Scrappi&Monty

As mentioned above, going to some training classes would be good. Even just an obedience class on the weekends for a few months. BUT also do some research to teach yourself at least the basics of how dogs think, behave and learn, so then you can apply that to dog ownership, it will help in the long run. Have a look on YouTube at: -Grisha Stewart -Zak George & -Kikopup There should be videos which apply to your situation. They have been very helpful to me.

Holy moly. Learn something new every day! We live near Maitland, never knew there were dingoes about here. Our house is the last house in the suburb, and backs onto turf farms, and sheep/cow/horse/alpaca/goat/pig paddocks haha. I wonder if the farmers here ever get dingo problems. I reckon how rare it would be in the Maitland area they shouldn't bother baiting, too cruel! Too risky as well for dogs (and probably people and livestock too, it can't be healthy to hang around poison...) I understand the need to get dingo pop under control in some areas with say massive cattle properties, but I do disagree with it... really the dingo was here first, and wiping them out is just going to stuff up the food chain and allow more rabbits etc. also no-one to eat the feral cats which in turn eat all the little native rodents & birds. but at the same time the dingoes to brutally injure the livestock at times and devastate farmers.

That's awful! 1080 is horrible stuff so sorry for your loss Persephone! I live in the Hunter too, we are semi-rural, and no dingoes around here, (though I saw a little fox hopping across the paddock yesterday) but I didn't know they baited dingoes in the valley. I know they can be a pest, but they were here first Even though foxes & dingoes are pests, one 'pestier' than the other, I still have a little soft spot for them....

No you can't legally....? It's to illegal to dock tails and crop ears in Australia...

So sorry for your loss

Apparently you can't legally buy Australian green tripe anymore. I have never been able to source it so I didn't notice, but it has been off the shelves since last year. Supposedly the safe food regulation people thought that humans might eat it (not sure why?) so therefore it can't be sold as "PET FOOD ONLY" Very weird.

I'm thinking of making up a proper first aid kit for the dogs, and was just wondering what kinds of things you all think are worthwhile having. Maybe vet wrap, medicine syringes and any previous medications, a little first aid guide (in case someone else has to look after them), vet's phone numbers, hydrogen peroxide (apparently used to induce vomiting in emergencies?), Benadryl (for allergic reactions? Monty is allergic to bees), asprin (for Scrappi when he gets achy), flea & worm meds, a tick twister, and antibacterial cream. Also maybe a note with the dosages. Any opinions on the above? Also what would you add?

Better quality products with more range and if possible not as overpriced as you see in Petbarn (and similar shops). I feel like some of the bigger brand shops have poorer quality products with less range in brands, but a much higher price. I would be willing to pay a little more for really good quality products.

Oh that's awful! I don't have a cat, but was actually sort of considering adopting one last year and thought that that food looked quite good! Apparently not.

bahahaha! Cheeky monkey jumping in the bath, that would be a scene!

I'm not 100% sure what you mean, but I'll go with what I think you mean We feed dinner around 6:00-7:30, then I'll leave them out if they want to sniff around the yard, but they usually sit on the back step to come inside. Then they are inside with us most of the time from then. They stay out longer in Summer. If we are cooking, and they keep trying to come in the kitchen after warnings, we put them out, and often they stay out while we eat our dinner. After dinner they will have a nap on their beds inside near us, then around 9:30-10:30 when we go to bed we will put them out for a quick wee, then they are in to bed. Monty usually will want to go out at 6:30-8:30am for a wee in the mornings.

Mowgli&Me; just read what you said about the hair near the eyes, I suppose the hair on the side of her face at eye level could be blocking her periferal vision a tad, which might mess up her balance and spatial awareness? Perhaps keeping that short could help a little? I'd have a go and see if it makes a difference.

Oh I wish I could foster!! My heart is constantly trying to figure out ways I could foster but my head knows that realistically I shouldn't at the moment. I could potentially foster baby pups but I figure they are all adults? I would be reluctant to foster adults due to one of my dogs having reactivity issues with new dogs, and also probably even if they do get on well I wouldn't want to leave a new dog unsupervised with mine, just until they get to know each other and sort out who's who, just to be sensible and cautious. Could possibly transport though, whereabouts are you based? I might be able to (do you mean just in a regular car?) if you are in the Sydney or Hunter Valley area.

Hmm, they should probably disclaim that... It's like when we were using Sentinel a few years ago (or interceptor (?) can't remember which is which) It says kills several different worms and fleas. It says in tiny fine print that it doesn't kill adult fleas, only the younger stages, which I'd read at one stage but must've forgotten. We have never seen a flea on Scrappi, but he kept getting flare ups of itchiness and sore skin in Spring. The vet thought it was seasonal allergies for ages until the next Spring she found a tiny bit of flea dirt on his back. Turns out fleas had jumped on, bitten and jumped off, probably living in the grass and dogs who he sees, but since he is so allergic to flea saliva he was reacting really badly with dermatitis. Since I'd never seen fleas on him, and I thought he was covered with flea treatment, and since the vet told me it was grass allergies I thought nothing more of it (until we realised of course) So now we use Advantage instead... (and with good food & coconut oil) we haven't had any issues since

I got a catalogue (aka cattledog ) from I think PetBarn (or My Pet Warehouse, or something... one of the yellow ones hahaha) with ads for it but haven't yet investigated.

