sas

Hi, Great Dane Rescue NSW & Friends would like to let the Rescue community know they are doing 'all breeds' rescue via Cowra pound and surrounding pounds where feasible. This group is a registered charity. https://www.facebook.../cowrapetrescue www.greatdanerescue.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Kylie who is the groups new President (existing committee member and carer) and Cowra local. As the former President of 10 years who needs a break! I know Kylie will do an outstanding job and she is very passionate about supporting the Cowra and surrounding area dogs of all breeds.

I haven't used them personally but know someone who has. The dog was funny (could potentially bite) with people so to make it accept pats for photos for his FB page he walked it around in 40 degrees temperatures until it was exhausted and then had children pat it. I've seen a bit of water squirter bottle mentioned too. I'm not fussed about no qualies as there are people walking around trained by the NDTF and Delta that I wouldn't let near my dogs. Technique that you're comfortable with and results is what I personally look for. Our Great Dane Rescue Service uses Craig Murray from Premier Training: 0408 113 874 and have done for about 8 years now. No dominance theory training methods, really easy going, great results.

Have you sent you a private message with a recommendation for someone who does on on ones.

Yes, skin testing....intra-dermal does not do food.

Amen.

That's not quite accurate. Mostly white coloured dogs of some breeds can have very challenging skin conditions such as White, Merle-a-quin and Harlequin Great Danes, Blues in the Great Dane breed also seem to have a number of challenges with their skin. Some colours are affected because they become on-trend and are bred by those who don't know or care enough by what they're doing and as you mentioned ethical breeding... But a defective skin barrier is what it is if Atopy is a problem and this is known to have a genetic component and that means Mum & Dad can be free of symptoms. Sorry SAS I don't quite get what you're saying... In my experience, the careful selection of breeding stock has far more influence on the skin health of the dog than the colour of the dog. We can argue the influence of trendy colours, over breeding and genetics until the cows come home but it has been my experience that if the pup isn't bred with care and attention to the health of the parents and their relations then it really doesn't matter what colour it is. I have had a number of white Staffords over the years, they have had no skin conditions. I have seen white, brindle, red and blue pups from well bred litters, all with no skin issues. I have seen white, brindle, red and blue pups from poorly bred litters, some with skin conditions, some without. It's been my observation over the years that two perfectly OK parents can produce horrible skin conditions, but you only have to dig a wee bit deeper to find close relations with horrible skin conditions. Which is where buying from someone who does the right thing is vastly more important than the actual colour of the dog. Hi Sandra, I totally agree what with what you're saying. The prob the modern pet buyer has is that there isn't often such thing as 'lines' anymore, not in my breed anyway. The average dog is bred from a mish mash of different lines and so commonly a breeder doesn't know a dog 6 gens back well enough who seems to have been slightly reactive to 1 grass... Now, because many breeds are have particular colours, I'll use my own breed as an example i.e. the Harlequin, the Harlequin is bred by Harlequin breeders, not by Fawn breeders, so if you take the above example and apply to Harlequins and add something like popular sire syndrome, small gene pool etc. you now have a colour that is largely affected by skin issues. It takes a breeder of not only ethics but of knowledge and courage to cull a dog from their breeding program that has a slight reaction to a grass. You sound like you're doing an outstanding job in your breed, sadly there are many that don't even come close to you.

The only accurate food allergy/intolerance test in the world is Nutriscan. The blood test ones are hugely inaccurate and Dermatologists don't pay them any attention so do not get overly concerned about those results. You'll want to start off with something less rich if yoru dog is already sensative, Roo can do that to many dogs. That's not quite accurate. Mostly white coloured dogs of some breeds can have very challenging skin conditions such as White, Merle-a-quin and Harlequin Great Danes, Blues in the Great Dane breed also seem to have a number of challenges with their skin. Some colours are affected because they become on-trend and are bred by those who don't know or care enough by what they're doing and as you mentioned ethical breeding... But a defective skin barrier is what it is if Atopy is a problem and this is known to have a genetic component and that means Mum & Dad can be free of symptoms. ___ I feel for you, this thread is full of inconsistent information. The best thing you can do is get a referral to a Dermatologist.

I have to say I'm pretty concerned you're not at the Vet. This is a serious problem, if you don't sort it out immediately those ligaments will stretch out and you'll have a dog that knuckles over as an adult. Your need to get your dog onto an appropriate diet. Your breeder should have told you what to feed and you should be communicating with your breeder about this issue. Absolutely No Calcium. I wouldn't feed Supercoat because it's a low quality kibble. There's plenty of high quality kibbles for slow growth such as Canidae Large Breed Puppy, Holistic Select Giant Breed Puppy, Blackhawk Fish & Potato (because it is an adult kibble you have to at least double it). Make sure this puppy is not on any slippery surfaces, use rugs and block off access to areas you can't rug.

If you have skin issues ask for a referral to a Dermatologist, this is really the only logical next step that will prevent you from wasting money on diets full of fillers and low quality ingredients tauted to make dogs better with no consideration to their health and well-being 5-10 years down the track.

Have sent you a message with a recommendation for one on ones.

