dragonwoman

So did I. on advice of repro vet who said it was the best time, I was dubious because bitch had had emergency caesar and raised a big litter and was looking pretty flat, she also was still discharging fairly heavily..........in hindsight it was a good move, allowed her to have it all done with and she has not looked back

BTW Would it be possible to clone Mr TSD? He sounds like a treasure!! I enjoy your enthusiasm, nothing like a dog bred to work!!!

Thanks for the link....is this as good as vet bed?....as in, is it as thick a pile and as absorbent as the green backed bedding? It is the one I am having the fluff shedding problem with, not as good as the old soft backed stuff but I don't like green or rubber backed either........................some people are hard to please LOL Just needs heaps of washing and whacking!!

My enquiries say no......................nearest for starters might be Diggers out Sunbury way................they have a website................most of us travel for lessons

When we had that issue years ago the only solution was a pest exterminator, previous owner had been feeding feral cats which lived under the house..............I ended up with couple of kids with infected bites all over them.

Wash it many times before use...................even then it can still shed fluff, as is happening here right now..................for first ten days or so I put old white sheets over it to avoid puppies inhaling fluff, plus I can see any discharges..................after that sheet gets wet when puppies start urinating for themselves so sheet gets cold and stops vet bed from doing its job..............that's when I ditch the sheets......might add that fluff is PITA getting caught on edges of Velcro ID collars I'm using..........had to get a pin to clean one

Maybe she never barks because she doesn't think the situation warrants it, her pack is all there and safe.......................would probably be different story if she was really needed to arc up...................many owners of dogs have been amazed at the dog when the situation called for it...........the strong silent type is often bolder than the yappy type.........I've seen it when threatened............don't think show lines has anything to do with it, they are all dogs!! I would not go for a working type unless I was prepared to cater for its needs to work

No training book I would recommend would suggest constant interference with a dog's food. Fastest method I can think of to heighten anxiety about food and hence trigger any tendency to resource guard. Want my honest recommendation? Ditch those training books, employ a decent trainer (ask for a recommendation here) and buy a crate. Feed the dog in the crate for the rest of her life and leave her alone until she's done. You've got a dog with a tendency to resource guard and the safest way to ensure she never creates an issue is to secure her while she eats. I would also secure her while any food is consumed in your house. Anyone who tells you this is a leadership or dominance issue is talking out of their armpit. Even the lowest dogs in a pack will resource guard - its a perfectly natural response to competition for food. Sadly for us, its an undesirable one too. Agree, leave the poor dog alone to enjoy her food in a safe place, always make sure she is never interfered with, you re making too big an issue out of it......................as far as I'm concerned all dogs should be able to eat in peace, just like most of we humans expect to be able to do

Please don't call it an E collar, that means something else!!

Good idea (when no-one is looking LOL)to practise footsteps and signals, etc without the dog, if your act is together, you only have to worry about listening to instructions and conveying things to your dog (dogs need feedback too) Surprising how much better dogs get when they think the handler knows what they are doing!! We all had first dogs and. wonderful creatures that they are, they all forgave us........enjoy..................they never had lists like this when I started out 30 years ago.............

Our Dogs Victoria membership cards which we should carry with our licences maybe have on them that the person has dogs at home which may need care in an emergency, it is not only accidents, sometimes people take ill suddenly or have some other disaster where they may be unable to communicate that they have dogs at home

I believe it will come here under licence like Flyball, NADAC Agility and the like so will not be ANKC recognised, or not for a long time and not until issues like insurance can be resolved, which is why the ANKC recognition of Flyball broke down Even Rally came under licence for the first five years, the only alterations were conversion to metrics and some places which conflicted with an ANKC Regs, but Rally came from a kennel control, so if there were Nosework rules recognised by an overseas control with whom we have recognition, it could come here via ANKC, doubt if I will see it LOL

Do both, you may not reach great heights with either but learning is as much fun as doing, or it should be!!

Yes, you do need to join dogs Qld and the dog has to be registered too either on Main or Limited Register or as an Associate or on the Sporting Register I would not enter CCD until my dog was really ring ready for Novice, that way you are more sure to succeed and your dog will not develop bad habits or become jaded if you keep on trialling without success. You really want to be in and out of these classes as soon as you can. I have noticed a tendency for some instructors to encourage trialling before the dog is ready, especially if the dog stands out in class I also would not be going into class much, maybe for groups and occasional distraction training or socialising with the friends you have made, I would be getting as much experience in a ring with run-throughs for you and the dog with a variety of people putting you through. I believe class work can become very boring for the dog if you just keep on with the same old same old I suggest you steward CCD or Novice at a couple of trials, you will learn a lot in a non-threatening situation and pick up lot of dos and dont's, especially if the judge knows you are keen to learn, they encourage new handlers, they guarantee future judging jobs!!! Contact the trial secretaries of a couple of trials coming up to volunteer(assuming your state allows this, some states have panels of approved people)

Susan Garrett feeds raw, she cuts up pieces of chicken necks for training.

What I know/expect about breed I got influenced my answers, couldn't help it, photo did nothing for me except show a concerned dog IMHO

Shhhhhh.................just finished shampooing the carpets.................

Relative has a dog with chronic itches. Any vet suggestions for Frankston/Seaford/Carrum areas maybe specialists consult there some days?

Probably been done to death but what do others do?

Head down could be submissive because you are fiddling with other bits, maybe reward head up and worry about rest when he is comfy?

Wrap paw in pantyhose so just claws stick through, no hair to snag

Yes, you "know where it's come from"

Probably just old dead hair, junior coat drop, can you pluck it out easily? Bet you didn't have a junior coat drop!! LOL Strip it out with a metal comb, hold your thumb against the teeth, and wait for the new coat to come down He may not look as hairy but he will look better...............

If you are entering CCD or Novice Obedience or Rally Novice you don't need to give Height at Shoulder (HAS), that is only required in classes with jumps. It gets confusing after that, for Obedience you need actual HAS rounded to 10mm, for Rally and Agility dogs jump in height categories which are not the same for both, you will need to look up the respective Rules for each but plenty of time for that!!! Good luck with your trialling