Dogsfevr

Diet plays a big part in a dogs health & cat food is one to avoid. What did the breeder suggest you feed?? Grumbly stomachs isnt normal so make a list of what you feed & also add any treats,pig ears etc etc. All foods need to be considered when you have a dog with an issue. With the bassett if its grumbling alot i would also consider the diet especially as its a breed so prone to bloat..

Does the dog swin in water or dam like water alot??

we dont use beef as that is a major cause of skin issues We use mutton or roo

I agree go to a dogshow,it s free & you can see so many dogs in real life first. Of the breeds listed cavies are great,english springer spaniels are bigger than cockers but smaller than goldies & there great family pets aswell. There are so many breeds that would be suitable its really a case of size,exercise,coat & what you expect of the dog in the family set up, alos whether it will be inside /outside. Size of your car for fitting dog & family in.

What are you feeding now. Personally i would use hills in a pink fit ieven there z/d diet has certain ingredients known to be skin issue food. What are you feeding now & do you feel there is improvement??If you feel the dog is doing well on your diet then i would stick to it. For our double coated dogs we simply bath in either selsum blue or heads & shoulders & especially any dogs with skin issues via grooming we also use this & found it to be way better than the dog range . His coat could be wirey as hes started to self strip.If the dog hasnt been groomed whilst not being big shedders the coat will eventually die & could also have had fleas.. Most vets will say the hills range which i think is far to expensive & doesnt work that well.

We groom a number of westies that have poor coats due to no undercoat which can be due to its breeding. You say your groomer is good so i will guess they will understand not to clip it too short,westies with no undercoat clipped short end up with the problems occuring over & over. Everyone will suggest a different product.For our dogs the advance range makes them itch(double coated breed)

My experience of raising singletons has been the pup turned out to be true gem,laidback,very social & no trouble at all with social manners. We havent had any monsters & my friends also who often have singleton pup have never had any behavioural issues either.so for me i cant say 1 pup as turned out any worse than those in a litter. Some pups arent as cuddly as others,maybe you are over doing it & the pup isnt sure how to react .How many people pick the pup up?? Do you just grab pup or give it a chance to acknowledge your there??

We dont recommend to our pup owners the heartworm jab & most certainly shouldnt be given on the same day. The problem is too many pet owners dont ask questions.Ask your vet why,reactions,benefits etc etc. Its like the vets that give C7 why when most dogs arent in areas that makes them high risk. Most certainly ensure the vet has reported it but we are also finding far to many vets are handing out print out vacc sheets only & even with the cards arent placing the sticker of the brand/batch number .The sticker is supllied with the vacc & is the record for any problems or future reference so if your vet isnt placing the sticker also insist on that ,The manufactures supply them .

We have a doggy dorr open all year 24/7. Our pups are taught from very early to use a doggy door & we then encourage our puppy owners to have one before bringing pup home to continue what they already now

Okay what you need o consider is showing & obedience on weekends will often clash.You will be resposnable for keeping the dog in peak show condition.Someone will have to train this baby.How far away do the breeders live in relation to organizing dogshows.Who will be taking the dog to the show & who will pay that cost. Weekend away shows or specialities in the east?? The showing part is the easiest part the breeding side is more technical.How many litters would they want if she turns out?? You may have to keep her entire for up to 6 yrs & then consider when shes in heat could be good trail weekends. When she whelps she wont be with you.You also need to understand that things can go wrong when whelping & very occasionally the bitch can die,where would you stand?? I guess the key is how committed do you want to be to this type of arrangement.For many it works well for others it doesnt & you would need to make sure the contract covered yourside aswell

Handstripping will cost alot more than a clip.The thing with handstripping is you still have to work on the coat .Once stripped you need to maintain that coat & work on the hairs that are growing faster etc etc. In some westies you can roll the coat but again that is weekly maintance. You could pay for someone to strip but it doesnt just stop there,if you want to show you still need to scissor feet,head,face etc etc. For us we charge $50 to clip a westie ,to hand strip i would charge double & with stripping the coat must be ready to be stripped Hand stripping is quite easy once your taught but it is time consuming . The main cost are the gear for stripping & each person uses different things to handstrip plus each dogs coat can mean a different product. If your breeder shows i would suggest contacting them again & discussing your pup & its needs for the show ring

Mine are washed for every show,they are also maintance bathed mid week & if its a 2-4 show circuit feathers in between. I also use human shampoo/conditioner.