Cod is your main problem when it comes to Thiaminase. We feed raw fish maybe once a week, it's not something you really want to be feeding too regularly if it's not cooked. Parasites (tapeworm) are typically a problem with your freshwater fish. Australian standards for human consumption of raw fish is to freeze for 1 week at -20c or -35c for a minimum of 15 hours. Then cooking at 60c for 1-2 minutes to inactivate the larvae. Herring, Mackerel and Blue Whiting are your main problem when it comes to parasites.

8 months....most likely 2nd fear period impacting here. Anything to do with aggression needs a professional to come in to assess and give a program. After that, the family should decide if this dog is safe and suitable as a family dog with children.

No one cares, in NSW it's allowed. I take my little mixed breed dog sometimes if he's doing agility at the lower Dogs NSW fields on the same say as a show and apart from a couple of double takes trying to guess what breed he may be no one says anything.

Man, you need to read "I won the lotto" thread!

How long they shed the virus is depending on if they have had the KC Vacc or not i.e. 1 vs 3 weeks. We've never been particularly worried about KC with foster dogs, once the symptoms have ceased then we just move on. We use UMF high level Manuka Honey as soon as any gagging or coughing starts and usually that stops it from getting to that really horrible peak where they are vomiting and can't eat etc.

Like lemon? Or do you mean oranges & mandarins? I put lemon & lemon slices iin some meat casseroles which HH sometimes eats. Dogs aren't fantastic at breaking down the acids in fruits so it's not something you want to be giving on a regular basis or in any great amount. In regards to Lemons, it's the psoralen compound that's the issue and in many dogs it can cause diarrhea, light sensitivity and vomiting - I'm not familiar with the specific amounts per kilo of dog.

They would be best to be assessed by a Therapist in their own home town because if any online advice is given it could be detrimental to the dogs problem.

I don't think medication is terrible but I don't think it should be the 1st or even 2nd option. Many behavioural challenges can be worked through with behavioural modification programs. The Behaviourist will be able to let you know if they feel your dog could benefit from medication. Many Behaviourist these days recommend a supplement such as PetArk Calm whilst working through a program. I have seen the great results meds can have and I have also seen the negative side effects i.e. aggression with dogs via our rescue service who have tried them. I'm sure you'll have an awesome time at your behavioural session and come away feeling more informed and seeing a light at the end of the tunnel.

I have a Dane (80 kilos) and a Lab x (16 kilos), they don't play together because the Dane couldn't figure out how not to pommel the Lab x when he really got into play. If you want play mates then getting size appropriate dogs is fair and safer.

Absolutely however avoid citric fruits.

You would do best getting a referral to a Dermatologist then you're not wasting time or money.

I find they work best in conjunction with a behavioural modification training program. We have used them many times in Dane Rescue.

I'd recommend getting the x-rays because then you'll know what you're dealing with. I've seen great outcomes of Golden Paste (Turmeric & ground pepper) as well as NZ Green Lip Mussel. What you'll want to try and deal with going forward is compensation issues if the dog isn't putting full weight on the foot and you can work through this with your local massage or physio therapist.

Dogs can meet their Vit C nutritional needs by themselves, however there is some recent research that indicates that the antioxidant properties of Vit C can assist in a range of different health challenges such as Cancer & heart disease and other illnesses that involve oxidative damage. Dogs that have issues with urinary calcium oxalate crystals and stones shouldn't dose with Vit C unless they speak to their Vet first. I did see a study some time ago about high doses of Vit C as a management for conditions such as Hip Dip in Labradors, unfortunately I don't have that link to share right at the moment. Vit C is often recommended for Arthritis because of its synthesis of the connective tissue collagen which is a very important part of Cartilage. And then there's the most known use of Vit C and that is to shorten the duration of illness with things such as colds and flu. It can be used with Kennel Cough cases along with medicinal manuka honey to prevent the illness from peaking if you get tot it quick enough. Does it help with performance? Apparently not, it can actually do the opposite: http://jn.nutrition....32/6/1616S.full In terms of side effects, I have grabbed this as a reference for those interested: In pets and in people, high-doses of vitamin C may cause diarrhea. There have been warnings that long-term vitamin C treatment can cause kidney stones, but in a large-scale study the people who took the most vitamin C (over 1,500 mg daily) actually had a lower risk of kidney stones than those taking the least amounts. Nonetheless, people with a history of kidney stones and those with kidney failure who have a defect in vitamin C or oxalate metabolism should probably restrict vitamin C intake to approximately 200 mg daily. While there is no evidence that stone formation increases people or pets supplemented use with vitamin C, talk with your veterinarian before adding extra vitamin C if your pet is prone to urinary stones. Vitamin C may also reduce the blood-thinning effects of Coumadin (warfarin) and heparin. Vitamin C may increase the blood levels of some drugs, such as aspirin and other salicylates.

I don't understand why a rescue will not adopt a dog to a home that has an undesexed dog if the dog they are rehoming is desexed? How bizarre? How does it impact anything? These days there is overwhelming evidence to state why dogs shouldn't be desexed young or at all, it's completely up to a family if they wish to not desex their dog. There are so many great families who keep entire dogs that are responsible. Maybe because I have a foot in the show dog world and also in the rescue world I have a different overview of the situation than many rescue only people? Yes, all rescue dogs have to be desexed but how is it any of your business if their other dog is entire or not? It's about as relevant as if the human male has been cut or not.