Bullbreedlover

In my opinion it is a colour mutation not a disease(but I could be wrong) King parrots can mate with crimson wings and another couple of parrots.(cant remember what their names are) Dont forget it is moulting time so displaced feathers are common.

Hubby knows more about this and he is at work We have had one up at our old place SEQld. I think I have deleted the photo but same colouring.

Most ears we have glued and only while they are teething, which is to ensure that the cartledge remains as a rose ear. Because they can be all over the place we like to ensure that they stay rose. From what I can remember I think there were some ears we didnt glue as they stayed rose throughout teething. Yes and Bullmastiffs are the opposite. You tape for a button ear. No rose.

I couldnt tell you the answer to hip scores in Aus. As far as I know there are only a few that have been hip scored in NZ but the results are not posted on the vet website until the next year i think.(Could be corrected though) We have only xrayed not scored. In my opinion there should be no excuse in any litter for button ears if the breeder knows what they are doing.

Some Bullmastiffs are out all day in runs. Mine enjoy lazing in the sun with the ocassional zoomies around the yard. They love their rest time though although in cooler months do get daily walks. My older girl is getting a little slower these days although still beats the other two up but she is a real fair dinkum couch potato. Abbey is alot fitter than Morgan and Alex has yard exercise to keep him trim for the show ring

