Dogsfevr

Don't rush out & buy things . If your pup is going to be a show pup then talk to the breeder about show training your pup & leads,you don't need a harness because its a Bulldog . Make sure what ever puppy school you go to it is happy for you to teach stand over sit until your puppy can understand both a mistake many new show people make is teaching sit from day 1 & not stand especially for food. I would suggest show training classes as soon as pup is old enough . If your breeder is a good one who shows there knowledge on what is important to get will be valuable there knowledge in general of the breed will be good, Send them the list & see what they suggest .

First & foremost as the handler you simply need to be more interesting ,treats are a great tool but treats will still only work as well as the handler makes it,so many people are so boring & uninteresting when training there puppies,there voice tone drowns out in the "who cares" category as the same old same is said over again & again & the puppy gets so switched off the rest of the world is more interesting . Many training classes are slow,boring & repetitive ,little minds switch off quickly . Check chains aren't evil any tool can cause harm ,personally i hate harnesses & see to many dog owners who think there gentler & end up with a out of control dog they can't control. Go to a dog show & you will see lots of puppies on chains showing & behaving a treat BUT it comes down to the handlers personality as well. All my show dogs are shown on check chain style leads except i use fabric , Lead training should be joyful & exciting & most people make the mistake of being to nice as babies. I agree with others get a good trainer that can assess your mistakes or ask someone at your club to help you one on one as your having troubles ,a good club should have no issues . Did you do puppy pre school?

High Four pet supplies in Melton ,good sturdy crates & come in different colours .They aren't light but will with stand all sorts of stuff & a great prices

Is it barking because its outside or is it barking because it wants breakfast they are waiting it out

I think you also need to consider if you want to pet sit then you need to set up a safe area for the client dogs.

I would suggest you get a non slip mat or if you have a bench area that isn't slippery & each day place puppy up there for touch time .Calmly place puppy up & just pat ,no performance . This is important if you need to go to the vet anyway as most will place them up on the table to treat. The table is neutral & an area where you can teach & bond quickly ,as she gets better you will also groom her & check feet & body for lumps & bumps plus if you need to apply spot ons,creams etc etc the table is a great tool . All my show puppies that will weigh nearly 40 kg are brought up with table manners very early ,they adore there table time for one on one attention . What is her routine during the day educate her ?? Are you taking her for short walks. What games do you play? What toys does she have to really chew on as she will have hit the horrid teaching stage. Will she happily play outside on her own or is she inside all the time reliant on you to amuse her? Personally i have never been a fan of grabbing the mouth on a teething puppy & the chances off you being able to do this on a Bully head & with a breed that has a high pain tolerance & requiring you to bend down to her won't end with the result you want . If she enjoys food then use that for training ,fill your pockets with treats ,get her to think more instead of her setting the rules ,make her work for her rewards .Enrol in an obedience club to get her out & about & working with other dogs . Also consider a bored pup can be a naughty pup & being told off is still a rewarding experince . Is the time out because she was being naughty or is the time out simply a puppy time out to go sleep & have quiet time

Yep you get what you pay for & don't forget to factor in the additional blades,scissors & nail clippers. My suggestion is before you think you may want to groom do your homework,whilst it is easy to sell the gear many people think its easier than it looks & whilst many want to save money it doesn't awlays end yup that way. So without knowing your dog i would ask this . How easy is your dog to brush ?? Does dog stand still & let you brush through & lift the legs etc etc. Do you brush on a table ?

Next Saturday is the Schnauzer club of Victoria's Champ show which would be a great starting point . I would suggest if possible to go down and watch,i will add now that it isn't easy to talk to the breeders as they are showing & often like to watch as theer are only two club shows each year & dogs form the east often attend so its also a show where breeders can see new stock but most will be more than happy to give your there cards with details on . Just simply ask if there able to have a chat or if not a card so you can phone/email at a better time . Mini litters are generally sold before there born ,we rarely advertise (another state) so you would need to conatct the breeders your happy with & wait ,it will also depend if your after a certain sex & colour ,if a certain colour not all breeders bred varying colours SCHNAUZER CLUB OF VICTORIA INC CHAMPIONSHIP SHOW BULLA EXHIBITION CENTRE, UNITING LANE, BULLA Start time is 10.30.

