Dogsfevr

I had a a Dog who went down in his back ,a dye run was done and surgery performed It took near 9 months for him to walk again with constant physio,mum had an awesome boss ho allowed the dog to go to work due to having to toilet him etc .It was hard work and full time commitment until he passed. We actually didn't authorise surgery but it was done. Do we regret the after care no ,would I do it again never Our biggest mistake not waiting ,do not be made to feel guilty or rushed,ask lots of questions and expect them to be answered in laymans terms and If need be take a nutrul friend to hear the good and bad The reality is could spend $$$$$ for no outcome or a dog that needs a cart

My dogs are more active than yours & fly often i fly out generally on the early bird flights .I just get up early & they get to toilet,what you need to remember is there is limited water in the crate ,they have to lodged 120/90(varies from airports) mins prior to the flight once lodged you have no contact with the dog so if it drinks alot will not be able to toilet & being confined a crate means if the dog is over heated it can't move about to get comfy ,the enclosed crates now used do get warmer as well.Also it can take up to an hr for the dog to get off it flight at the other end so you don't need a thirsty dog . Feeding is a big no no you have a breed prone to bloat you need to minimize the risk factors when flying . I would simply concentrate on shutting the crate door & even making the dog sleep in it over night . What you need to remember is a 2 hr flight ends up being a near 5 hr crate time .

My dogs are frequent flyers ,I always pick flights that is suited to the dogs weather wise ,I wouldn't bother with the park , if your plan is to wear the dog out it won't make any difference except thirsty ,your dog needs to have ideally toileted at home and then loaded cool and calm not over heated and thirsty or have food in its tummy I never ever leave collars on to risky to get caught if they hit turbelance and no toys or chews your dog should have minimal risks whilst crated ,if act airlines generally will say no to toys aw a risks , The crate door should be sparky tied by the staff or do it yourself ,I tape info on the crate and remove Not sure what size your dog is ,I hire crates for my guys because the crates are to large and annoying at the other end ,I will take fold up crates as excess luggage .

Yep Jap chin cross is what he looks like,I agree get a belly band ,some toys breeds can be terrible piddlers so the sooner you address this the better . Personally i would get a puppy pen so if you want to confine at times you can & he can still be visual to you ,

Most of them buy from faebook pages that sell show suits there is one in Tassie that does. Ask fellow juniors in Tassie where they buy from & many juniors will sell suits once they outgrow them. Not sure if your on FB but you could ask the the junior handler page for Tasmania

We use hydrogen peroxide as well on yeasty feet with great success but like everything you need to access each dog and its issues

Find more interesting toys ,Kongs aren't for every pup nor are pig ears & the likes .Remember the back yard is there domain ,if it isn't fun they will find there own amusement & don't be so "routined" the pup has no fun or joy .They will chew things so put them away just like having a toddler first walking ,if its in there reach its a free for all . Mind you our pups aren't big chewers because we arent so routined ,there toys are soft teddies & things that play games with them & make sole life more fun . Also keep in mind im sure some dogs thrive on the reaction they get from being naughty ,i say this in the sense that touch more direction can make a dog disconnect from what is fun & they get a bigger thrill from being told off

all our Schnauzers are bathed in heads or shoulders or selsum blue & we recommend it to our puppy owners,we have no skin issues but find this product great . We trim poodle feet & it does help greatly especially if the feet are staying moist as they often end up with tinea ,we tell our clients to use caniston or similar,even washing in white vinegar helps . Problem is if the ears are bad you must treat the feet as well otherwise the cycle never ends & most vets do onot suggest treating the feet

We only all worm now ,never had the need to flea treat & no longer heartworm ,after weighing up the risks & always heartworming we no longer do . Obviously area plays a factor . Your breeder should have advised what they suggest . Be aware vets will sell what products they often get support . There is no need to flea/tick treat if you have no issues & prevention shouldn;t always be a factor . I show my dogs & there not treated ,if i have to for any reason which is generally because im going out of state to a high risk area then i will but i don't just do because & on a baby i would not be rushing out to apply stuff

I think she needs to do more research on what she wants ,westies & Cockers are like chalk & cheese. If laid back & easily to train is a must a Westie can fit that but they are a terrier & a typical Westie is a spunk ,trainable but require more effort ,laid back ones do exist but pick your breeder wisely ,you want a good coat . Cockers i see alot of & they vary alot from nutty,normal,over the top & owner obsessive & very vocal . Both the westie & Cocker will need regular trips to the groomer so have an on going expense . Cavaliers wont need the trip to the groomer but again need brushing & do shed alot but remember a Cavalier is a sporting spaniel & shouldn't be a lazy couch potato hence why they are so successful in obedience & agility All breeds should be good with kids with the normal care given .

