many to single dog homes, they are as happy as, provided they are allowed inside (on the bed is good) and treated properly. They don't need a great deal of training, they simply move in and train you!! But if you want to train one, they excel in agility, obedience, and all sorts of amazing things. They should have straight, easy to handle coat - a brush (as Cavnrott suggests, a slicker is good) a couple of times a week, check behind the ears for tiny knots, a bath when dirty. Small and agreeable enough to lie around all the time, agile enough for a run every day when adult, if the owner is so inclined. Fabulous temperament, love to make friends, great with children. Delightful personalities. What more could she want? A GOOD responsible breeder who can show heart clear certificates, and who has a good knowledge of the breed, can demonstrate what s/he has done about luxating patellas, and whether s/he knows about CC, EF, Dry Eye and Syringomyelia. Not necessarily test for those things, but knows about them, and can say why s/he does or does not test. Also a Schipperke --- I don't breed them, as I do Cavaliers, but they are great little dogs. Some are a bit stand offish with strangers, but bond really well with their owners. They are great watchdogs - the ones I know are not too barky - but they would let her know if someone was there. Fabulous natures, and they seem to particularly love children. I don't think the retirement village would like anything other than a small dog, so am not suggesting anything else. Shah-tzu's are fabulous little dogs, eminently suitable - but the floor sweeping hair could be a problem -- they would need to be regularly clipped off. Tibetian Spaniel - should be fine, not sure about the grooming requirements. Miniature poodle - fabulous, but different from the above, but again, need clipping off, as do Bichons. I personally think a terrier would be a bit too terrier like for the environment, but could be wrong. Dacshunds would also suit - very devoted to their owners - although they do shed that short coats, and the longs do need some grooming. Go to a dog show .... have a look at those breeds, maybe talk to some of the breeders to find out a bit more about the breeds. I'd rock up about lunch time, most of the classes are finished by then, but people are waiting for group --- but before you talk to them, ask if they have finished showing. "older lady - 50". Really, 50 is the new 20. 80 is "older lady" these days - and only those who have let themselves go, and some movie stars with bad botox or a too-tight lift!

If you have met a mini Schnauzer and liked it, why not get one? Ask the people who own it where they got it. Failing that, contact breeders, and try to talk to them for a while. Find out how much they know about the breed, why they breed, how long they have been breeding, and how they feel about the dogs. Also check with the WACA that they are actually members. DO not buy an unregistered Schnauzer. Good choice, great little dog. Smart as can be.