The breeder should be giving the new owner a diet sheet & they should be discussing the feeding routine with them first & foremost after all they now there own puppies & what they thrive on .The breeder should also be informing the new owners about the dos & don'ts that are benefical to the breed (whether its a Std or Mini) Whilst raw is great please be aware that many breeders guarantee there puppies on the diet feed for the first 12 months unless a diet change is discussed. if its a Mini then feeding raw needs to be more thought out .

I gather the diet change is due to the health issue with the OP puppy & needing to . Teething can affect eating & reality is some just dislike some products . It comes down to what you want to feed long term & obviously playing the diet game to suit. All my puppies are feed meat,fish,eggs ,yoghurt etc etc,maybe discuss with your vet about adding some variety BUT if you only wish to ever feed dry then stick with that plan . I guess also from the research you have done & links suggested look at what they feed & suggest

We have done the hair roller,toilet roll & taping to leg tail with our Greys but we found once past a certain point it was just to damaged .In mild cases it does work .

I don't stop my dogs from walking out infront of me on general walks & i won't allow mine to pace & if they do they get a jig up . I actually hate my dogs walking ny my side but they do now that if the have to they must but i do encourage my babies to venture out front .If would certainly encourage a more get up & go attitude even on wlaks because pacing is your worst nightmare & many people have no idea because the dogs can run just as fast in a pace . Yes the having fun in the ring is what i mean . As for the time you are taking to move off i wouldn't call that long when you have a baby ,when you stack her do you leave the lead tight under her ear or do something else.All mine are stacked with ;lead still under ear so when i get up to move the lead is ready unless with the babies its shifted in the stack . I always fix the lead whilst there stacked ,my old boy likes to shack so he has been taught to shake before we move as it become a game with him shaking half way out With a pacing dog i would not start walking off & you don't need to ,yes some run off to fast but to slow is just as bad,when doing your circle that is the time to get the dog s attention ,when i circle i move off straight away so the motion isn't broken. What i would suggest if your girl is a pacer is not routine her change it around ,confusion is often the method used by handlers with pacers,watch the Newfoundlands/Saints being shown these breeds can be bad for it . The lack of training won't make an issue ,seriously you can over train babies & turn them sour ^ also train in bad habits,in day to day activities you can train many show things without it being a specific show routine.teaching to catch bait can help free stacks,if she likes to play ball that can be a free stack game ,i never train puppies show routine as its boring /repetitious & there minds zone out quickly but when done as a game the fun side catches on quicker . If she walks on a lead then she will run on a lead ,its just making the lead Fun. As for grooming don't be afraid that its to long .having owned long coat breeds for to many years what you train now makes life easier especially whilst there small.the except it easier now than later . Im not a believer of train each day but if i do stack train then its always in front of the mirror or reflective area so i can see what my youngsters are looking like,i groom with a mirror so its easy . It sounds like you have people who are giving you good advice so don't be afraid to keep asking .don't panic over how long it takes you unless you are totally screwing up & that would more be a case of losing the moment of being ready & your dog disconnecting ,from the minute you have the lead ready its all about the dog. Always ask for feedback & don't be afraid others to help most people will whether you like there advice is up to you but every bit is learning,video yourself but in the end your dog is a baby make it fun ,they grow up to quickly & you should have many years of showing ahead

Our Greyhound tail did not heal & the end died so we amputated about 3 inches & all was great after that ,she didn't get an infection but it simply wouldn't heal & when she did knock it it squirted like a hose ,her tip was just so fragile that the simpliest of taps meant it would bleed. Up to you i guess but i think i would go for the removal part sooner than later