I have been preparing this article below to put on the thread. I dont have the author but the article is old. It is one that I used for the Bulldog supplement back in NZ. My personal preference is for a complete nose roll. To me it gives a good appearance to the head, but each one is correct so long as the various attributes are there. We do not raise our puppies too lean but we do not put too much weight on them either. Finding a middle balance I think is important and having a puppy with good covering as they mature is essential. Ears can be a hard one to gauge. We dont touch them until the puppy is well into teething. If they are all over the place, then they do get glued. I have seen many Bulldogs with button ears due to the breeder not taking notice of the puppys ears and or either not knowing how to glue properly. It is not hard to do once you have been shown. The Bulldog head The Bulldog head plays a big part in the correct expression - in fact the original points system allocates 45% or as much as for the whole body. Every part of the head is an important feature in the overall makeup. One common misunderstanding about the description arises from the failure to appreciate the distinction between the skull and the head. These words are far from synonymous. A dog can have a good shaped skull, but still have a poor head. Just as a room in a house can be good, as a room, but be made hideous by bad furnishings. The head is composed of the boney structure - the skull, furnished with covering and also with eyes, ears, nose and nostrils, mouth and upper and lower jaws. We are told the skull should be brick shaped. Since the last century the size and shape of bricks have obviously changed, so the depth of the skull would have to be deeper that the proportions of the normal brick as we know it today. Brick-shaped suggests that the skull formation should be long, flat and almost non tapering as it comes forward from the eyes. Of course the actual bone structure does taper, but this tapering should be nearly made up by the fleshy covering. I emphasize “nearly made up” because few heads fail to taper slightly as they reach the muzzle. I am not convinced that this is undesirable but once again emphasize the very important word “slightly”. The ears are set on the top corners of the “brick”. They should be set as to one third on the top corner and as to two thirds on the “down” edges. They should be reasonably small and of thin texture and normally carried thrown back showing the burr of the ear when viewed in profile, so forming the correctly termed “rose” ear. Whilst they should be small rather than large, they can be too small. However the fault of excessive smallness is a rarity in comparison to being too large; proportion is the yard stick. A very serious fault is the button ear, when the ears fall over the skull like those of a boxer. Another fault is the tulip or pricked ear, when they are carried too high or almost erect. Between the ears the head should appear very flat or only extremely slightly rounded. If you run your fingers across the skull between the ears, you should find a very slight groove in the centre, proceeding towards the eyes and deepening as it goes towards the commencement of the furrow. This cleft is the boney structure of the skull and should be easily traceable forwards increasing in depth until it reaches the stop. The skin and fleshy covering of the skull forming the brow, should be neither skin tight nor very loose. It should be covered by fine wrinkle which should be clearly defined, but by no means like coils of rope. Never should the Bulldog wrinkles on the skull be like those of a Bloodhound. The irises of the eyes should be dark, although in a white or light fawn dog these are often forgiven for being a shade lighter. The standard suggests that the eyes should be black or nearly so. I have seen jet black eyes on occasions and have seen the unfortunate dog to have little vision or poor sight. I feel the colour should be dark. The wording of the standard is misleading when it asks for round eyes. Of course the eyeball should be round, but the aperture or the opening should never be round as it should be like a rather flattened rhomboid in shape with the eyeball itself being neither sunken nor protruding. As with most short faced dogs Bulldogs have stereoscope vision, unlike other dogs. The eye apertures should be set perfectly horizontally to the effect that an imaginary straight line drawn across the face should cover the four corners of the eyes. If the apertures are higher or lower at the outside corners than the inner ones(in other words slanted) they become a serious fault and mar the dogs expression. The eyes should be set as widely apart as possible within the ambit of the foreface of the skull; eg they must not have the outer corners of the eyes “around the corner” of the skull. The width between the eyes should be more than twice the width of the eye aperture. The nose should be short(not too short), and the nostrils, which should be very large, open and very black with its face leaning slightly backwards. The actual nose itself should be short to the point that the nostrils should not be situated far forward of the eyes. As the furrow runs forward to the nose, it would become very deep and this part is known as the “stop”. Running over this is a coil of flesh(sometimes two smaller ones combined)- this is sometimes known as the roll. This should proceed horizontally until it reaches the inner corners of the eyes, then descend in a curve both sides of the foreface and become merged into the muzzle. Some rolls do not cross over the nose, but start from either side of it. I feel that the dogs appearance is enhanced by the cushion running over the bridge of the nose- some judges prefer the stop to be free of it. From the centre of the nostril, a very narrow cleft(the septum line) proceeds downwards and forward to the end of the upper lip. The latter should be convex and not draped curtain-wise, should swell as they approach the sides and form the dogs “chops” or “flews”. The upper jaw, having a definite sweep or upward turn to such an extent that the top lips of the dog should cover the canine teeth in the lower jaw. The muzzle, forward of the eyes, should not taper much, but be nearly as wide as the skull. Ratio 3.5:5 is acceptable to me but 4:5 is better. It is essential that the under jaw should be parallel to the upper jaw and dead centre beneath it. If this is not the case then the dog is “wry jawed”, which is definite fault, very grave in the eyes of some judges, less serious in the opinions of others, but always disapproved. Personally I penalise a dog very heavily if it is wry jawed or untrue without examination- if it takes a microscopic examination of the mouth to find a slight deviation from exactness, I take much less notice. Occasionally we find a top face which is not evenly balanced- to me a very grave fault, as the dog is wry faced and not symmetrical. The standard states that the cheeks should be well rounded. One can interpret this in different ways. I take it as being the cheek bones should not be hollowed, but should be well covered. It is very important to evaluate the various parts of the Bulldog head in relation to each other. To make a really good head, the dog must have two essentials- it must have layback and be up faced. To test the layback, it is necessary to view the head in profile. The tip of the under lip, the tip of the nose and the forehead should all appear in one straight line, which when the head is carried normally, should be at an angle of between 30 and 45 degrees to the ground. To assess placidness in a Bulldog, the head must be examined full face, again when it is in a normal position. The tip of the nose should approximately just touch an imaginary line drawn across the centre of the eyes. If the nose is much lower than this, it tends to give a “snouty” or Boxer like appearance; a dog can have a good layback and yet be down faced which will ruin its expression. The correct head should have considerable length, and the squashed back face is required. There should be good length from ear to eye, but there should also be the same length from the outer corner of the eye to the tip of the under lip. Also the face should be thick through; eg from the stop vertically downwards to the throat below should not be shallow, but very deep. Many dogs with a sweep of under jaw are either too short in front of the eyes, or else have little depth through the face, making them shallow in this department. With all the virtues combined, together with a stance that makes the dog look as though he stands fore square, he should have the required “sour” expression. Over the years “sour” has been used for the want of a better word to describe the Bulldog, which must be confident, truculent( not aggressive or ferocious), standoffish, in other words, an aloof type of look. All of these belie the kind, warm, affectionate temperament of the Bulldog.

