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persephone

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Everything posted by persephone

  1. nadz- the idea of raw meaty bones is that the dog eats the lot- meat/gristle/bone. so- NON WEIGHTBEARING bones- ie: not legs/shanks etc are the best to use, as they are somewhat softer Shanks can splinter- and they are very hard. Not ideal, IMO. if your boy gets red meat in his patties- and gets soft chicken bones for his chewing/calcium , that may balance out
  2. Indeed!! absorption may take a while to reach dangerous levels/become symptomatic. Just a thought- but may well be worth checking!!
  3. It could be reaction to some sort of neurotoxin.... any spraying of termites/weeds or anything at your place or neighbours? Anyone been spraying their boundary with insecticide or anything? Have the dogs dug in the garden? Do they have access to behind a shed or under the house where residue could be found? Do you have any treated pine where they can easily access it, or where it may be in contact with kennel/water bowl etc? Carpet- when was that cleaned? Any work out on the nearby footpath- spraying/new paths/painting....
  4. Ok- then may I recommend you get the services of s good trainer - who will come to your place, and see exactly what the behaviour is- then give you some 'tools' to get you back in control Ask on here in training or general, and there are bound to be recommendations !
  5. Have you put your hand on the surface? if you are not able to stand comfortably on it in bare feet- neither is your pup How long do you walk him? Perhaps he just gets tired quickly? A vet won't really be able to check for behavioural problems- however they CAN rule out joint problems, etc for you
  6. Hi- here are some threads you may find interesting. When someone here tells you to feed raw/meat- they do NOT mean just lean muscle meat .You are correct- this is in no way a good diet for pups/dogs. in these links you will find lots of information to provide your new dog with all his dietary needs , in a form he will enjoy! LINK 1 LINK 2 LINK 3 LINK 4
  7. Yep- vet check first. is he stopping in teh same place, or after the same amount of time? What time of the day? On what surface/s? In what sort of area/s? what is his body language? lying down rolling over panting hard ears back ears forward tail wagging tail down fidgeting staying still
  8. Also- wearing collars can put pressure on EXACTLY the spot where the irritation is in the throat...and cause more coughing. Why do you need to take both dogs? Wouldn't it be easier with one? Kennel cough will get better with supportive treatment .... it takes time,but with rest and something to soothe the cough, it will pass! I agree- if dog is not happy, weepy eyes, runny nose, deeper cough, not as keen on the food- then a vet visit is a good idea.
  9. he is a working breed, and needs YOU to provide him with an appropriate outlet . he would benefit from more training sessions, maybe look into some herding or flyball or agility? I would suggest to only walk him on a LONG leash... I always walk my dog on a very long rope attached to my waist...as he is a hunter. I use a thinnish strong rope, with a swivel at each end, so there are no tangles. I have it attached to a belt around me. The rope is about 6 mtrs long, or a bit more.. so Hamlet can run/swim, sniff- but is still under some control
  10. That worked very well! Dogs were keen to get out and to work. It also showed us the dogs in all their moods... the ones who were anxious in kennels, the ones to whom a change of scenery was THE best thing, the ones who very quickly adapted to the routine... It's a learning thing- the brain is continually seeking stimulation, and so the individual will do whatever it takes to gain that
  11. Another thought- sometimes we had nice young dogs, perfectly tractable and willing to learn, to walk nicely..... but just without the bit of 'Oomph' needed. What I found to be moist helpful in some of these cases, was to let the dog carry something- usually rolled up junkmail Their whole demeanour would change- they would lean into the harness, tail would be up, and they would be a happy and confident 'working dog'! We would wean them off the junkmail , once they realised that working well was a good thing It did look amusing, I must admit.
  12. Ok- I am way out of the loop here- and am not used to the terminology - so forgive me- When training Guide dogs, which is where I did most of my dog work. ... dogs were spending a lot of time in a concrete kennel- no way of seeing the outside world, etc. They were of course in large open runs for toilet and play opportunities, but mostly in a kennel... THEN they were taken out for training. No actual training was done in the kennel environment- it was all out & about..starting with very quiet and simple environments, with tasks to suit. Their 'drive', I am supposing was fuelled by the desire to be out, to be somewhere stimulating... As time went by, so did their keenness increase..and when the harness bodypiece was introduced, most leapt at the chance to be allowed to 'pull' a bit, and to start really 'working' Is this sort of the idea?
  13. Agree with SBT123. you have a working breed- who are bred to respond to fast moving things (like sheep) When they see this movement they are 'programmed to RUN/herd' With this constant stimulus, and no chance to do what his brain is demanding- he finds other outlets - like chewing/barking. He would be anxious, because he cannot do as nature intended.... what mental exercise does he get?Training sessions,flyball, herding, lots of obedience at home...... he sounds as if he needs a bit more to tire out his very active brain
  14. I use the cranberry powder (or capsules- just pull em apart) dosage- not sure- have only used it on cats- and just a pinch works on them .Guess work out the human dose, and adjust for weight?
  15. I'm guessing there are hundreds of pups available thru rescues- one is bound to suit, and be MUCH closer to home for you Spending all that money for something completely an unknown quantity may not be the wisest move ....perhaps it's for the best that it found another home
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