Honest Opinions- Benefits Of Buying A Fur Kid From The Pound Vs Breede

[dee lee]

I've had both a bad rescue experience & wonderful one.

My bad experience was a terrible combination of not-so-good foster carer and non compatible dog.

Because of that I would never adopt directly from the pound & I'll stick to breed rescue or a purebred pup.

[persephone]

I think this is just it-- I don't want to roll the dice and take a chance when there are children and potentially, another dog, involved as well.

Then don't buy a pup, because there is no guarantee if how it will turn out when mature. If you want to know exactly what your dog will be like, get an adult that has been thoroughly assessed as a mature dog.

My advice for you is to get the pup you are waiting on, and forget getting another dog in the mean time. What's the rush? Every dog regardless if where it is bought from deserves its own time to be settled in to the family. So unless there are really good reasons why you need to get two dogs around the same time, don't go looking for two. Get your collie pup, and have fun with it socialising and training and having friend's dogs visit. Once you've gotten to know your dog well, and it has matured, then decide what traits you want in a second dog.

[Mystiqview]

My reasons for selecting a collie after owning terriers for many years:

- interest in competition, specifically agility and junior handler

-wanting a larger sized dog who will give voice if unfamiliar people on property and be a visual deterrent

-calm disposition known to be good with children

-generally less restless than other herding breeds, and generally less nippy

- love the look of the dog, the long muzzle really works for me.

With the two bolded statements, I would be looking at a breeder who competes in the discipline you are looking to enter. They (SHOULD) know temperament, and be able to assist and BE HONEST in what the temperament is like for each individual puppy. With a registered breeder, you SHOULD again be able to determine any genetic health testing, hip/elbow scoring etc which is important for a competition home. A show dog who has not cut the grade, may have done so because it's structure or temperament is not suited for the discipline. By temperament, it can simply be not enough up and go or drive, or too easily distracted. Just because it has not made the show grade, will automatically make it suitable for a sporting discipline either. It could be also, the litter mate was just that little bit better, and the breeder cannot keep both. In which case, you could be lucky.

I find it interesting looking through the BC ads on DOL and elsewhere, some of the comments made by breeders claiming their dogs are "top of their field, or "excellent conformation" etc. If the breeder does not now or never before stepped foot in the competitive arena, how would they know what is required for the basic discipline they are proclaiming their animals excel in? I can understand those breeders who have competed in their chosen field and maybe taking a break from it for a multitude of reasons. You would hope to think, they would have learnt a thing or two and know what they are talking about.

If you are looking for an agility dog, I believe it is more important to have the correct structure than what is required for the show ring. Reason being, you are putting extra strain on the animal's joints and ligaments and it is more important they are sound to prevent injury. Showing, does not require the same physical stresses as agility does.

Unfortunately with a rescue/pound animal, you cannot determine what the health of the line/parents etc are and whether you are an increased risk of injury through poor structure.

For competition again, I would be looking at a puppy rather than a juvenile. You then start with a blank slate and you can train the traits YOU want/need. You do not have to waste time untraining bad traits through poor socialisation/previous ownership before training the good traits you are looking for/need.

Regardless of your decision, thorough research of lines and health issues I believe is important. While I would like to think 99% of breeders are ethical. We know that is not the case, and sometimes "Murphy" jumps on your shoulder influencing a bad decision and possibly a bad breeder (whether they be registered or other).

[Rascalmyshadow]

Fostering for a reputable rescue group while waiting for your puppy would be a great way to find your perfect dog without having to commit if it isn't suitable.

Almost all of the dogs we have rescued in the past have been given up because they were incompatible with their owners. We have matched them up to suitable homes and so far only one didn't work out, he went on to another home and fitted in beautifully. I personally think if you have the time and patience it is more rewarding seeing progress in a rescue dog than a purchased puppy.

It is also far from true that you will get a perfectly suitable dog just because it comes from a registered breeder.

I had my dream dog PTS about 18 months ago it was one of the hardest decisions I have ever had to make. We did all our research,went to a good breeder,paid over $1000, took her to training etc did as much as we could to try and socialise her but even after all that her temperament was so bad in the end after 6 1/2 years we couldn't manage her any longer and due to her fear aggression she couldn't be rehomed.

After having such a traumatic experience we decided to go back to owning mutts, I still have 1old purebred poodle but the younger 3 are all cross breeds and they all have wonderful temperaments.

[tdierikx]

Rascalmyshadow - you can't really tar all pedigreed dogs with the same brush as the one that didn't work out for you... just like all mutts aren't going to be suitable for all people either. The reality is that you are more likely to get a dog with the traits you are wanting from a breeder who breeds for those traits and can give a certain amount of guarantee of same due to knowing their lines well.

My personal preference is for mutts also - but if I were looking for predictability, I'd be heading for a well bred pedigreed dog every time.

Oh - and how much a pup is bought for is not necessarily an indicator of how "good" it is going to be for your circumstances...

I'm a big believer in how we raise our dogs as a huge part of how they turn out... and I'm not so sure about a dog being born "bad" or "broken"... WE have the ability to influence a lot of things about our dogs' health and temperament as owners, and laying "blame" for things that haven't turned out shouldn't automatically go to the breeder of the dog.