This Bullmastiff thread has had such a huge response (not) so I am just giving it a bump just in case people dont know its there. Surely all the Bullmastiff breeders have something to contribute. And newbies would like to ask questions

Yahhhhhhh The Bulldog dog breeds thread is alive. QUESTIONS 1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) My family and I have owned, bred and shown Bulldogs(and still own them) for very nearly 30 years. They are our heart breed and my first of three heart breeds We live, breathe and love everything Bulldogs. Bulldogs are our passion. I am also a Non sporting championship judge. 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? The breed was developed in Britain. The origin of the Bulldog is often given over to speculation and authorities often differ in their views. It is an undisputed fact that Bulldog are a very old breed. It is thought that the origins of the breed existed in the 1500's and that the Bulldog and the Mastiff had a common ancestor in the 'alaunt" a long extinct breed whose name had a great variety of spellings but in whose description three characteristics of the Bulldog of today are well defined....size, shape of head, courage and tenacity. The main purpose of the breeds’ development was for the baiting of bulls and also bears. This “sport” was enjoyed by all classes of people from kings to ordinary citizens. In time the bulldog gradually became associated with being owned by the lowest in the social class and was viewed as being more and more of a savage brute. With the abolition of Bull baiting and dog fighting the bulldog breed wavered on the brink of extinction. In 1859 the advent of dog shows were first held and so an incentive to breed exhibits for the shows increased the popularity of the breed for the betterment of the breed. 3. How common is it in Australia? The bulldog is a very popular breed in Australia 4. What is the average lifespan? In my opinion the average lifespan for a Bulldog is certainly 10 years plus. We have had dogs live until 12 and a half years old. 5. What is the general temperament/personality? The Bulldog is a docile breed but can also be easily aroused into a protective state if necessary. The must be treated with respect. They are a powerful low stature dog 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? We never street walked our bulldogs until they were over 12 months old. Before then it was yard exercise with ring training. You must restrict jumping up and down as the Bulldog limbs should be allowed to fully develop. 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? If the first time owner was well versed in the Bulldog needs then yes they most certainly are fine with first time owners. BUT every breeder must make the owner fully aware about owning a brachy breed and there are important does and don’ts. 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? Bulldogs strive for human companionship. I do not recommend that this breed is left for long periods of time unless crated or at least made sure they are in a safe place. 9. How much grooming is required? Twice weekly brush, more often when moulting. They may require their folds of skin to be cleaned and inspected for signs of wetness or bacteria growth. If the bulldog does have a tight screw tai then this will need to be cleaned on a regular basis. 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? The Bulldog can be quite a boisterous dog but usually is quite content to relax with people who love it. 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? Yes there are common hereditary problems that can occur in the Bulldog. Stenotic nares, Elongated soft palate. Eye problems. Hemi vertebrae, luxating patella’s 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) We have never hip scored our Bulldogs but we have x rayed for our own purposes to examine the hips on our bulldogs. There are other tests that can be done as far as trachea size goes. With the make up of the bulldog the hip structure is such that you will not get a 0/0 score of the bulldog hips. His hips should be sound and free moving though.

I know of a cast horror story. If it is just the toe then please dont go down that track. Has she just knocked it up? I had a greyhound with a knocked up toe. It was noticeable but he was fine. Been wondering how you are W

Bovine neosporosis (Neosporum Caninum) is a protozoan parasite which infects the heart, brain and other tissues of the developing fetus and can result in abortion. Neospora requires a two-host life cycle. A dog that has eaten infected placental material or cyst material from the brain, spinal cord, retina or possibly offal of infected cattle develops eggs in the intestines which are passed in the feces, which in turn can be ingested by the cattle. Adult cattle do not develop clinical disease following infection, but it can cause abortion of infected foetus or neurological disease of the newborn or young calf. Neosporosis caninum does not affect people. The most common transmission of neosporosis is called Vertical transmission, which is the passage of parasites from the maternal blood to foetal blood. A definite diagnosis of neospora abortion is difficult, the diagnosis requires submission of a sample of aborted foetus to a diagnostic lab for microscopic examination before a definite diagnosis of N. Caninum can be made. Neosporosis caninum can also infect puppies through vertical transmission, though it apparently can affect dogs of all ages. The most consistent sign of canine neosporosis is paralysis of limbs, especially hind limbs. There are several serological tests that can detect antibodies to neosporosis infection in dogs. The parasite causes brain lesions with following neurological problems, and there is little chance of recovery with most infected dogs being euthanised. By far the highest incidence of neosporosis caninum in dogs has been found among farm dogs. One of the main sources of infection for dogs is eating aborted foetal material or placenta or offal from infected cattle. It is highly unlikely for muscle tissue to have cysts, tissue cysts of N. Caninum are not normally observed in muscle tissue of adult cattle. Raw beef would have little chance of infecting dogs, and it is considered that freezing would kill it, but cysts that form in neural tissues are resistant to freezing surviving up to 14 days at 4c but non-infective after 24 hours at -20c. There has not been a whole lot of study on Neosporum Caninum, and there are conflicting reports on sites on the web, the majority of this presented information is derived from research Institutes and from email discussion with a Scottish research scientist. Her final email states "We believe one of the main sources of infection for dogs would be eating aborted foetal material or placenta or offal from infected cattle. If your feedstuffs do not contain this material and have been frozen they should not be a major infection source for dogs." Due to cost, it is no doubt correct to assume that our working gundogs are fed on frozen dog roll and dry dog food, or frozen MAF approved fresh meat mixes. We can only wonder who would allow their dog access to eating aborted foetal material or placentas, and/or feeds uncooked offal to their dogs...

