Erny

In my experience, for a dog who has not yet "learnt to learn" - given that dogs learn by patterns/sequences, generally 3 reps is minimum for a pattern to emerge. Of course, this also depends on the task that is being taught and how complex (or not) it is and how motivated the dog is. Another factor I must take into account is that when the dogs come to me they have often learnt the wrong things through inconsistency in training by their owners. Sometimes more reps are required for the dog to understand what is expected EVERY time. Being reliable in the command taught is a different matter and requires further training/proofing.

I would make sure the dog was already on a schedule of intermittent reinforcement (food wise). Praise would form a good part of the reinforcement on a consistant schedule of reinforcement. The intermittent reinforcement (ie food) would be extended by the dog receiving a kibble (coupled with the praise on consistant reinforcement) instead of the usual intermittent tasty morsel until eventually no tasty morsel would form part of training. I would then introduce praise (on variable levels depending on what the dog did and how well - "successive approximation") onto a schedule of intermittent reinforcement to build on reliability.

No Amhailte .... it hasn't changed. It's structured as a "distance" course as opposed to a "correspondence" course. Practical tuition and experience is a must. I understand NDTF has designed the "practical handling" blocks so that the necessity for constant travelling backwards and forwards is alleviated. But hey ...... if you were thinking about doing the course, I'd love to catch up with you on the couple of occasions you're here.

Hi Kaz Use the DOL search engine to search this forum for comments regarding Dogtech. I've included some links below to help start you off, but there are heaps more for you to read if you want to be kept occupied for a while. Anyone heard of the Dog Whisperer? Yawning, stressed dog during training. Update on Missey's training with Dogtech Aggression and Socialisation

There is some truth of possibility in this ..... but provided you are careful about when the collar goes on and when the collar comes off it can in some cases prove to weaken the behaviour (of course, the "cause" needs to have been removed as well) and sometimes replaced by other more desireable behaviour.

Hey Haven!!!! That's what I said!!! Snap!! Squeak ..... I'm sure all will be well.

If the period they have given you is more than adequate, is there a real problem that others in another block have more time? I expect it is this way simply to fit in with timings of all the 'blocks', rather than anything to do with unfair advantage. When I did my course (many years ago), we had to answer questions/do the assignments in an exam situation within 2 hours ..... with closed books!!! It was ok.

Squeak ..... perhaps it would be best to direct your enquiry to NDTF rather than posting here? More likely to get yourself a quicker answer as not sure when NDTF would be looking at DOL. I doubt they'd give you anything they didn't think the average student wouldn't be capable of. And you might find that the time allowed for all and sundry is more than what you need anyway. Instead of stressing, study ..... you'll be far better prepared then. ETA: When you were at school and studying subjects, did you get the exam up front so you'd have an idea of what would be in it?

IMO "burn out" is really when, although the dog has 'learnt', the trainer doesn't build on what has been learnt (ie proofed) sufficiently ......... so it all falls apart further down the track.

Did you end up asking to purchase one from her?

Just for 'balance' I am compelled to comment here that dogs suffering severe separation anxiety (and I am by no means diagnosing or confirming diagnosis in your dog's case as I am not privvy to observation) sometimes do require behaviour modification treatment that is very demanding of the owner's time and energy. In some cases, it may be impossible to cure and a solution is to take the dog to work with you etc. etc. etc. etc. Can't comment (not that you were asking to) one way or the other with the trainer/behaviourist's method given but as to the impractical and unworkable 'solutions' ....... just pointing out that sometimes this is what it comes down to and may even necessitate re-homing the dog to a person/family who can accomodate the dog's requirements in relation to this 'condition'. What is impracticle to one person might well be quite suitable to another. Don't know how much time the trainer/behaviourist spent discussing 'Kongs' nor why any great length of time would be particularly necessary though. Maybe the 'Kong" was her own supply and perhaps showing it to you was designed as a possible item that you could purchase through the stores to assist in keeping Ivy pre-occupied in your absence? In any case of SA that I've dealt with, I've always investigated and where necessary worked to modify/correct leadership imbalances, so don't understand why "TOT" would be criticised as it is a program (amongst others) which can help in this regard. Please don't read this post as though I might be defending the trainer/behaviourist you engaged. In this respect I don't know her, Ivy or your relationship with Ivy. My attempt is to merely level up the 'playing field' (so to speak) and maybe shed some clarity on a couple of points. Glad you found a home for Ivy. Hope things work out for all concerned.

Prayers.

Don't panic. As you say, by the sounds of it Bella didn't exhibit signs of aggression. Rather, what she did was antagonistic behaviour signalling her dominance over the other dogs. Yes - this could land her into trouble if the other dog objects and choses to rise to the challenge, so you are right to prevent her from doing this. You definately will benefit from some private tuition. This will help you understand your dad's dog much more clearly and become less strung up and frantic when you're out walking (which in itself sends the wrong message to the dog). In the meantime, as you don't yet have the confidence to calmly handle matters whilst out, try to avoid times/areas where there are likely to be other dogs. Practice obedience and have play time in the back yard if this chops down outside walking opportunities, whilst you're waiting for your consultation appointment with Steve. For getting onto this quickly and for not dilly dallying and blindly or blithely experimenting until matters escalate to mammoth and seriously dangerous proportions.

Maybe, maybe not. Difficult to tell without the power of observation. My suggestion: Keep an eye out. If you see another stool with the "white dots", bag it and get your Vet to have a squizzy to ensure it is not evidence of an infestation of parasites.

