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That was Dante....he's so awesome at costing money. That was cheap..............it cost me way over twice that! That was middle of the night emergency surgery, a couple of plasma transfusions, 3 days in hospital, IV fluids, multiple blood tests, lots of drugs....................... Hope he's okay and it's nothing serious. Dollop just has to out do Dante doesn't he We didn't have to do after hours, I think that saved a bucket load!

Because they probably want their money back which is reasonable.

I have breed pred that developed from previous experiences, I think that's pretty natural even if you don't want to be....survival instinct and all that.

Use the toy! Dog does something you want then you give them the toy as a reward and have a play for a monent, then ask for "Give", ask for something else and so the cycle continues. If it's a real problem you could look at transferring her toy value to food but I think toy value is good, just have to get use to how to use it.

He he! She gets two walks a day (morning and evening) and when I am at work we play/train after her walk and after our tea then she is off to bed by 8 as she gets over tired and bitey! I think I have mucked up her routine a bit by being on holidays and home with her! She is funny when she gets tired, she gets crazier! Rather than lazier! That is when she is off to her crate for a sleep. In the time between writing my post and your replies (thank you!!) I remembered advice to tether her inside sometimes so I have and now she is having a quiet play at my feet! I will also use her crate as suggested! Thanks a lot! :D If I'm home for whatever reason when I normally would be at work I treat the dogs the same i.e. puppy stays in her kennel, I think routine is really important for pups.

I find puppies are like 3 years olds, when they're tired they can go mental. If my pup goes mental then in a nice way I pop her in her crate and always make sure she has a chew item in there....within seconds she's asleep.

Any dog we pulled from the pound always had dry skin with some dandruff and mild itching, some Aloveen which is suited to this condition and Omegas in the diet usually has them come good! A good balanced diet of course

Ok, I'll keep that in mind, I'm just thinking of them for crate chews rather than unsupervised.

Oh! Where do you get those?!

That was Dante....he's so awesome at costing money.

Not sure if these are close to you or deliver to your location: http://www.leadingraw.com/ (QLD) http://www.thebarfshop.com.au/shop/index.php?cPath=58 (QLD) Currently stock CC although I'd say theyd just switch to another brand. http://www.drianbillinghurst.com/distributors.php?pid=5 (QLD) Dr Billinghurst. http://www.petsunleashed.com.au/Product/complete-meal-raw-diet (QLD) Complete Meal http://www.petcity.com.au/raw4paws.php (QLD)

What are your thoughts/experiences? From Googling some people say they're too hard and can cause broken teeth and do forth.

http://shop.ebay.com.au/tracey6230/m.html?_trksid=p4340.l2562

Then get out and SOCIALISE your dogs. Cover their crates so they cant see any other dogs or people when they walk passed. Myself, my dogs and other exhibitors and their dogs should not have to put up with dogs lunging at crate walls at us walking passed and carrying on barking, snarling etc. You wouldnt accept it from a larger dog, a GSD or Rotti or Dobe so it is not ok from smaller dogs. (i dont care which would cause more damage if they connected) - it is not acceptable for the dog walking down the street to behave like that and it is not acceptable for show dogs either Did you read my next line?? I was reacting to this sort of comment: Rousing at a terrified dog doesn't stop if from being terrified, it makes it more terrified! My little dogs have been lunged and accosted at by all kinds, big and small! I didn't get apologies either. There are crates holding large breeds where they fling themselves at crate walls to get at you and your dogs. You can stand pointing at the Toy ring and ignore the fact that there is ignorant and lazy owners elsewhere. I recall a poor stressed out Ridgeback at a royal who had a sheet draped over their cage but was still making unpleasant aggressive noises and "rocking" the cage. Dog really should not have been at the Royal and certainly not had it's cage in a walkway. I felt sorry for it and could see it was an accident waiting to happen. Maybe I can make a diary of walking my well socialised small fluffy and the things he has to deal with, with dogs that are 10 times bigger than him. If you believe your dogs are fear aggressive then stop having them live in that constant state of fear at shows, get them behavioural help....or leave them at home.