Agreed. I'm moving to Europe in a couple of years and I will finally hopefully be able to own my cropped dobe :p One of the most barbaric surgery proceedures that can be done on a dog and you think it is a good thing?????????????????????????????????????????

Its not quite as easy as this. We are the only vets in our town (and the only vets for another 300kms). We see about 5 cases of Parvo a week and 90% of these are treated in hospital (an isolation). By your definition - we should not vaccinate puppies at all??? Its just not practical And its just heartbreak to lose 2 litters of puppies. Common sense comes into the picture. The puppies should of had immunity from the bitch. The vet should of said that he has treated cases of parvo knowing full well he was vaccinating puppies. I still believe he had a duty of care. How would anyone else feel if a vet turned up at your place to vaccinate puppies and has just been treating other dogs with parvo. Perhaps the batch is at fault. There are many scenarios. We can only surmise. I have already posted about my thoughts on vaccinating puppies.

For more than 30 years we have used the protocol of not vaccinating until at least 8 weeks old. Yes the vaccine does suppress their immune system. And if you also add a scenario that for some reason the pups immune system or general health system was already in a small way down, then its just like a nightmare waiting to happen. I havent heard of the new vaccination method for young puppies and I think he got that one totally wrong. In hindsight, if they were my babies I would of said no...we are doing it this way. ie 8 weeks and then 12 weeks. The puppies would not of gone off my property until at least 9 weeks old. So the first litter were done at 6 weeks with vaccine batch???A the first litter were done at 8 weeks with batch??????A?????? and at the same time the first litter had their 8 week shot the second litter had their 6 week shot with batch?????A????? is that correct? did they all have the same batch number vaccine. You know its all very well the vets saying its not their fault and the company saying its not our fault but i would be looking into it more. especially if they ALL had the same batch number vaccine. There are other things to look at. Your vet is bound by a duty of care to make sure that if he has treated any cases of parvo prior to coming to your place, then he should not of been there.If there was parvo where you(town) are he should of told you. There are lots of if's, I know that but you need answers otherwise you will never know

Your experience does sound truly devastating. I feel for your loss. Virkon S has been around for many years and we used it back home at the vet club I worked at. I was always told that the virus can live in the soil for 2 years. You can also wash all dog beds etc in the virkon but of course it will stain them all pink. The other alternative is to replace everything We never vaccinate our puppies at 6 weeks old. Ever. Always 8 weeks and then 12 weeks. Heartbeak for you and your puppy buyers. Do you know how this was introduced to your puppies? The vaccine is a live one but perhaps someone has brought the virus onto your place.

deshedding tool from clipperworld totally recommend them for short haired breeds they sell a couple of ones. the yellow and black cheaper ones are brilliant

uuummm my girls ears are hot even though she is has been lying by the fans and her body temp is 37.5. Her nose is a bit dry and warm too so it is not exact science

How about using words more suitable to the forum. And I would also suggest that you get a digital or mercury thermometer and get a proper reading. Does the dogs body feel hot. Are they stressed in any way? Usually(but it some circumstances not always, ie on a hot day) a dog that has a nice cool damp nose should have a normal body temperature Normal temp for a canine is 38.5 but this can be lower or higher for some.