T.

[Steve]

With 5 kids I wouldn't touch a pound dog with a barge pole unless it came through a reputable rescue where its lived in someone's home and has been tested and assessed over a fair period and even then I personally would only bring in a pup .One pup for at least a year then consider a second.

Some people can live with any dog but Ive got 8 kids and I know I cant - dont want to . I want a clean slate which can learn my house rules and bond with my kids and them with it as a baby and grow old with me.

As a breeder I will never sell 2 pups at the same time to the same family.

I would wait to get your pup then if you still feel the same in a year consider a second.

[Rascalmyshadow]

I wasn't implying all pedigrees are bad but just that there is no guarantee either way. I work with dogs every day, I have owned a few pedigrees and we have rehomed a lot of rescues over the years. I also have two kids and most weekends have between 5 - 7 kids at the house so far the mutts have been the best with the kids. I also found my purebreds cost me a lot more in vet bills.

I think one of each is the best way to go.

I don't mean to offend any breeders but I am yet to see the advantages of spending a fortune on a pedigree.

[tdierikx]

Really though, it's not about how much a dog costs as a determinating factor of it's "worthiness" to be a great pet. A lot of poorly bred animals in pet shops carry a price tag much higher than a well bred pedigree... but they come with a fancy name, so they must be special, right?

As for the vet bills accrued for a pedigreed dog as opposed to a mutt - people actually tend to be more likely to take their pedigreed dog to the vet for minor ailments than they are for a mutt with the same ailment...

You will never get a 100% guarantee of perfect health or perfect temperament when buying a pup/dog of any breed or mix... but you're more likely to get a better foundation for that good health and/or temperament with a pedigreed dog. Don't forget that owners also play a big role in establishing and maintaining both the physical and mental health of their dog.

T.

[Horsegal98]

Money doesn't really have much, if any, motivation in my decision making process. I don't think you can any more name a price for a 'perfect' dog any more than you could on your partner or children. If I thought the best fit for our family was a $400 rescue bitza I wouldn't be snobbish, nor would I hesitate to spend $2000 on a well bred, mains registered dog.

That being said I think the $4000 'rare blue English staffys' are a complete rip off!

There have been many, many wonderful contributions to this thread. I will certainly spend time reflecting upon this!

The bad news is that the breeder's bitch still hasn't come in heat, so she has contacted me and said ETA March for pups and obviously from there a 12 week wait to get said pup home. Fingers crossed all goes well.

I know several people have commented on me to 'wanting to wait' for a pup. Fair enough comment, just wanting to rationalize it further. My thoughts were by getting an older juvenile or adult now, I wold have something to be able to start training and campaigning in my areas of interest straight away. Certainly with agility you can't start competing before 12 months, and I personally don't think you would want to expect too much from them before 18 months. Too much work too soon is just no good for a young dog's developing joints.

Edited December 27, 2012 by Horsegal98

[The Spotted Devil]

You can start agility foundation work with puppies of any age - much more important than jumps/weaves which we don't ask for until at least 12 months.

I waited 2 years for my Dalmatian. Same issues - specific breeder, bitch had a silent season, missed matings etc.

Tough to wait but THE best decision :) For a period my home was devoid of cats and dogs so I fostered kittens for a while. Really helped to keep the at bay.

[Mystiqview]

I wasn't implying all pedigrees are bad but just that there is no guarantee either way. I work with dogs every day, I have owned a few pedigrees and we have rehomed a lot of rescues over the years. I also have two kids and most weekends have between 5 - 7 kids at the house so far the mutts have been the best with the kids. I also found my purebreds cost me a lot more in vet bills.

I think one of each is the best way to go.

I don't mean to offend any breeders but I am yet to see the advantages of spending a fortune on a pedigree.

There are many on this forum who have also worked with a variety of dogs, worked in shelters/pounds and retrained rescue dogs.

I had a husky once from a back yard breeder. Damn good little dog. Was very obedient, did obedience (handler) competitions and demonstrations with her rather successfully. Great companion. That one dog cost me more in vet bills than a number of my past and current pedigrees combined. She had a rare immune disorder, and after a number of courses of failed steroid and other treatments, was put to sleep. Our first dobermann was a rescue from the neighbour's marriage breakdown. Purebred, not pedigree. That girl had no health issues until her old age where she had cancer. But 13 years from a dobe is still a damn good innings.

I have worked in pounds as an council officer. I have retrained a rescue border collie, which I put a solid 18 months retraining into, only to have him revert back to his Henny Penny, the sky is falling down through an incident at a local dog training facility.

Like many others here, I have bred a number of puppies over the years, and while 99% mine go as pets (as I prefer them to), some have gone onto sporting/working homes. A good breeder will match temperament of the puppy to the lifestyle of the family. I certainly will not sell the social butterfly to a non active family. Wrong combination!

Depends on where you go as to how much you pay for a pedigree. There are those in my breed as in probably every breed who want to rip off puppy buyers. It comes down to how much people are willing to pay. If they are willing to pay a highlight robbery for puppies, then some breeders will ask that money. There are others who charge a fair price for a quality puppy from happy, good temperament and healthy (and health tested) parents.

