Dogsfevr

Big difference between conditioning a dog to collar holding & what you suggested for discipline which was Lift it up & say no .Personally something i would never dream off doing lifting a dog up by the collar to say no & certainly not on a breed or individual dog with a soft neck . As your Malinios showed signs off aggression i gather it was working lines & would have been trained doing bite work from 8 weeks like many are in that breed . I would also doubt service dogs are disciplined in that manner by forcibly lifting them up ?? Service dogs are taught to accept & be rewarded by owners using the harness to assist with daily chores rarely the use off pulling a collar around the throat. And if catching a dog by a collar that hasn't been taught to be collar held but jumped straight to discipline than its not going to be any help either .

All the clients here whose dogs we groom get a needle test done,slides checked and outcome based on that ,simple and easy . Unless the lump feels attached or odd looking then start simple

Not surprising he does the nipping being brushed but something you need to start being more in control off .Your puppy should not be nipping even at that age whilst being brushed . Walking wise puppy can walk out the front onleash ,we walk our puppies for lead training pre homing out the front from 6 weeks . Seeing the world,seeing cars ,hearing noises is a must . Most vets explain it wrong there. Grooming wise find a groomer early who will get the pup into a good routine early . As a groomer most leave it till 6 months and bring a nippy ,untrained pup for there groom . Where do you brush the pup .It doesn’t get to tell you what it wants ,brushing is fir life let it take control now and you will have an unpleasant 12 odd years ahead . We tell our puppy owners to buy a non slip matt,place on washing machine or bench and brushing/touch time / feet,eyes,ear checks happen there . Most people brush on the lounge,there lap or flip them upside down.

First off you need to address what the humans are doing and before you say nothing you all need to accept there is 2 parts here . often the behaviour is cute for a few days ,human starts something puppy gets over stimulated humans decide puppy is naughty and needs stopping . puppy pens are a great tool but not for punishment or being told off whilst being placed in it especially if the humans have joint responsibility in creating the end result. Puppy pens are great for puppy time out,calm time,sleep time and learning to be on it’s on time . It has its chew toys in there to enable it to have fun and just settle without the drama and reactions off humans often fluffing about adding to the pups reaction . So what the pup needs to learn is self control,this happens during calmtouch time,calm brush time and just sitting calmly. Pups learns reward on being taught the right behaviour. When most people pat dogs they insist on doing so at the top off the head pup gets mouthy human pulls hand away and tries again and pup responds again ,human created reward . Start teaching tricks ,direct puppy to simple tricks to use its brain,spin,walk backwards so many options off breaking that moment and creating a listening aspect instead . Humans need to learn to stop flapping hands or allowing the “ oh it’s cute moment” . Pup sounds like it’s enjoying the game but has no idea it’s not a game . So what activities do you do with pup training wise,how is brushing and combing going,lead training

My advice is you do have to make decisions with your head not your heart,your dog deserves that . The decision either way is the right answer for that dog in question . The dog we had whose eye was removed & he also had vision issues in the other eye ,he enjoyed 3 more years off quality life . Do all dogs cope no which is why only you know your dog . The eye removal will remove the pain that will be affecting the dog more than anything else . With our boy we opted for the treatment path but in hindsight we should have removed the eye sooner ,we have no regrets in the path we chose BUT have a new thought process if it ever happens again . He was a different dog withing 24 hrs pain wise . At present your dog is both eyed vision impaired so this is a trial run ,the difference is the eye at present will be causing discomfort . So if you opt for eye removal don't under estimate the dogs ability to cope & if you do then you need to put your adult pants on to set the dog up for success ,you cant bring it home & feel guilty & do everything ,this is where making the right decision factors . Our boy still walked around an acre ,had his wobbles but we allowed him independence,we set up his mud map for water & life must haves.If going out he was in a puppy pen or his kennel run where we new he was safe from weather issues as our dogs have 24/7 access to the doggy door ,we had to adapt to certain things to ensure his safety but 95% lived a fully functional life until his smell & hearing went then he struggled as he had no senses left to assist in his ability to life happily

We have had a dogs eye removed . Biggest regret not doing it sooner . Ulcers happen quickly and progress even quicker .