QUESTIONS 1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) My involvement with the breed started 17 years ago. I have owned Bullmastiffs since 2004. The Bullmastiff. Welcome to the world of Bullmastiffs Bullmastiffs. The Gamekeepers Dogs. At the beginning of the 19th Century this beautiful breed of dog was developed to assist the wealthy English Land owners from the increasing threat of poachers. While it was a necessary need for the common working man to provide for his family the best way he could, the estate owners were only concerned with their stocks of recreational game being depleted and the need for a strong, dependable, loyal dog was developed through the years from breeding the Bulldog with the English Mastiff. The gamekeepers needed a dog that would display loyalty, stamina, speed and size. One which could be depended upon to bring down and hold a poacher until the Gamekeeper could apprehend the thief. The dog needed to be a quiet worker, whose colour could blend into the night (the preferred colour was brindle for the night dogs). As the breed developed reds and fawns became increasingly popular as well. He needed to be heavy enough to bring a poacher to the ground and hold him but not too heavy that he couldn’t work all night guarding the estate and give chase if required. The standard for the Bullmastiff was drawn up in 1924 and is regarded today in the show ring as being extremely important in continuing to preserve breed characteristic and type. While the Bullmastiff of today is of course no longer required to pursue poachers, he is still regarded as a dog who is very loyal and trustworthy, but he must never be misunderstood or mistreated. He can be an impressive dog with great strength and will require a firm but gentle hand in his upbringing. He must never be the pack leader in your household of a human family but should be taught to respect and obey your day to day world and he will reward you with the ability to become an impressive guard dog if required but the Bullmastiffs life is more suited to spending his days in relaxation and being a family companion. His temperament must be reliable though and this should be an important fact to bear in mind when choosing the Bullmastiff to become your companion for his lifetime. As they are a large breed dog it must also be realised that they, to a big extent will not have the life span that say, a smaller breed will have. Their growth rate is huge, and they will not mature until they are at least 3 years old, in some cases older. The Bullmastiff can also be susceptible to forms of cancer that may not be so prevalent in smaller breeds. They can also be prone to developing Hip Dysplasyia, though with careful breeding this can to some extent be minimised. Bullmastiffs. The Family Companions. If you have decided that the Bullmastiff may be the breed for you, I would recommend spending as much time as possible in reading about the breed, attending Dog Shows and trying to visit as many reputable Kennels as possible. Contact your State Breed Club to ask when the shows are being held. While you may not be wanting a show potential puppy, many Breeders do show their dogs as they strive to improve the breed in type, temperament and quality. The Bullmastiff is a dog that does not do well in an environment in which he will not be treated as part of the family. He strives for human companionship. He is as much at home on his special dog bed in a corner of the lounge. I prefer to have a limited number of dogs with whom we can devote time to, than having a huge kennel of dogs which, while they are socialised with other dogs, may lack the individual attention I feel they deserve. It is important to bring your dog up in a friendly home situation and that you have thought long and hard about selecting this breed. Many times people have brought a wonderful bundle of joy into their home, only to realise further down the track, that they have not spent the time needed with the puppy to socialise him properly, and they are now faced with a huge adolescent male who is trying to rule the house. Bullmastiff puppies have a huge cuteness factor that simply can not be ignored. They tug on your heart strings, and will fill your world with a beautiful sense of being loved. To be loved by a Bullmastiff is very special indeed, and you may soon find that one dog is simply not enough. They will entertain you with their antics, will love you unconditionally and be your friend when you need them most. My dogs love to comfort me when I am feeling low or they will share in my happiness with huge enthusiasm. To the normal everyday person most Bullmastiff puppies will look just as cute as the next one and it may be a very hard to choice to make in deciding which bundle of joy you would like to take home. One of the first decisions you will need to make though is whether you would like a male or female puppy. While this may seem a small matter it can have an impact later on in your life when, if you have chosen a bitch, are you prepared to look after her when she comes into season, ensuring that she does not escape to be accidentally mated? Are you prepared to ensure your male does not escape your property and pursue the "in season" bitch down the road? I would not advise desexing your puppy, especially a large breed, at a very early age as this can result in growth problems later on. Bitches and dogs for that matter need to mature hormonally as well as mentally and while your local vet may insist that it is a good thing to desex at an early age, I personally do not. Bullmastiffs are a large breed dog and they need time to mature. Of course if you do decide to show your Bullmastiff then they must be kept entire as a desexed dog is not eligible to be shown at Championship dog shows. Socialising and bringing your puppy up correctly within a household is very important. Dogs are pack animals. The must have order and routine for without it they may become aggressive and try to dominate. I always advocate that the first steps to controlling your puppy is to ensure that you are quiet, confident and in control yourself. You and your family members must be able to control your dog when it is necessary. You must be a pack leader as must the rest of your human family. Feeding and training your puppy should be an enjoyable part of bringing up your dog but it must also be that your puppy learns to respect and obey your commands. While your puppy should of course eat his