I haven't used any kennels sorry so I can't help with that. But we're in the Hunter area so potentially might know someone who could petsit. How long for? Do you need a boarding kennel or could he stay with someone? You could check out one of the pet sitting websites (Like MadPaws, I haven't used that before but looks ok)

As Showdog said, perhaps you could get a family member/friend/neighbour/colleagueor someone to look after him for half the time, or a few weeks. And then board for the rest? Or perhaps if worst comes to worst someone could mind him for 2-3weeks, someone else for 2-3 weeks and then board for the rest??

Just had a check online, (the Basenji VIC website) They are quite a primitive, very old breed from Central Africa and are not as domesticated as other dogs. So, similarly to wolves & dingoes their vocal chords to not allow them to bark, instead they make funny noises and 'yodel' (usually when super excited or if they get caught doing something naughty) Basically they aren't an easy dog because they aren't quite as domesticated as most other breeds. They can be quite 'dominant', stubborn, curious, high-energy & independent and do what they want rather than trying to please their owner. Also some more facts; - They are quite cat-like; they hate being dirty so will groom themselves so they rarely smell or need baths. - If they are loose, they will try to chase cars (they are a hunting sighthound and scenthound used to chase game animals into nets.) - Very strong prey-drive; will climb fences and most likely won't come when called if they are chasing something.

If I remember correctly they are quite a unique breed in terms of personality, and they aren't the type for a first time owner (not that I'm a first time owner though of course haha) . I will go to a bit of googling to refresh my memory

Yeah I had a look at their website just out of curiosity (I know I could never own a Basenji but they are lovely looking dogs!) I noticed the two others available. I didn't even realise these girls were 'senior'! But yeah I'd say that could be why.

Sorry I can't help much, but he's a cutie!!

I was just having a look on Petrescue and saw two purebred Basenji girls available for adoption and thought I'd share on here because that isn't something you see everyday https://www.petrescue.com.au/listings/527939 https://www.petrescue.com.au/listings/528253

In terms of biting your hands & clothes, I doubt that would be aggressive, more like natural puppy play. Aggressive would be if he was snarling and showing angry body language, you ignored that and then he bit you viciously. I doubt (and hope) that isn't the case Sounds like pup just needs to learn that playing with other dogs is different to playing with humans. My two dogs like to roughhouse and do silly wrestling and chew eachother's legs/faces etc, but they know to be soft. And they know that they can't nip or chew me (or any human for that matter). Some of the more experienced trainers on DOL hopefully will come and give you some help. But pretty much if he is chewing and nipping people, maybe the first few times it happens, swap your hand for a toy to chew on instead. If that doesn't work and he is being hyper and keeps doing it, a firm 'NO' or 'OUCH' and stand up, ignore him and leave him alone to calm down and stop being silly. He should learn that if he nips/chews people, they will get sad/mad and will stop the game. In terms of the books, if possible keep them up high, or block them off so he can't get them perhaps? If you catch him in the act you can "No!" But because dogs tend to not understand why you are upset at them if it has been more than a few seconds since they did the 'naughty' thing, only tell him 'no' if you catch him doing it. Does he have plenty of safe toys to chew on?

BARF and sardines are good Personally I'm not too sure about Royal Canin but if it works for you and your dog that's good, just go with what your breeder says while he's a pup My dogs get kibble for breakfast and some variation of "raw" for dinner. Either BARF, raw Chicken drumsticks/wings, or homemade raw mix (For it to be balanced, you should meet a ratio of 80:10:10 of meat:bone:organ.) It isn't necessary that every meal is to this ratio, but it is best to balance it over a week or so. In our house we feed the bones for one dinner, and then a mix of meat & liver for the next dinner. When your Lab is fully grown it would be feasible to balance the one meal since Labs are quite big. Say maybe 1 chicken drumstick, 1 chicken liver, and fill the rest of the meal out with meat. (And extras if you like.) check out http://www.raw4dogs.com/calculate.htm http://perfectlyrawsome.com/pmr-barf-dog-cat-raw-feeding-calculators/ For meats we get cheap lamb or pork offcuts and cut that off the bone, and then add either chicken hearts, chicken giblets, lamb hearts, beef hearts, or any other meat, and then for the organs I give a very little piece of chicken or lamb liver. All of this you can buy at woolies. We just buy a few weeks worth and portion it out into meal-sized plastic tubs and freeze it, defrosting the night before as needed. To add on top of kibble you could try; - a whole raw egg (incl. shell is fine, dogs will usually eat it) once a week or so, not too often. - fruit & veg safe for dogs such as carrots, sweet potato, banana, apple (no seeds), blueberries, leftover strawberry tops (my dog's fave) - a spoonful of plain sugar free yoghurt or a little cottage cheese (special treat only) -a teaspoon of coconut oil (healthy and delicious to dogs!! This is the best on the list I think) - sardines as you mentioned, sometimes a little bit of tuna (in water)

Oh I thought Steve was a bloke haha. Oops! Sorry!