For pacing you need to either bump her before you run so she goes off balance & has to gait but also be aware she may pace when you turn on your traingles/out/back. Having the lead under the ear or on top of the head & giving a soft tug before you run or squeaking a toy will help but you need to time it all so when you move off she works with it. Depends what you call to slow between the stack & the run ,many new people actually rush it & make mistakes before they think everyone else does it faster . From the stack to the run your main mission is to have the lead right,get the dogs attention ,line up with the judge & move off. I never run straight off after a stack with babies in particular i will walk in a circle to get there attention & settle then move off,i generally do this with my adults ,There is no point moving a pacing dog especially if you don't stop & get the gait going so slow down & take the time to get the dog willing to run . Jigging up is easy & with my babies i don't want them to be lifeless so i prefer to foster show attitude than stacking right or running right a bored dog isn't a show dog & you can create a stall puppy very quickly . I don't show train my babies ,i teach free baiting through play,lead training is walking & stacking is done when i groom .maybe when you go to your classes you need to ask them about how to encourage more zest to show ,she may also be over it at present . Springers are allowed to pace one of the few breeds but no one really allows it . When you take her for a social walk does she pace then ?? Pacing can also sometime mean there sore & made need a chiro or bowen . Showing isn'y about winning & to be honest that can be the biggest failure in handling skills when you want to achieve more than what your baby may be ready for,She will be hitting the fugglies now an age that often many breeds don't do as well at so its more about keeping them exposed but making it fun during this phase . When you run do you use a toy ,bait or anything & yes talking is a must babies need to now what you want & the voice is that tool ,a squeaky can also help at times or disinterest & don't be afraid to rev her up before running ,ie a whack on the bum (play whack) giddy up under the chin ,watch other breeds & see what people do ,use your lead like you would on a horse

Yep you have left your run very late phone around & go inspect & ask lots of questions

The Dachshund club of WA have there Champ show next Saturday 12 sept at the Dogswest Grounds from 10 am ,the next day is the Hound Club show . Go down & see the dogs ,if you buy east do your homework ,temp in the Std Smooths is very important & no there aren't many breeders in WA

We post all ours to Feather edge in victoria ,super service

just because the pups in your other litter where bigger doesn't mean the same applies to the next litter & as you say they where small born i gather the last pups where born bigger . Over feeding will not achieve results except pooping everywhere & not absorbing there food ,over feeding won't make them bigger . You simply need to feed to these pups . At that age we feed our small puppies meat,dry,fish,yoghurt etc etc .

Given your Springer is a show dog i would go with a colour & Collar that has less chance of ruining her neck coat .I would be buying a very thin rolled leather collar if you want leather yo lower coat breakage

All sizes vary in nature. I owned a Std Smooth but handled all sizes for well over 20 yrs in the ring,did obedience & agility demos with the Dachshund Club & visited nursing homes . Back issues are a risk but keeping the dog fit & good weight goes a long way . Parents should be PRA tested .Epilepsy has been an issue in Std Longs . The Std Longs have the most easy going nature as there more like Gundogs (they where created by crossing with the Field Spaniel ) Std Smooths tend to be more a one person dog & devoted to that human . The Wires should be the clowns of the Dachie world . Great dogs ,can be barkers as that is a requirement of there job but shouldn't be an excuse to just bark. As to spinal issue i now of more issues with the Minis

2 is company 3 is a crowd. Your Shiba is giving you the warnings signs so you need to change the routine . Your Shiba may enjoy a short play session but for the rest of the time separating is the safest option her not only for the Poodle but your dog . Your dog shouldn't hurt your baby if your supervising correctly. I guess the biggest issue will be what the plans are for the new house arrangements whether the Shiba will still be part of the household or not ,its unfortunate that the dogs are going through such major changes that also include a baby . Your shiba needs some normality back in its life a short walk is better than no walk after all life is boring sitting outside & no humans come to visit or pay attention . Taking baby for a walk in the stroller with Keiko will help her see the new human whilst onleash . I wouldn't say your dog is being aggressive because if it truly wanted to hurt the Poodle it could have ,it has shown great restraint by the sounds of it but no one is reading the signs or adjusting the arrangements ,you have had the warning signs now everyone needs to give the dogs the time they need. I gather the Poodle doesn't go for walks either ??

.Generally hand raises puppies are very human orientated so teaching them independence is often far more important ,certainly the one offs or hand raised puppies we have had are wonderful around people,this doesn't mean you have to do much different just be cautious in what you encourage now whilst cute won't be later on & pup doesn't have mum to tell off so your are its "teacher" Big or small there all the same just the noise is louder . Vary the toys for enrichment ,make the toys be more for thinking & mental use than reliant on you to play with it all the time ,puppy needs to learn to be able to cope on its own as often hand raised puppies can be very clingy through no fault of there own .For some breeds it can mean a greater attachment to one person so allowing safe people to see puppy is good ,if your having visitors around & there the right people to interact with puppy let them