It is easier to cut wet nails ,I always do my show dogs nails straight out Orr the bath otherwise dunk them in warm water first . I have used a dremel and found it either works or it doesn't , We use ferric chloride if we cut them seals immediately

So have you tried the medication option,you say you loathe it but hav you tried to see what happens.

A happy dog is one that is chilled when you get home,you know its happy in its world . My dogs are allowed to jump on me BUT only when i allow it because i want to be prepared when they do ,big dogs & sometimes the outfit i have on isnt for dog feet so i always encourage a time & place . For me i want a happy dog all day just not when i return home but we dont encourage crazy greetings & we live on an acre property with no neighbours close by ,when we lived in the burbs we where very aware of close neighbours & good neighbour dog manners

One of the first "it " items our litter of puppies get is a plastic bag ,why because it crackles,its light;its fun . We will fill a sock with plastic bags again because its fun ,plastic bags are used in the show ring because the sound is interesting for ear set in the ring . But no live baiting here unless you call the shopping items in those bags live bait & yes they love there fish fingers that come out of those bags

The real question should be why should my family own a dog ,After thinking this through carefully then proceed to the next step . I don't believe there is such a thing as no breed being suitable or not for a first timer .It just comes down to honesty within the family & common sense hence why pet shop puppies have become more popular as there is no questions asked about the family. What we have learnt over the last 10 yrs or so is the sense of entitlement to own a dog & being questioned about what they have to offer as a dog owner & suggesting said breed isnt what there after leads to people being offended & then venting how hard it is to get a dog. We work in the grooming world & we see what pet owners do every day,you have your great ones & you have the terrible ones & the worse offenders are those who are retired or have a non working family member .

If she by conformation is loaded in front you cant diet that off. Some vets i often wonder about we have a client who was almost in tears because the vet said there dog wasn't feed enough because it wasn't a good weight . This was a Jack Russel that was so long in loin it will never ever look filled out like a dog,we explained to them dogs structure will mean it will never be chubby & no amount of over feeding will solve the issue,We told them to go back to the vet & ask about the fact the dog is to long in loin & would that make it look lacking in weight,apparently there vet was taken back by this comment & had to admit yes & asked who told them that & they where smart enough to say well not you but a dog show person . Some dogs just arent meant to be "that figure" & no amount of diet or feeding will change it .

Comb wise get a combo one ,fine one half & slightly wider the other. If its a soft slicker no problems at all because it can still be handy to fluff out before combing

You need a good come and you need to comb the coat thoroughly ,also don't brush a dry coat spray bottle with water or you could buy one of the show products like reviva coat to place in spray It is going to take a for time if ever to get a decent coat back and you will have to deal with a lot of under coat before you get success (depending on how bad the coat is know) Keep combing through,when coat change season comes it will hopefully help. There is no short cut just good combing through

Its alpha order unless stated otherwise ,as to breeds just depends on whether people enter or not .

Do they want weekend or week nights

Breeders just don't pull pups out of hats so you need to put your name down with a breeder you like & wait .For many breeds 12 months wait time is nothing . Yes there will be breeders who will knock you back because of your youngster & to be honest we are such a breeder that will ask alot more questions when someone has a young baby & wants a puppy simply because its the right thing to do .Many have had pups returned because it was more work than they could cope with often at 12 months so breeders will often think very hard about the right home. One piece of advice though I personally see it as a positive as it means that I am currently only working 2 days a week (and will continue to work part time until my daughter starts school). When I am working my mother comes over to my house so the puppy will be spending virtually no time alone. All interactions while she is little would be heavily supervised. Your dog MUST spend time alone or you are setting yourself up for massive issues & this could be another reason you are being knocked back .Your dog will have to be left alone in its life & you need to set it up for success from a puppy ,I think you need to think about this aspect more & understand the issues that occur when a dog has never been left to cope in life when people go out

There is no protocol ,what ever you discussed is what you follow ,if your not sure then just do a follow up call and dont make it sucky or cheesy, don't do I now it's hectic yards yards ,breeders now there busy that's what we sign up for . Just keep it simple that .That pups could be viewed at the end of July after vacs and wanted to touch base on making a time

will the pup be vaccinated and microchipped at that age ,our puppies go after 8 weeks we don't microchip to nail 7/8 weeks

everyone gets hand me downs here ,replaced when required