Erny

If trialling judges really wanted to evidence the proofing of the dog-competitor, couldn't they randomly dictate to the handler what they wanted them to do? IE Put your hands on your head; put your hands in front; put your hands behind; or in the OP's case do a chicken dance or nutbush? Wouldn't this then encourage people to REALLY proof their dogs for 'real life' situations, rather than merely for ring work? The way I see it (flame suit on) there are dogs with all sorts of Titles but who's reliability outside of the ring could well leave a lot to be desired in comparison with a dog who is trained not for trialling but for 'real life out-there' situations. Shouldn't "Titles" reflect the overall standard of reliability - not just standard of reliability in very stringent 'ring' conditions?

I know you said you "panicked" but I'd avoid doing that (assuming I have imagined your description correctly). Squirting the hose directly towards the back of the dog's throat could cause water to go into the lungs. Cane Toads : I know "they're coming" but I'm so glad Melbourne don't have them.

Thank you for re-visiting with your feedback. Manytimes threads are born as a result of troubles/queries and it isn't all that often that the OP comes back to let us know results or progress (whether applied through advice via DOL or not). Glad things are beginning to head in the right direction and that you are enjoying your training activities. ;)

Cosmolo .... another thought - if your dog/s have issues with certain objects, why not practice these at home in your own way and once they have become accustomed, then travel along with the regime of a good agility club? Or has that already been suggested? Wouldn't that stop the hassel of conflict between the way instructors train -vs- the way you feel you need to for your dogs?

I did have the contact, but I think committee duties/roles have altered since. If you can't find out post here again and I'll get a contact name and number for you. I'm not sure of the protocol they follow, but if you let them know you were at Action Dogs and tell them what level you attained, they may take that into account. To my knowledge many of the executive committee and instructors there belong and participate at Action Dogs as well. Even if they don't, it shouldn't take you long to demonstrate your dogs' skills and sail through expediently to the skill level you are at.

True. The problem with "doing own thing" is also the possible ramification on the Club's insurance, in the event of an accident - to dog; owner/handler; instructor; and/or other members. ETA: The other problem with "doing own thing". It might be well and good for Cosmolo to do it. But others will see this and argue they should be allowed too. If they're not allowed, then it becomes a matter of discrimination. If they are allowed, but aren't sufficiently knowledgeable or wise, things can get out of control.

Yes they are .... but they're getting some pretty good results. And there are instructors there who really know their stuff.

Which level did you get to? I know they have staggered hours for the various levels to ensure as best as possible, sufficient room in the shed. Not sure what time what level is on anymore - I used to run their "pre-membership temperament/control assessments" but haven't done that for at least 12 months as Wednesday nights got too busy for me. So things might have changed since then.

I understand difficulties associated with time and distance. But for the sake of knowing you'd be seeing a person who already has testimonials of plenty of successes, you might find (even with the travel involved) that it will cost you less and take less time than elsewise. Saying the above, I admit I don't know how far it is from Canberra to Kurrajong. Is Steve Austin any closer? ETA: It does sound like you are permitting him to breach reaction threshold. Because thresholds can change due to fluidity of environments, this can be difficult to determine and training for behaviour modification needs to be done in a controlled environment. It's easier when someone who knows can show you.

TangerineDream ...... I could be oh so wrong, but this is sounding like seizure activity to me. But please - it might well be something more simple and I'd hate to be the one who has caused undue concern.

I won't profess to being perfect here either!!! But at least be aware of it and that that time/s when you received non-compliance means you need to go back a step and train up for reliability. It's when we lose sight of what we do and how it has affected training/reliability that causes us to allow training to slip backwards too far and also to eventually wonder why, how and when it went out the window. ;) By the sounds of it you're doing pretty well.

Difficult to answer unless I knew what you were doing at home. Has she learnt that at home (during general interaction) that what you say isn't necessary what has to go? Has this broken down her generalisation in training? And could this be the point of inconsistency that's caused/causing it? Even when you use the taught obedience skills around the home, releases should still follow as well as reward. As to the level of reward and its schedule (ie consistant; intermittent) depends on the level of training she is up to. But be mindful that IF you are going to use a command, you need to be in a position to enforce it. Manytimes that's where people fall down .... they tell the dog "sit" or "out of the kitchen" but because they are not in a position to do anything about it (or it is too awkward for them to do so), they are not prepared for when the dog doesn't comply. Compliance/reliability can be increased by short bursts of training (on lead for control if necessary) in the back yard and as another poster here has suggested, in various rooms throughout the house, as well as in the front yard, etc. etc. This is called "generalisation". Oh - and hey! You picked up on the "look at thyself" bit pretty quickly. Can you get someone (even someone already at training but not busy with a dog) to do you a favour and video tape you? Problem with that is we're quite often so consciencious about the fact we're being taped, that we behave differently anyway ;) . But it can help and I do think it is worthwhile. Even the top Olympic horse competitors need someone on the ground to coach and critique them.

Something to look at from a different angle ....... Is it you who is beginning to tire (doesn't have to be boredom - could be physically or mentally) at training? Flattening out in your responses/focus/enthusiasm? This could have a bearing on the digging behaviour which is exhibited and which in itself can lend towards the boredom of the dog (assuming boredome is a cause for the digging). Is your dog clear on what you are asking? Digging can be a displacement behaviour in times of confusion. Are you perhaps not as consistant with your training at home as you are at obedience school?