I too think this is a big component of why dogs love the tunnel. I also think there is a component of new-found confidence which quickly grows because it is fairly easy for the dog to make a 'decision' of their own and achieve the right results. Once in the tunnel there is very little room (not necessarily literally speaking) for the dog to make any other decision other than to go forward - and yet in the dog's mind he/she makes that decision for itself by itself. I often see even the most sooky of dogs grow in confidence before me once they've managed to execute the tunnel once and then twice. Having said that, I couldn't turn my back on my girl if there was a dog-walk or A-frame in the vicinity because she'd be up there. And she would chose those obstacles voluntarily over and above a tunnel any day, even though she enjoyed tunnels too.

Serious behaviours such as these should be dealt with by consultation with a reputable qualified trainer/behaviourist. It is not something that should be open to advice over the net. You leave yourself (and your dog) wide open for attempting the wrong thing in the wrong way and making the matter worse. You are dealing with the dog's emotional state here and IMO it deserves more than mere guesses (which is all anyone can give you on-line) at the appropriate way to manage the problem.

Here's a Natural Anti-flea recipe. I like it for the idea of spraying bedding, yard etc. etc. as I really abhore the idea of spraying chemicals all around the place and then sleeping with chemicals as well. Can't say I know how effective it is (although I've put it up on DOL a few times, have not received feedback). If anyone has or does use it, would love to hear from you. I used Revolution on my girl. Never had a flea problem. Not once. Revolution kills adult fleas, flea eggs and flea larvae in the environment. It treats, controls and prevents flea infestations. Claims to control flea allergy dermatitis. Treats and controls ear mites and sarcoptic mange. It also prevents heartworm disease, so if you haven't had your dog on heartworm protection, it would be adviseable to have him blood tested first before you administer. Revolution is waterproof after 2 hours. BUT Revolution does NOT provide protection against ticks. I am not in a tick prone area, so it never worried me. If you are, then you'll need to keep this in mind. NATURAL ANTI-FLEA RECIPE (DOGS) Recipe - One (1) big fat Lemon - slice it paper thin. Place the slices into a bowl add a tablespoon of crushed rosemary leaves (or a 6 inch sprig of fresh rosemary). Pour over a quart of boiling water - steep (soak/leave) overnight. Strain and put into a large spray bottle. Refrigerate - shake well before applying. A GSD breeder in the US uses this recipe. The lemon and rosemary is meant to give the dog’s coat a healthier shiny coat while keeping fleas & bugs away. A tablespoon of Aloe pulp can be added if the dog has a dry skin or allergies. You can use the spray twice a week to repel bugs and you can spray it around the house on carpets or around the doors. During “flea” time you can spray daily on the dog’s belly and feet.** It can even be used on humans ! Note: Not sure if I would apply this on a dog whose skin is already irritated/abrased.

Did the Vet give you a reason why he believed raw meat wasn't good for your dogs? I agree with this. It would do nothing to serve as a natural scraper to remove and keep plaque at bay. ETA: IMO it is best to have the dogs' teeth cleaned - assuming it is needed (and the bad breath you speak of might be an indicator of this) - BEFORE peridental disease sets in. To treat the latter is not only time consuming and awkward, but will likely to cause you greater expense in relation to veterinary bills. The only other option I can think of is a second opinion. But there goes another Vet Bill.

Ok. Bye ;) What a turn up for the tables these collective threads (including deleted one) has been. A complete about face.

Oh .... and Melissa. If you are reading and if you do feel inclined to re-visit, would you PLEASE satisfy at least one more query. The OP continuously refers to your technique as the "Destraint" technique. The rest of us here on DOL are thinking she means to say "Restraint". Kindly confirm. It will serve to put some debate to rest.

Dear Am !!!! DO NOT sell yourself so short!!! You know heaps both on a theory AND practical level.

Absolutely. AND a full apology to all the members of DOL who came to your assistance with their support and suggestions - all based on your very exaggerated version of the sequence of events. Wasted a lot of time and energy, all due to the concern you raised because of personal embelishments to the truth. Your dislike of exaggerated truths is mirrored here and I am somewhat non-plussed and befuddled that you are seemingly unable to identify your own hypocrasy. What I'm curious about is, if the "method" used was calm and non-stressful, how come (according to Andoria) this led to the dog not allowing the owners near it and/or to touch its collar ..... even after 3 days beyond the "technique" being applied. I'd also appreciate clarification on the description of "biting". Is this a more forceful version of "mouthing" with a view to becoming/being dominant, or has it actually escalated to aggression and is it based in dominance or fear? I too applaude you for being courageous enough to join the forum and speak with us, Melissa. Not knowing what response you would receive, I imagine it would have been considerably nerve wracking. Like the others, I think you have some room to learn in more detail the advantages or disadvantages of various training aids (including the ones you mention). I don't believe you would be doing your skill any service by precluding them without knowing and understanding how they work when properly applied.

Thanks Am. I also was going to add that a gentle form of "Alpha Roll" - executed in a comfortable, non-threatening manner simply to accustom the dog to being physically manipulated is good. But then, because that would be done to simply accustom your dog as opposed to an attempt to force submission, for all intents and purposes it's not really an "Alpha Roll" as I think this label bears with it not only the 'action' but also 'intent'. Gosh ..... hope that makes sense . I should be getting ready to leave to attend some appointments, and here I am on DOL! Better go! ETA: Actually, sorry Am ..... I think I ended up saying exactly the same as what you posted. Except you said it better! ETA: IMO, this is where compulsion training (which can be done quite gently, calmly, non-threatening albeit firmly) in obedience (eg. sit; drop) has advantages. In the process of learning to associate obedience commands with actions, the dog is simultaneously learning acceptance of physical manipulation.

Better than ALL the time.

Oh.