meals with enthusiasm, he must also learn that if for any reason you need to take his meal away from him, or take something from his mouth he must not be aggressive to what you are doing. I like to ensure that I can, at any stage, take my dogs meals away from them, or take something out of their mouth with confidence. This is a learning process that should be started from a young age and should only be undertaken in controlled situations. The next big step to take is whether or not you would like to buy a puppy as a Show Potential puppy or a pet. Either way it makes no difference to the dog itself in the fact that he will be loved and treated as part of the family regardless of whether he is a top winner in the ring or a loyal friend at home. With my many years experience of showing and breeding Bulldogs, before being owned by Bullmastiffs, I have found that there will always be breeders who will breed their puppies to fulfill a buyers market. And then there are breeders who have a genuine interest in producing quality healthy puppies, breeding to improve. I would advise purchasing a puppy from a reputable Breeder. One who will have a carefully planned breeding programme in place. In my opinion, breeding is all about producing quality, not quantity. As caretakers of the breed we need to place emphasize on breed type, soundness, quality and style. Type: Today, the dog which most closely resembles its standard both in disposition and appearance is the most typical of a certain kind of dog developed for a particular purpose. In looking at the standard of the Bullmastiff you will come to realise that his makeup is crucial to him performing his duties in past years. Factors which should not be overlooked when breeders are making the decision to bring a litter of puppies into the world. Type is what makes a Bullmastiff. It is the standard which best describes a particular breed of dog. Soundness: Both these two attributes are equalably important in assessing a dog. Type is of extreme importance but if the dog is not sound then he should not win in the show ring. A dog who is blind in one eye, lame, or one which displays an aggressive temperament or who is deformed is unsound. Soundness is often considered to be in reference to movement only. This is not correct. It should be referred to mean the dogs entire construction as well as his physical and mental well being. A dog which displays extreme nervousness or aggression when its standard specifically states that it must not, in my opinion is unsound. But a dog who has an undershot jaw or light eyes is untypical of the breed and this should be considered appropriately according to the standard. Quality: The word quality in the dog world refers to a general amalgamation of breed virtues. Type, Soundness, Style and Temperament. Not one of these virtues is in excess of the other. Style: The dictionary defines style as “a matter of conduct or action”. Style comes nearer than any other breed characteristic to “type” and it is of great importance to the show dog. A dog is either born with it or without it. Presentation of your dog will go along way in accentuating style if a showy dog has it, but a lot of the time with the heavier built breeds it is rather difficult to do. A stylish dog is very noticeable in the ring. He has distinction and will impress spectators with his proud carriage and sell himself to the judge. Bullmastiffs. In the Show Ring. Generally, many new people in the breed, who start showing their Bullmastiffs will do so while the puppy is young. In order to exhibit your dog you will need to belong to your States Canine Control Club. These Clubs have a governing body called The Australian National Kennel Club or ANKC. The breeder of your puppy will be able to assist you in filling out the necessary forms to become a member of your Canine Control. Or you may just wish to be a member of your States Breed Club and receive their newsletters to keep you in touch with Bullmastiff people near you. If you do decide to show then mention this to the people you are going to get your puppy from so they can assist you in selecting a possible show potential puppy. I say “show potential”, because I personally would not guarantee that any puppy born is going to be show quality. Hopefully with careful planning by the breeder there are going to be some nice puppies in the litter than may reach high expectations. Showing a Bullmastiff can be very rewarding but you do have to have some commitment in attending shows, ring training yourself and your puppy, being conversant with Rules and Regulations, and being prepared to travel to attend shows at times. Dog shows can be a very good way to meet new friends. Discuss do’s and don’ts in the raising and training of your puppy and generally get a further good insight into the Bullmastiff as a breed. Bear in mind as well, that the Show environment can also be very competitive and things may seem very daunting to the average family. There are many people out there who have had years of experience in raising and training dogs and there is always a lot of valuable information to be gathered by listening and learning. In the conformation ring, a judge has been contracted to perform the task of selecting what they think, to be the best examples of the different breeds that are being presented to them on the day. The Bullmastiff belongs to the Utility Group and a Best Dog and Best Bitch are selected from those entered, to become Best of Breed. The dogs are judged in age classes, from the youngest to the oldest. Those Best of Breeds then compete for Best of Group and have a chance to further compete against the other Best of Group winners for a chance at being awarded Best in Show. Whether or not you wish to pursue the hobby of showing your dog is a decision that can be made at any stage. But there are some issues that do need to be addressed which involve ensuring that your Bullmastiff is properly lead trained and is not aggressive or shy in meeting new people or other dogs. Socialisation in any case is an extremely important aspect of bringing up your dog correctly. I am always in favour of introducing your puppy to pretty much any and everything possible in a safe and controlled environment. By this I mean, after puppy has completed the necessary vaccination requirements and is becoming used to lead training, and basic obedience commands, it is time to introduce him to the big wide world. Hopefully your puppy will be a