Sorry - I don't think I know anything of the drug you're talking about. I'm sure there will be others who will respond and provide more information/help than I. But as to the above, can you not lay some plastic down and/or limit her house access to non-carpeted areas of the house to protect your floor (I presume this is what you are concerned about) until whatever condition you are treating is under control? Whatever her illness, I hope she feels stronger soon.

I'd prefer to give a teaspoon of active manuka honey to sooth a throat (and help boost immune system) than I would cream or icecream. It REALLY works AND its GOOD for them. And us. ETA: Purchase Active Manuka Honey from a Health Food Shop. It's more expensive but that's usually because you're not getting the watered down variety (and therefore less effective, if effective at all) that you might get from supermarkets.

Hi LL. Welcome back from your week of training ....... has a whole week gone by already? Time flies!!! I agree wholeheartedly with what you say here. Know your dog and only build to match what your dog can cope with. IMO, I'd be working not only on my stays, but also to desensitise to the 'aversive' sounds of others.

Ness - an awesome effort on both your parts. 16 runs!!! Don't know how you eventually don't get the order of all the runs mixed up in your head? Understand how it can be so disappointing - one split second, one slightly wrong or late turn of a shoulder etc. etc. But you both did so well and you should be proud that you got as far as you did. My friend would have been at the Nationals too. Waiting for news how she faired. I think she was turning the trip away into a slightly extended holiday, so I presume she and her dog are busy relaxing at the moment. He is a "Masters" qualified dog and I presume would be competing in Open, Masters and Excellent. Well done to you both. Fantastic job.

A solid foundation of early socialisation may well stand Indi in good stead. Without that, Indi may be worse than she is now, or you might find that rehabilitation is more difficult, time consuming and less successful. So don't despair on it being lost - thank heavens it is there to act as a cushion/buffer for the unfortunate incident that has occurred and pat yourself on your back for ensuring that you instilled it in the first place. Not sure exactly where you mean ...... but I would unhesitatingly recommend Four Paws K9 Training (PM Kelpie-i). She is over Keilor Park way. I could help if you were interested, but the distance might be a bit awkward.

No ..... she'd be perceiving the tension through the lead to signal that you too think there's something to worry about. That, and possibly combined with the feeling of entrapment. No chance of flight, so she'll fight. Doing nothing about the behaviour doesn't help either. The other dog goes away and Indi thinks it is because of the way she reacted. Must have been ..... she remained unharmed, right? Get my drift? There are ways of dealing with this. Your behaviourist will be able to show you after he/she has worked out what is the best method for Indi.

Yes, this can happen. It can also be exacerbated by the owner (eg. when you tense and apply tension to the lead) and without proper management can become learnt and habitual. Based on your description, yes. Great attitude all round, Indi. :mad

;) Hair gel.

HERE's a link to a thread in "general" from a while back on this subject. ;)

In many cases that would be the result of ineffective corrections (ETA: and perhaps inadequate/badly timed rewards). I have seen the same thing with verbal corrections as well. Edited ...... because IMO corrections are only a small part of training - IF they are applied timely and effectively. ;)

Personally I think it's best to have behaviour modification methods shown and explained BEFORE you try them. This way it can be pointed out to you when the VERY EARLY signs of aggression begin .... or more particularly, help you identify when your dog is beginning to think about acting aggressively. THEN is the time to act, not later, but maybe even sometimes earlier. Aggression is complex and there is no "one-size" fits all method of approach to changing the behaviour. What might have worked for one (or even more) dogs may not be suitable for yours ..... or for you (the dog/owner combo needs to be taken into account too). Aggression is not like teaching a dog a skill (eg "sit") goofing that up a little isn't likely to be detrimental (save for the fact that training might take longer). Goof up on aggression and the results can prove disasterous and in some cases irreparable. Hence 'tips' over the net on how to deal with it is not IMO recommended. Perhaps an approach as suggested by LD might be in part what a behaviourist/trainer may recommend. But maybe, once the behaviourist/trainer has had opportunity to observe and assess, he/she might not deem it a suitable approach. This is the chance you take. And again, IMO, I don't leaving anything to chance when it comes to aggression ..... or for that matter, fear issues.

I use anything and everything - whatever works best for the dog and usually a mixture. But the trick IMO is to be aware of what phase of training you are in (ie teaching/training/proofing); what schedule of reinforcement you're on and whether the effort your dog just gave you is worth high, medium, low (or nil) reward. The biggest problem I find with food treats is that it is easily dispensed and dogs often grovel and do whatever their owners ask of them to get it. So they get caught up with always having to have it else their dog blows them off. The food becomes a crutch because the owners find it more awkward to work beyond food than to give in and just dole it out like there's no tomorrow. But they still think their dog is "trained". Having said this - if they are happy with that and provided they always maintain control of their dog (ie on-lead) then there probably isn't a problem. Unless something unexpected occurs, such as the lead giving way or the gate being left ajar etc. etc. It is often those times (for some) that they realise they need to increase their dog's obedience reliability. Hopefully nothing nasty occurs to render this reaction "too late".