Ulcers are distressing too dogs irrespective,If you feel it’s the drops phone the vet,the dog may also be reacting too you holding the eye area to place the drops or cream in so you need to also consider that . Tricin is great but no one can tell you what option without knowing what stage the ulcer is at ,your vet is your go to person or a referral to an eye specialist

Her breeder should be able to assist with all this info as they have offered a mains registered pup to her . There a very few hoops to jump through BUT enough hoops to make people more accountable for wanting to become a breeder & learning to read the rules & regs instead off mating 2 dogs & bingo puppies . Its not hard if your truly keen & interested

If the pup is in WA they do not have to sell with papers ,all pups MUST be registered though. You will be the legal owner as per the microchip papers and sale receipt

It changed

We have clients here who have a week wait fir there first lot of pets but that may change with the Perth heatwave next week

I had a bitch who would kill the pups . She could not be left with them but with thinking outside the box we could assist her to cope with feeding. She actually hated them crawling around her and just couldn’t cope. Take her to a neutral area with no other pups around she would allow feeds with us being her support. When pups turned 6 weeks she was an amazing mum fir p,aging but the crying,crawling she couldn’t process

Do one at a time away from the rest . On your bed,the lounge

Actually this is the best age to engage puppy . Dont over train the showing,it’s boring repetitive and you can teach quickly to unengage Leash training is walking . Stacking and focus training be creative . I will train puppies with various distractions,toys,balls even food on the floor . Introduce more interesting training tools like free stacks on the jackpot spot. Teach walk up onto a mat things that brain focus and watching you is more exciting Puppies crave there humans at this age for learning,listening BUT will switch off quickly to repetitive boring . I actually do very little show training as such with my guys but focus on fun games that work in the ring

Do both ,mum under strict supervision . She may never be a mum as such but trying is a must

Actually it’s not just about the treats . What was on the floor was more interesting than the job at hand . Dog wasnt interested in your voice and direction which is part of the show ring tool kit. Lead placement ,speed and joy from you will win out over food . Food is your final tool . But for options it’s what your dog works for which is like a box of chocolates. I use fish fingers,tiny teddies,bakery bread,sausage,chicken nuggets,banana chips ,steak,chicken,cat biscuits,liver home cooked .

I would suggest getting a spot on a flight for the dog will be the bigger challenge,Covid has severely affected pet transportation. My dogs fly a lot and picking flights is a priority but this year has changed all the normal

No problems I do cool air fluff outs regularly on the coated dogs after spraying

Contact the Newfoundland club in your state or the main club they will most likely have all the details you need

Actually one off the biggest issues is some people do way too much off everything without paying attention to the stress signs the dog is displaying .A trainer is only as good as the trainer & too many cant read a dog . It sounds like you had the expectations that if i did YTV then all would be good but it sounds like the dog has been pushed way out off its comfort zone & walking out the front door is overwhelming & it has no idea how to behave,react or process the outside world . Keep in mind your frustration is nothing compared to how the dog feels . Sounds like you need a behavioural trainer who is actually good to get you back on track . Whilst young maybe consider a thyroid test

So she can do all that on the associate register but I’m gathering as you don’t want her spayed there lies your issue . So in the end it comes down to having the info to meet a recognised ANKC option ,breeding her then spaying her to compete in ANKC . UKC i gather your meaning the America which won’t give you a back door option to ANKC as UKC papers aren’t part of the reconized body anyway .

What sports are you wanting to compete in that she is currently ineligible for

Where not vets & we cant see the exact issue ,if your worried go to the vet

What advice has the breeder given ? Sorry to ask is the pup full Great Dane or a slight mix?? I would be inclined to take the collar off due to the lack of hair underneath or certainly be mindful off that area in watching for irritation . I would want a skin scraping done to rule out mites . Also a raw diet is only as good is it being right portions .