good traveller. If you are planning to go out for the day make sure that puppy does not get fed just before he is going out. Feed him at least 2 hours before hand and if you need to take meals for him, just prepare light meals so his stomach wont be full and upset if he is not going to be a good traveler. Make sure he has his bag of necessary items packed as well. Water is the most essential thing to take. They can survive without food for the day but they are easily susceptible to dehydration if their fluids are not kept up. His collar and lead and also doggy scooper bags for I would like to think that every single person out there with a dog cleans up after them. If you have doggy parks to go to that is great. Please remember though, the Bullmastiff is a breed that is very head strong and a young or older dog for that matter can be a handful to control when they get excited. Under no circumstances ever, no matter how well obedience trained your dog becomes, would I ever recommend letting your dog off leash in a public area. That is my opinion, others I am sure would not be phased, but it only takes a second for an uncontrolled dog to become, in the eyes of the general public, an out of control dog. As the Bullmastiff is a large breed dog, it is very important that they are not exercised to a great extent when they are young. And even as they reach their 1st birthday it does not mean that they are physically mature to go with you on a 5 km run. They are not! Generally as a rule Bullmastiffs do not structurally mature until they are about 3 or even 4 years old. They can go through growth stages that to the novice eye may look very strange, but usually their body parts will all catch up with each other in time. It is all part of being a Bullmastiff. The Bullmastiff Standard. General Appearance: Powerful build, symmetrical, showing great strength, but not cumbersome; sound and active. Characteristics: Powerful, enduring, active and reliable. Temperament: High spirited, alert and faithful. Head And Skull: Skull large and square, viewed from every angle, fair wrinkle when interested, but not when in repose. Circumference of skull may equal height of dog measured at top of shoulder; broad and deep with well filled cheeks. Pronounced stop. Muzzle short; distance from tip of nose to stop approximately one third of length from tip of nose to centre of occiput, broad under eyes and sustaining nearly same width to end of nose; blunt and cut off square, forming right angle with upper line of face, and at same time proportionate with skull. Underjaw broad to end. Nose broad with widely spreading nostrils; flat, neither pointed nor turned up in profile. Flews not pendulous, never hanging below level of lower jaw. Eyes: Dark or hazel, of medium size, set apart the width of muzzle with furrow between. Light or yellow eyes highly undesirable. Ears: V-shaped, folded back, set on wide and high, level of occiput giving square appearance to skull which is most important. Small and deeper in colour than body. Point of ear level with eye when alert. Rose ears highly undesirable. Mouth: Level desired but slightly undershot allowed but not preferred. Canine teeth large and set wide apart, other teeth strong, even and well placed. Neck: Well arched, moderate length, very muscular and almost equal to skull in circumference. Forequarters: Chest, wide and deep, well let down between forelegs, with deep brisket. Shoulders muscular, sloping and powerful, not overloaded. Forelegs powerful and straight, well boned, set wide apart, presenting a straight front. Pasterns straight and strong. Body: Back short and straight, giving compact carriage, but not so short as to interfere with activity. Roach and sway backs highly undesirable. Hindquarters: Loins wide and muscular with fair depth of flank. Hindlegs strong and muscular, with well developed second thighs, denoting power and activity, not cumbersome. Hocks moderately bent. Cow hocks highly undesirable. Feet: Well arched, cat like, with rounded toes, pads hard. Dark toe nails desirable. Splayed feet highly undesirable. Tail: Set high, strong at root and tapering, reaching to hocks, carried straight or curved, but not hound fashion. Crank tails highly undesirable. Gait/Movement: Movement indicates power and sense of purpose. When moving straight neither front nor hind legs should cross or plait, right front and left rear leg rising and falling at same time. A firm backline unimpaired by powerful thrust from hindlegs denoting a balanced and harmonious movement. Coat: Short and hard, weather resistant, lying flat to body. Long, silky or woolly coats highly undesirable. Colour: Any shade of brindle, fawn or red; colour to be pure and clear. A slight white marking on chest permissible. Other white markings undesirable. Black muzzle essential, toning off towards eyes, with dark markings around eyes contributing to expression. Sizes: Height: Dogs 64-69 cms (25-27 ins) at shoulder Bitches 61-66 cms (24-26 ins) at shoulder Weight: Dogs 50-59 kg (110-130 lbs) Bitches 41-50 kg (90-110 lbs) Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog. Notes: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum. The Bullmastiff has been bred from a Bulldog/Mastiff mix developed through many years to produce a breed that would perform its duty for the Gamekeeper. Balance and proportion are very important. He should be a powerfully built dog, showing great strength but not cumbersome. If he is overweight, incorrectly constructed, clumsy and with bad feet, he will be unable to perform his work. Ideally he should have a square proportioned head with his muzzle being 1/3 the length of his entire head. Level bite is preferred. The Bullmastiff should be muscular and powerful in his movement, covering the ground with purpose. With well developed forequarters and thighs, a strong topline tight pasterns and good tight cat feet. Height and weight are important as they must be able to hold down a poacher but also they must not be overweight and cumbersome, which would deter them from moving through forests, quickly and quietly. It is important to realise that not every Bullmastiff is going to be a show winning specimen. What is important is that the breeders continue to strive for a happy, healthy dog. One that will be loved and will return that love to whom ever is lucky enough to own this magnificent breed. Debbie Morrison-Teirney Stonebridge Bullmastiffs and Bulldogs. Australia and New Zealand.