That analogy is incorrect, humans and apes are different species (indeed there are different species of ape too) however dogs and wolves are the same species. A more accurate analogy would be comparing subspecies or subtypes within a species. Although I agree to a certain extent that comparisons can be fraught with danger as modern dog breeds have predominantly had vastly different selection pressures placed on them as a result of selective breeding there are still certain commonalities with regards to behaviour that allow some comparisons to be made. The problem tends to occur when allowances are not made with regard to the divergence of the subtypes and the impact of domestication and artificial selection pressures. I've had this argument before with horse people who think that every horse should be barefoot because horses in the wild are barefoot and that's what nature intended, the problem with this is that horses have been selectively bred away from the wild horse in many many aspects and while some breeds have retained good and hardy feet some haven't as that hasn't been a selection priority. This is but one example of where some breeds of domestic horse have diverged significantly from the wild type and therefore cannot be effectively compared. The same has occurred with dogs but to an even greater extent, many aspects of wolf behaviour have been selectively bred away from in many breeds while others are closer to their ancestral behaviour hence why we have so called 'primitive breeds'. It doesn't mean that the ancestral wolf doesn't play a big part in interpretation of behaviour it just means that it's not the only factor we should consider. Ok, you totally over analysed such a black and white comment......simply saying that just because they evolved from wolves doesn't mean they should be treated the same in terms of understanding pack/behaviour/communication etc.

I have a Large Home Aloner for my Dane pup and it's perfect. You can make your own suspended toys however be very careful to get the suspension height correct, you need to keep any metal well away from where the dogs jump to and also need to factor in strangulation too.

To think we should treat dogs like Wolves is like thinking we should treat humans llike Apes.

How to stop dogs destroying stuff: NEVER EVER give them an opportunity to do so. If you can not be there to supervise your dog then put them in the backyard or crate.

It's very early days yet! Expect crying, whining, screaming etc. There are some things you can do. Cover the crate fully with a sheet, lift it up and reward puppy if the puppy is quiet, the moment puppy starts whining etc. drop the sheet and wait for the whining to stop and then lift the sheet and reward, repeat, repeat, repeat. OR Completely ignore all sounds, it will probably drive you mental but dogs only do what is rewarding so if you're not rewarding the dog with any form of attention when it's being noisey then there is no reason for the dog to continue....could take a week or more. I highly reccomend the Crate Games DVD that teaches you could to condition your puppy/dog to love its' crate: http://www.agilityclick.com/prod157.htm

Me too!

So sorry

Are you in Sydney? If so, call Peter, he's a Canine Muscle Manipulator, he may be a drive for you but he's always worth it: 0411 353 130, from memory he's $30.00. Sorry, just saw your in Bathurst. Good luck.

The best is whatever your dog does well on. Alot of allergic dogs do really badly on Aloveen as it contains Oatmeal. There was a video form a Vet that was talking about Oatmeal feeding Yeast infections and that Oatmeal shampoos should really only be used for Dry flaky Skin. My itchy Dog gets washed on human QV Shampoo and rinsed is White Vinegar diluted with water and/or the QV oil that acts as a barrier/conditioner - this works best for him but may be off no use to other dogs.

I'm affraid we don't have a positive situation. The longest my dog has been off Cortisone is 12 days and that's us trying everything we possibly can, so we have never been able to do the Withholding period for Intra-Dermal testing. We did do the Blood Allergen testing and then the desensitising injections with no success at all, that was about $500.00. I have known people to do the Intra-Dermal and then the Injections with no improvement or they have had to stay on the injections for the life of the dog to keep any improvment going. I think I have only heard of a few dogs that have had improvement that I have read about here. I'm sure there's more but I just haven't read about them. Have you tried Atopica, expensive but maybe within your budget for a dog the size of a bulldog compared to my Dane My advice to anyone with an itchy dog these days is get into see the Derm before you go on Cortisone because you may never be able to stay off it long enough for the withholding periods.

Completely agree with this! I had much more success in improving the behaviour and it was easier and less stressful with my dog aggro dog when I moved to a less populated area. Same here.