No you cant have him clipped ,to get the correct coat(providing he has it as some westies do have ppor coat textures)in a show westie it must be handstripped .

Yes if you want to show then the dog needs to be handstripped,completely different to popping into a salon & dog is finished in 2 hrs. You cant clip a westies coat if you want to show it. Was the dog sold on main papers ??Was it sold as as show potential pup??

Murdoch would be my last port of call. We havent used Lark Hill but are well aware of one of the new vets there & he is very good & experienced in larger breeds(growth plates etc). Applecross vet is who we use & for surgery we use Ian Mcdowell There is Cottesloe,rivergum both who have ortho specialists if thats what you want I would go with Applecroos or Lark Hill for opinions

Twice a day here ,more if needed.

remove them the problem wont go away . We had a 10 month old with issues & had them removed asap.Some people havent & its affected the dogs enjoyment for the lead as it hurts

Im thinking her journey on the back of the ute has alot to do with her fear.

IMO you would be well within your rights to ask for a refund. this breeder was irresponsible to sell a puppy to such a young family Yes the breeder should have maybe thought twice but new owners also need to realize there capabilities & committment to a dog.Just because the plan is for it to be outside doesnt make training any less.I also believe a cocker isnt an outside dog any & they thrive on human contact & being part of the family & ofcourse need to be trained for grooming. I applaud this breeder for taking the pup back.They didnt have too although we all now its ethically correct. We to are very careful about selling to families with young children. Some we have refused as the parents didnt take any control when greeting our own mature dogs as a tester,others where able to cope well . I think the most important factor is what people expect a dog to be & how much work they feel they want to committ. In our opinion training the pup is the easy part but educating young children how to interact & treat a pup right is harrder & this also moulds a dogs temp for life. Well done for being honest & returning the pup early on. We refund the owners of our pups fully provided it is returned in the same condition it left in ,its in our puppy contract

We have had quite a few over the years(haematomas (SP).Its no big deal & it isnt harmful just annoys the dog.If left it will heal but leave the ear deformed so surgery is best & some are very low set in the ear canal. They simply slice the ear & then sew either x ray film/mesh to the ear so it drains.What a few weeks remove the stuff & easy peasy. If it isnt could be a grass seed,infection etc etc

You could also give ice cream.

It is never too late the key is though to do it correctly . When you arrive i wouldnt just turf Turtle outside with the others. I would do a nutral greet & meet with the JR first as there the ones to most likely react compared to the greys. Simply dont just presume be the one aware of his body language & gauge when you feel he needs time out. Ideally i would reward time out when he is being very good,so when he is either crated etc he is made to feel secure that his behaviour is good. Then make the most of the time you have in Melb.Even if you plan to get him spayed i would do so in melb alot cheaper & vets use to giant breeds.

Yep have clipped off chows due to being so matted it was the only option suitable for the dogs. We also no longer do them due to the aggression showen by the few we have clipped off. Should add we have Double K clippers which can do the job easily .i wouldnt do a chow clip off if i only had wahl,andis,oster just not enough power & to much time.

How does an undercoat grow thicker? Clipping means clipping the quality coat on top ie in Labs that water proof coat . A good breed for example mini schnauzers,cockers.setters,cavaliers. In schnauzers the pets which are clipped end up with a soft,velvety coat due to clipping.Some still retian there true harsh ,wirey coat but the greater number dont & thats becuase clipping removes the correct texture. There is a difference between a breed having undercoar but still retaining the correct outer coat.In Labs they blow there coat twice a year & look naked but they still retain the true top coat until the coat returns. When you use an undercoat rake on a lab the coat removed is dull,soft.It is the dead undercoat thats sheds & builds up.Simply place the removed coat against the area stripped through & you will the difference. Look at show setters & feel there kneck area that is clipped(cockers also) That area is soft & vevelty but the rest of the top coat is a different texture. Clipping isnt a theory its reality but many breeds arent meant to be clipped they have a coat for a set reason & when maintained correctly isnt an issue When you clip the top coat is whats removed not the undercoat,the top often doesnt grow back the same & results in the undercoat taken over. After clipping professionally for 16 years plus the other years of my own showdogs i see every year the long results of clipping.

For those people who say their coat would grow back dreadfully how do you know? Have you done it? Fom experience. It seems you have only had it done once ,each time the dog is clipped the texture is altered more & more . Great if its worked for you but many people are not informed of what can happen & the results it may achieve & a client should be told the facts & make a decision knowing that .A ruined coat takes even longer to dry as clipping enciurages the undercoat to grow thicker