pipsqueak

until you get to a puppy school, a good online resource is Ian Dunbar's Dog Star Daily website - have a look under the link that says "Training Textbook". www.dogstardaily.com

I also wouldn't let her munch on the "mushrooms" that have sprung up - if these are toadstools, some of them are potentially poisonous.

Scroll down to where it says "obedience" and open the PDF file. http://www.ankc.org.au/Rules.aspx

Get a poodle instead

Not being a pain at all! You're right, Kennel Cough is not a core vaccination and still needs to be done annually if you elect to have your dog vaccinated against it. So for example, our clients who still want the KC vaccine will come in annually for that vaccine, but only every 3 years for the C3. (the KC vaccines are seperate injections to the C3). It's interesting isn't it, Sandgrubber. I'm pretty sure I read somewhere on the AVA site that same recommendation - the KC injection/intranasal 2 weeks prior to boarding and that in fact the KC vaccine probably only really lasts 8 months. Thanks for that. I can see where kennels are coming from - and since most kennels insist on a C5 (which I believe includes canine cough), then they probably think they may as well demand everything be done annually... otherwise you probably would need to produce two certificates - one for canine cough & one for the core vaccines. My vet and kennels aren't yet accepting the three yearly vaccine (spoke to them a couple of months ago), but I think the new training club is open to the new protocol. If I didn't have to board, I would probably switch to three yearly, but until the kennels change, I'm stuck.

Sorry to be a pain, but I am still confused. From reading that, the Canine Cough vaccine (Bordtella) is *not* a core vaccine... so how is it covered by the three-yearly recommendation???

I'm curious as I've been told by a vet that the "new" protocols are only for *some* vaccines. I have been told that the Canine Cough vaccine is recommended to be given every 6 months under the new guidelines - is this correct? Nope wrong. Yes there are vacc's registered for 3 yearly use, but the AVA have said that ALL core vacc's are likely to also last 3 years. They specifically state that the new protocol will likely mean administering vacc's as an 'off label' dose. Go to the AVA's website - plenty of info there! I just printed out a few pages to put in the waiting room Okay... for the dumbies... what is an "off label dose"??? And will it be accepted by training clubs and kennels? And, any chance you could post the linky for this dumbo to the website - I went looking a while ago and got awfully lost

I'm curious as I've been told by a vet that the "new" protocols are only for *some* vaccines. I have been told that the Canine Cough vaccine is recommended to be given every 6 months under the new guidelines - is this correct?

Try the "training textbook" part of Dog Star Daily (Ian Dunbar website) http://www.dogstardaily.com/

trains, trucks, loud motor bikes. flapping stuff... kites, umbrellas, washing on line, flapping rain coats i'd probably drop into the vet again and get the nurses to feed him treats - so that he has a good experience.

Does anyone know anything about this training organisation? Where they are located & who runs it? Or anything else? PM me if you prefer. http://www.dogobedience.com.au/

any news???

Munsterlander??? http://members.tripod.com/~hermes_munsterlander/index.html

no, not fussy - I was just trying to save you having to buy overseas. Have a look at page 5 of the link I gave before - their second lot of tie-out chains only have one clip, but they do have a ring that you can thread the "prong" thingy through... so you can loop it around a post or something to secure that end, then clip the other to the dog.

No idea, but I would loooove to see photos of one of these... might solve my problems of two large dogs and two large dogs... and a smaller car!

http://www.aussierural.com.au/default.asp?...Category=XQJWWG

not sure if these are what you're looking for, but have a look at the last couple of pages of the Kra-mar catalogue - though I have a feeling they might be too long for your needs. http://www.kramar.com.au/pdf/dogs_tethering.pdf

Geez... I know that their lifespan was short, but didn't realise that it was that short!

It would be nice to have a list in each unit with has... - name, phone number & directions to local vet - you never know when things can happen - location of any off-leash areas - location of any good local pet supply stores... just in case you break a lead or need extra food. Personally for me, I would like the entire property fenced (I have a sighthound who I cannot let off lead). For me to be comfortable, all fences would need to be 6ft and have no gaps underneath.

- parking at the door - appts generally run to time, but if for some reason they don't (eg emergencies) reception staff let you know. - accessible scales in the waiting room and staff that don't mind if you "drop in" just to weigh an animal - I sometimes do it as part of training, just to get the dogs used to getting on the scales and staying still. They may think that I'm an idiot, but they never show it whilst I'm there. - waiting room usually only has one or two animals waiting because of the way they arrange their appts. And, there is plenty of room to spread out and move away if need be. - vets and staff remember me and my pet, even when I drop in without an animal - only struck one idiot vet amongst the bunch - seemed scared of big dogs - the rest are brilliant and I can usually choose who I want to see if it is not an emergency. - vets that are willing to explain treatments, diagnosis to the "paranoid owner" who always has questions... and don't make me feel like an idiot in the process. - the care and sensitivity shown when I had to have my guinea pig PTS - explained the process (it is different to dogs) and why things were done, and gave me time and space to bawl... then sensitively approached the subject of what to do with her next (which cannot be an easy thing for a vet) and still treated her with respect after she was "gone".

does anyone have a link to the ad?

i was watching a Bob Bailey DVD recently, and he discussed this concept. His attitude is to "click for movement and feed for position", meaning that ideally you should feed/reward the animal whilst still in the position you want, or in the case with his chickens, feeding to help them move in the desired direction.

as much as I'd love to go, the price is a bit to steep

having helped put up a couple of these (with multiple people helping), I'll agree that they are a nightmare to erect - won't be getting me trying it again any time soon. I'd much rather try my hand at putting up something like this... http://www.carringtonkennels.com.au/dogs.html

I must be ultra lazy - I just fold down the top and secure with pegs