Your "rescue" may come from the same breeder or similar line which contains the same health issues as your example pedigree. It may have have the same health/temperament issues as another pup/juvenile from a BYB or registered breeder. It may be "cheaper" now, but still may be costing a lot more later on with the same or similar health issues. Mutts are not without their problems either. Cross two dogs who as a breed carry the same type of issues, there is a damn good chance you can produce those same issues in your cross bred.

If you are wanting a dog for a specific purpose (EG agility) then it really does come down to a number of specific factors and traits in order to be competitive in that field. Just having a good temperament may not be enough. If you just want a pet, the criteria may not be as stringent and a rescue may tick all the boxes.

The bad news is that the breeder's bitch still hasn't come in heat, so she has contacted me and said ETA March for pups and obviously from there a 12 week wait to get said pup home. Fingers crossed all goes well.

If you really like this bitch, the breeder, the line and know the issues from the line. I would wait. Although I would question the 12 week wait?? I would be trying to get your puppy at 8 weeks when they are normally allowed (as far as ANKC goes) to be getting the pup and socialising it and starting early toilet, focus and other basic foundation/manners training (play drive games, basic obedience - wait, come etc). Mains registered? Don't know if it is standard practice in that breed, but in Border Collies, most are sold on limit.

[OSoSwift]

My largest costs ahve been from non health tested, unregistered dogs.

I have spent money on both my unrego-d and rego'd dogs. Sometimes it has been due to accident, sometimes avoidable hereditary disease. I have dogs I have to spend money occassionally, however I know I will spend less and get my heart broken less if I buy a dog that is not a genetic lottery.

[Gertrude139]

I own a pedigree which I got as a pup and a rescue who is older.

Originally I wanted to get two pups at the same time and the breeder said they would not sell me two at the same time and recommended I wait 9 months before introducing another.

I decided for my second dog I would get an older one from a rescue which had him in care for a month and had been temp assessed etc. I love both of them equally and haven't had any problems with the one from rescue but;

I think for your set of requirements that going with a pedigree is the way to go, and probably a pup since you are waiting to do specific training with it and you may not be able to find a mature dog in your time frame which suits all your requirements.

I think you can get a rescue which will be fine with your children, I wouldn't recommend direct from the pound, but through a good rescue organisation you shouldn't have a problems with that.

To me the biggest risk you will be taking is the unknown genetic factors which may affect/prevent the sports you want to do.

From what you have said though, if it were me I wouldn't be getting a pup now. Seems like you have a great pup which will be coming to you early next year so I would be waiting for that one rather than trying to rush to get one settled in before it arrives. I would wait and see how it goes with the new one then maybe around the end of next year start to think about another one. Who knows by then you might have seen another breed that you would like to have a go at competing with rather than having two of the same breed. Or maybe you will decide that you definitely only want to compete with one and so rescue becomes a more viable option for your situation. And in the interim you could always look at fostering so that you have a dog around now.

Whatever you do though you need to feel that it is the right decision. Do not let others pressure you into making the decision they want rather than the one you feel most comfortable with.

Good luck!

[Sheridan]

I think the OP's probably been frightened away by now.

[minimax]

I think the OP's probably been frightened away by now.

Why? She posted this morning?

[Sheridan]

Really? Must have missed it among all the rescues are better/no purebreds are better posts.

[Rainers]

We foster Collies for Collie Rescue and I can tell you that most of them do not have many issues and there is no 'risk' as they are fostered for a number of weeks before rehoming to the right home.

In fact my most recent Collie boy was a foster failure as I couldn't let him go, and he is the most beautiful dog whose only issue is a dislike of tiled floors! Collies are such an easy breed in general that *most* have been easy to rehome with no serious issues.

[OSoSwift]

OOOH maybe contact Rainers, sounds like the perfect person to speak to regarding a rescue and the breed you would like.

Oh and interestingly the original question was asking honest opinions regarding getting a poundy, rescue or dog from a breeder for the OP's particular situation, so are you suprised there are posts relating to which options people think are best?????????????

[~Anne~]

Nothing in life is certain. You might buy a purebred from a great breeder and it might end in disaster. You might buy a dog that appears purebred from a rescue, or a dog of unknown breed, and it ends in disaster. Young, old or in between there are no guarantees. However, if I was a gambler I'd place my safest bet on buying a young or older dog from a breeder if I wanted something as bombproof as I could hope for. At least you will have some background of behaviour and personality ..... Or I'd buy a pug from any source. I'm yet to see a human aggressive pug regardless of how well, or how poorly bred it is.

Edited December 28, 2012 by ~Anne~

[Gertrude139]

Really? Must have missed it among all the rescues are better/no purebreds are better posts.

I had been following the thread then realised that most (not all) of the posts are as you have said above, which probably aren't helping the OP to feel good about either option.

Given that I was in a very similar decision making process at the end of last year and have now ended up with one pedigree and one rescue I thought I would share.

I feel for the OP, it is a hard decision and you always want to make the 'right' decision.