Good luck everyone and thanks also. The road has been a rocky one for us. I chose not to mate our younger girl until now and she is nearly 4. Gone completely off her food so it has been very stressful. ETA yes whipitgood. it is so heartbreaking to see no babies. Good luck for tomorrow

have had a very picky eater here. She hasnt been well and we have had to medicate her for an infection. hence the appetite dropped to almost nothing. slowly coming back. With boiled minced chicken frames, rice, dog roll. she shared with me a banana dipped in yoghurt tonight for her pudding LOL. it was a peice of banana for me and a peice for her.

Thanks J She is doing well after her op. She had pyo. Her daughter is one I posted about back in March who had pyo but I nursed and treated. I am so looking forward to babies. They will be so special. Wont be much of a colour choice though LOL hugs scooby

Well we have good news and bad news. My girl who was due around the 22nd is just been spayed today. She had an infection. Still waiting to hear back from the vet on her recovery. But we have some good news with my other girl(daughter of our beautiful girl being spayed) With at least 4 showing up on ultrsound. Still quite early though so it looks like she may of taken anywhere up to 3 days after her last mating. One door closing and another opens, albeit slowly. hugs to all big hugs needed for my girls recovery oh yes and the sire is the big fella on my avatar. handsome dude he is

I have a couple of litters that may be due in October. Yet to confirm. around 18th and 22nd of October. Life may throw a surprise and they both could be preggers LOL.

R-L I have owned all at the same time, French Bulldogs, Bulldogs, Bullmastiffs and Kelpies. I have never had a problem with them not being able to cope. In saying that playtimes were strictly supervised. If they are healthy they can handle a good amount of rough and tumble. eta Thanks stonebridge, would you leave your frenchie unsupervised with a big dog with a playful temperament but not overly excited. for example you have to go to work and you leave them in the yard? or would you have separate yards for them. No I wouldnt leave them together unsupervised like that. All my dogs over the years have always had their own space when we are not home. Whether it be crated or outside runs. They are never left together. We had an older Bulldog that we would lift up on our bed while we were at work. She was the only one that we would leave out. Now, one of our Bullmastiffs we can not crate her as she found out she can get out of them

we had to invest in concrete waterbowls for the BM's. It still didnt make much of a difference to one of my girls who insisted that she had to dig the water out of the bowl but at least it was something